Torquing rear axle nut question
 

Just pulled my axles for new boots on my 89. Came off super easy. I had a local axle shop clean and put boots I supplied on. Cv joints checked out fine in great shape. Axles are original, believe boots may have been done once before. 85k miles.

Anyway I reinstalled the axles with all new bolts and nuts. Thread chased the flange holes, cleaned everything up. And torqued those to 61.

On the axle bolts. I torqe to about 200 ft lbs in the air then dropped the car (using wife helpe to stand on brakes during both torque sequences) and torqued to 340.

Question: torquing on ground is ok?

Also could not find copper anti seize locally so used nickel. Read a bunch and believe this is ok (used on axle splines) tell me I don't have to remove :-)

I will recheck all in 100 miles.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437147285.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1437147304.jpg

That's the way I did it 10 years ago.
Nickel is better than copper, its what I use on the studs on the turbo.

How do you like those jackstands?

LOVE them. I bought them originally for my RS. I hate crawling under cars and with these I feel really, really safe. Easy to jack car up, put jack stand on the right mount (this carrera has the jack points on the chassis with holes in them), there is a pin that sort of locks the car to the stand. They aren't cheap, but ... I like them a lot. The only negatives: A bit big and bulky, and some jobs you wish they would go higher. You can get a higher mount plate, mine are low profile for my RS. I also have an adapter to use with BMW lift points. For fronts I use an adjustable stand with a hockey puck. With the jackpoints it makes is upper easy to get on 4 stands w/o using the engine case to jack the car. Jack one rear side, place front stand, then rear stand, then do same on other side, and you're up on 4 stands.