1972 911T Rust Question
 

After 3 years of borderline stalking this sweetie is at the house. 1972 911T....While a full restoration is in its future I am planning to refurbish and enjoy for the next few years. The only rust through it has is pictured below.... stemming from shot boot rubber, the a bit of the front pan and some of the top of the front cross member is rotted away on the passenger side. I have dug out the rust and treated it. The inside of the cross member is solid other than what you see and the bottom is solid all across. My question... Is it necessary to fix what you see here to drive and enjoy? No racing just driving for fun.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438270030.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438270300.jpg

Nice car love the color!! Hard to tell from pic but maybe you could grind it down,treat it and spray some good 2 part epoxy primer over it until you start the restoration.

+1 but i wouldn't use a grinder..

Try a wire wheel for rust removal and for the rest use naval jelly or the new rust dissolvers available.

If you don't get it all it will return. I usually bead blast but that is messy. Then do as above and use a 2 part catalyzed epoxy primer then WURTH Seam Sealer and then match paint over this and you're good to race!

I should have said remove rust with a flap disk or synthetic pad. I like to use ppg dx579 followed by dx520 for rust when I can't sandblast something,it converts rust and leaves a good base to go over with a 2 part epoxy primer. Really nice car you should be a happy man!

Thanks for the comments and advice. I am a happy boy... having watched my 356C leave the house as a 16 year old, it's been a long time getting back to porsche ownership. I was very lucky to find this jewel.

So, does anyone think this is unsafe/unwise to drive with this hole in the cross structure?

No look pretty solid for 43 years old pan but a pict under the pan would give a better vue for rust problem.

It's no big deal (from what you show).

If you live near Philadelphia bring it by and i'll repair it with weld.

Here's the underside.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1438345455.jpg

The problem with this area is that looks can be very deceiving. I've had cars that 'looked' just fine in the same area in your last photo. However, a probe with a pick or screwdriver reveals little to no solid metal underneath the undercoating. One time on a buddy's car, we were probing around the tank support area and tapping some spots with a hammer. We hear this loud "THWACK" and we're going "WTF?!" - turns out an 8lb chunk of fiberglass resin had fallen out the bottom of the car. Yes, someone had filled the pan/tank support channel with resin instead of fixing the problem. There was not much metal underneath, so eventually it just fell out.

This is one that's almost impossible to really correctly advise over the internet. The pan needs to be carefully evaluated in-person. Magnets, picks/screwdrivers, flashlights etc are your friend. What you've photographed might be the extent of it, in which case it is fine to drive. Or, it might be the tip of the iceberg and the car could be unsafe to drive. I've gone through this on a LOT of 911s, and usually there is indeed more corrosion than meets the eye here.

Good luck.

Thanks dtw.

That is solid metal.

I'd bet if you wack that area with a nylon or any hammer it is solid.

Those holes look like they were intentionally made to drain h2o.:eek:

I think you are in fine shape to drive for a while.

On a side note, I used a scaler for the first time in my life the other day. Folks have talked of it in the paint and bodywork forum as good for removing old under-body gravel protection before restoration.

It was awesome. Just a side note.

Search results for: 'scaler'

bob was that an air powered scaler or electric, i cannot find an electric one

On a delicate area determining rust a scaler is too rough. Use a wire wheel to start