Rubber Door Seal Installation

[time260]

Does anyone know the best way to install a rubber door seal, one that wraps around the cavity on the body. Which is best glue to use, preparation, and procedure to make it last? Thanks.

[Super_Dave_D]

Black 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive is tough to beat. Its available at most all auto stores.

[carnutzzz]

I didn't use any adhesive. Fits real snug. Not like it can fly off while going down the road!

Try it without adhesive first so you can test fit, then see what you think...

[haycait911]

Originally posted by carnutzzz
I didn't use any adhesive. Fits real snug. Not like it can fly off while going down the road!

Try it without adhesive first so you can test fit, then see what you think...

ditto, if you can possibly manage without adhesive, don't use it. or use only where needed. much less headache later. used none in mine. Don.

[Mookster]

use the black 3M weather strip glue. 2 tubes

The easiest way to install the door weatherstrips is to start in the corner (look at the weather strip there is a seam that starts in the corner) and go around.

Advise on the 3M glue:
1. Wear rubber gloves
2. Install a thin layer of glue on the installed portion of the weather strip and a thin layer on the car. The glue sticks to itself.
3. Remove the necessary trim pieces to install the strip properly
4. It is easier if one person holds the unistalled portion as the other installs the strip.
DO NOT GET THE GLUE ON ANYTHING.

It takes about an hour per side.

Good luck

[pojefferson]

THIS is the awesome power of this forum! 6 year after this post, I am just about to install a new rubber door seal in a 25 year old 911. Google search - "install Porsche 911 rubber door seal" - and "Voila" - this thread is at the top of the search results. Just amazing!!

[nilknarf]

I love it when these old DIY threads rise to the top... the info is always useful!

HarryD mentioned a great tip learned on his VW bus for weatherstripping: on a long continuous loop of weatherstripping, when possible, start with the most obvious positioning cue (like the corner seam mentioned above) and then go to the diametrically opposed corner... then install the rest- it prevents the rubber from "growing" as you progress around the opening. I used glue on my '66 (it wouldn't have occurred to me not to)... but I usually apply is a bit at a time to one surface (the door frame), position the rubber trim, then pull the rubber away to let it all dry a bit per the adhesive instructions- it's a little less messy and you don't use too much glue (it's easy to go overboard)

Curt

[porschenut]

Glue is absolutely unnecessary. Just push it into the channel. It will never come out unless you want it to.

[jjs3rd914]

Replaced 1974 911 door seals with OEM seals, not aftermarket seals. After digging out the old seals and cleaning out the gobs of old glue, installed the new seals with no glue. Fit perfect, seal perfect, never have they fallen out after 6 months of use. I would only use adhesive if for some reason they will not stay in in a few places.

In many cases aftermarket stuff is okay, but here the real deal are the real seals.

[dhrcr911s]

Had to glue mine in the 67. No way it would work without the glue in that car. Might be some inconsistencies within the seals and the cars that allow some to go naked.

[jeff-73.5T]

I test fitted using no glue 5 years ago with the 40 year old car. Door seals tight with no "wind" leaks/whistle. Was too lazy to apply the unnecessary glue afterward. Glad the PO didn't use any either.

[haycait911]

with a clean and glossy painted surface in the channel, glue is un-necessary. easy area to mask off, clean, and paint. a good brush works fine.

ditto on the usefulness of these threads. it's interesting to see my previous post on this thread over five years ago.

[tede3]

Hi,
Do the doors close properly without really slammimg it? I had it done by the upholsterer and it does not close without excessive force. He says it will settle after time.
Thanks in advance.

[wrxnofx]

Tede, I replaced the weatherstripping on my driver's door early in the season, and it's still a real PIA to close. It takes way more force than before. I can't tell you how many times I've closed the door and it doesn't latch fully, only to close it again and not have it latch fully. Usually takes me like 3 tries to get it to close. Totally annoying. I hope it settles.

Incidentally, I had to use glue at the bottom, left corner. Otherwise the weatherstripping kept slipping out at that location.

[tede3]

Hi,
Thanks for your reply.
I just talked to Harvey Weidman and he says this is normal as the old rubbers were thin but created wind noise. The newer ones are fatter but harder to close without windnoise.
I still hope they will settle as the doors really need extra oomph to close.

[Reifle]

The driver's side is getting a lot easier to shut with the new rubber. The passenger side not so - nobody gets in anymore... They just want to drive... my car!?

[haycait911]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

Tede, I replaced the weatherstripping on my driver's door early in the season, and it's still a real PIA to close. It takes way more force than before. I can't tell you how many times I've closed the door and it doesn't latch fully, only to close it again and not have it latch fully. Usually takes me like 3 tries to get it to close. Totally annoying. I hope it settles.

Incidentally, I had to use glue at the bottom, left corner. Otherwise the weatherstripping kept slipping out at that location.

when I run into a spot that seems 'short' of weatherstrip, usually a corner. I pull out a few feet in both directions and gently stretch it while laying it back in the groove to gain more slack where needed. it's not uncommon to have the whole seal in and out two or three times to get it layed in right. also, do it in a warm shop.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by haycait911

when I run into a spot that seems 'short' of weatherstrip, usually a corner. I pull out a few feet in both directions and gently stretch it while laying it back in the groove to gain more slack where needed. it's not uncommon to have the whole seal in and out two or three times to get it layed in right. also, do it in a warm shop.

I'll keep this in mind for when I do the passenger side next season. Thanks!

[Jp-oh]

I also agree to the invaluableness of these forums. Coming from a car with an obd2 scanner diagnosing issues was a simple plug-n-scan. But with the old-timey 911 it’s not really any harder; now all I do is pump some search terms into the google and click the pelican links that come up. Buh-Bam! Answer.

[Buckeye]

I just replaced my door seal this morning it pulled out easily and there was very little glue holding it in. I took the recommendation and did not use glue. It fits snugly in the slot and I don't think it will come out until I need to replace it again. A 15 minute job.