G50 Assembly. Adjuments and things to remember to do?
 

I've had my G50/00 dissasembled to shorten the clutchhouse and mainshaft, and i've bought a kit with all g50 seals and new syncrings for all the gears.
I'm almost done assembling it and i've only got the reverse gear and transmission nose left

Now to the questions: Can i do all the adjustments and calibrations my self without the special tools?

And thinking about the pinion and and differential, i've put back the same shims for the tensioning plate, i never took the four point bearing and main bearing of the pinion shaft and i'm using the same differential.
Do i need to recallibrate this?

And if i want to change the differential later do i need to open the whole transmission to change the tensioning plate shims? if thats the case i guess i'll get a new LSD right away.

WOW... G50 rebuilds are relatively rare compared to the 915.

I can't help but I wish you the best.

Thank you !
From what i've heard the g50 is a bit easier then the 915, but i haven't been able to find to much information about the G50, so that probably makes it worse again :p
I didn't realy need to change all the syncronizer rings, but i thougt i'd just do it while i was already at it.
I'll put up some pictures later :)

I've heard opposite, that the 915 is easier than the G50?

No experience in either, but have done other trans.

Post some pics! Best of luck and full props for having the guts to tackle it yourself!

The G50 is much more difficult than the 915. And the tools are more complicated.

I don't believe you need to do anything special on reassembly. I just followed the directions and re-assembled mine.

Maybe Peter Zimmerman can chime in if he's still around.

At least check the contact pattern on the ring gear with prussian blue. that will tell you if something is different. I would have looked at this before disassembly just to see where its at.

The ring and pinion will have a visual wear pattern without bluing it. That's how it has been running. Wouldn't hurt to check it now that it is back together.

You changed no shims or bearings do pinion froth should still be fine.

And LSD only alters the backlash and bearing preload on the ring gear. Only side cover needs to come off. Pinion depth should be unchanged. You can put the box back together and do LSD later.

Did you measure the loaded stack height on the synchros? Been lots if inferior out of spec replacement synchros floating around in recent times. Oem is best.

My dad told me to paint the pinion and ring blue actually :)
There visual wear on the ring (seems a bit of?) but the not the pinion.
No i didn't measure them, but i bought the syncronizer rings from pelicanparts. 1&2 gear rings are from Getrag and the rest of the rings are Rauch & spiegel.
I should be ok shouldn't i ?
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...c3&oe=564311CE

I got the transmission cheap from a crashed 911, and a crack in the bellhousing needed some welding.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...29&oe=565C7992
The transmission nose had two broken bolts in it that i had to drill out and a piece of the nose was broken of and had to be welded before drilling a new hole. https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...3e&oe=563E345C

I had to modify this puller to get the gears of the shafts.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...18&oe=5651B6FD
And i had to sacrifce this 41mm cup (or what ever it's called in english ? To be able to get the big nut at the rear end of the mainshaft of. (It was STUCK!!) https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...6b&oe=56590B77

Looks to me the contact is not centered,.....wonder what experts say.

Got help from my cousin shortening the transmission.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...14&oe=563CBBB7
Ready to put back together.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...cc&oe=5644247B
And where i am now.
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...35&oe=5642A2A6

Thats what i thought to Ganun.

What does the pattern look like on the other side of the teeth? That's the coast side in the picture if I am seeing it right.

I wouldn't personally use R&S synchros. Be sure to measure the loaded stack height on them with a feeler gauge if you decide to proceed. But as I said before, OEM is best.

Measure loaded stack height? can you please explain?
I guess i'll have to go with the R&S as i've already bought them.
I'll make sure to do more research before buying later on.
Thank you for helping Matt you are very helpful!

By the way, on the other side of the ring teeth the whole side is shiny and it seems like it's very even.

By measuring stack height do you mean measuring ring wear? I did measure my old rings to see if i should throw them away or not. They are stil good so i'm keeping them as spares. https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...f3&oe=5646D88D
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...d3&oe=5657D626

Yes. That is what you measure.

Your r/p set up sounds ok.

Yes. That is what you measure.

Your r/p set up sounds ok.