Dang it, yet another hassle.
 

Couple of weeks ago, my driver's side passenger window switch didn't lower the window. I reached over and used the switch on the passenger side to put the window down. Last night, got in the car, and tried to lower the driver window. No go. Passenger window - no go. Fuse was blown. Now I'm thinking that one of those switches is bad. So I'll ask first and order later - replace just one switch, or just go for broken and replace all three?

I'd check wiring first... jumper to make sure the window motors aren't shot. If they jumper and you can isolate it to the switches and not an electrical short then spend the money. Otherwise it can be pricey going item by item through a system replacing parts to find the culprit.

If you think the switches are original, replace all 3.

Guessing passenger window blew the fuse.

I like OhHaha's thoughts but not quite yet.

Given the age of the car (and associated connection integrity) , there is value in pulling out the switches, wires intact with battery disconnected.

Disconnect the five or so old school wire connections on each switch and re-connect. Give them an in and out rub a few times and test the system after the procedure.

I have done this on my car but I am not certain that just pulling the switches out allows you to just slide them right back in with ease. There is a rubber boot that surrounds the switch. I remember doing this with the door panels off so back side fiddling is easier.

Read up on lubricating the window regulators. Low use passenger side especially. It's a fuse blower without a real hint of motor problems - although you would never guess.

Thanks, Pieholio. The windows do seem to not go down and up as fast as they did before, and after replacing the fuse, I was able to work both windows. I am guessing at least one switch is bad, because it didn't function, and then it did, aside from the fuse blowing.

If it's not the fuse, it's the relay.

If it's not the relay, you have to take apart the switches, clean all the contacts and at the same time I would check the actual motors are ok (they are pretty tough).

Did the same thing in my 79. First it was the fuse. Then the switch contacts, then the relay. It was fun going round and round but now it's DONE!

Thanks. I have to have one door apart to replace the trigger on the exterior handle. Might as well take both apart and lube up the entire regulator and guide system on both windows. I think the driver's side passenger window switch is bad, because that was the one on which I got no action and the others have never given me any hassle.

If the sliders are all gummed up, then the pass window motor may be over worked, causing the fuse to blow.

Also, as Bob pointed out, the contacts could easily be corroded/ loose/ etc causing the same thing.

It appears as though a little PM/repair work is in order. I appreciate all the info, gents.

If you separate the motor from the regulator, make sure you set up the window so the regulator actually rolls up the window up all the way.

(Ie re-position it in the correct spot). I started messing with the regulator, checked the motor and they were in the wrong spot and the window would only wind up half way.

Then it was grinding for a bit, and the fuse popped.

Man I hate power windows that need fixing.

Hook a battery up to the blue and blue/black wires that go to switch to test. Also check spring retainers they break off and cause window to go up slowly.

Excellent! I didn't know that, so I will check.