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People of Earth,

I thought "Project 7R" was in the books, but I may have been a bit naive regarding the time it would take to fine tune the setup. 7R is of course referring to my rear wheel project with special 49mm offset. First and foremost, I really like the look of the wheel on the skinny flare. I wasn't sure about the style with the paddles so near to the rim, but I gotta say I love the final look.



It's sort of my punk homage to the 911R or skinny flare cars from the late 60s that needed a different wheel in back in order to run a wider tire. Of course you would see like a flat 6 Fuchs and a minilite combo typically, but I thought it would be fun to sort of 70's it up. So I wanted to run my cookie in front and a Fuchs wheel in back. I might be the only one who gets it but I'm only doing it for one reason. Resale. Of course I'm kidding - I'm doing it for me!



The Pirelli Trofeo R look amazing of course.



Going this wide on a skinny flare is illegal in some countries!



It's definitely given the car less of a classy look and more of an aggressive mean look. I like both and it shouldn't be too much trouble to switch back to my 16" Fuchs when I get the whim.

I had some trouble painting the rear wheels. In hindsight I should of had them powdercoated, but I can't get a competent tire mounting guy in Vegas. The mess up the finish or they can't balance the wheel.

I scuffed up the finish and laid some gloss black rattle can. Something bad happened because I got wrinkles everywhere. Then I had the bright idea of pulling off the recent rattle can paint with aircraft remover. There was a thick plastic clearcoat over the wheels which the stripper removed in some places and had trouble in others.

I had to take the rear wheels down to bare aluminum and then respray. Gloss black is just a massively hard color to spray. I had to do several coats and then wet sand in between to get the orange peel out. I still need a lot of touch up and I'll probably take some polishing compound to them. Doing all that sanding really makes you hate the Fuchs. SO many little curves and edges. ow my fingers...

I actually really like the gloss black look too. It's the best way to catch light and accentuate the shape of the wheel while still having a black wheel.

As for the white lettering, I decided to do this a few months ago, but definitely was amused over the recent "white lettering" thread on this forum. I thought about starting the same exact thread before that one appeared and then I thought to myself: I don't care. I don't care if anyone else likes it or not. I like it!



I always laugh when I see people writing online "Stock is the best! My car is 100% stock. Resale resale resale!" then you see their car and there are H4s, spoilers, different mirrors, different seats, wevo shifter, tint, wider wheels, different tires, different shocks, different intake or ignition..but oh the car is stock.

Come on man. And even mentioning the word 'resale' is like admitting defeat to me. That means you are going through life being afraid to do what you like because you are always worried about resale. I don't get that thought process. I guess I don't get cars as an investment really. I don't have a garage full of rare cars so I'm not in that world.

Anywho, rant over. I also wanted to document my caliper / spacer / 7R issue. So fitment continues and I realize that there are millimeters of clearance at play. I thought I was ready to go and got my tires in the perfect spot; low and tucked, but I went to roll the car out of the garage and it wouldn't move. not in gear, e-brake off. Oh-oh!

Calipers touching! what! But people say you can run much less spacers than I am? what am I missing? Are rear calipers on SWB cars tiny? My midyear calipers are not huge by any means.

I had painted my calipers with enamel. I took a dremmel and shaved the edges of the caliper off. Just ever so slightly, removing the enamel in that area and smoothing out a ridge. Then I added another 2mm spacer. So now I'm at 20mm spacer to clear the rear caliper. It's not Ideal. I found 18mm to be the best for my setup. Clears oil lines, gives plenty of clearance for the fender...but doesn't clear caliper! gah!

I was thankful I had the Elephant spacer tuner kit. That let me play around and configure the exact placement down to 1mm. It's almost like a tool that could be removed later and a single exact spacer made for the application. I guess no harm in running shims. I had picked up the elephant racing 10mm rear spacer. What a work of art this thing is:



As expected it's extremely lightweight, again I hated to hide this behind my wheel. So now my setup is such like they have on the spacer section of the ER website. Picture a sandwich. A 5mm shim, the 10mm spacer, 2X 2mm spacers and the 1mm spacer. Again, I'll try to get back to 18mm depending on what I can do with my caliper. The 7R project, like so many other Porsche projects has turned into quite an expensive outlay..more than I wanted for a wheel change out.


I drove to CC like that and despite changing out all the studs, using spacers, and new wheels, the car was vibration free and I only had one rubbing issue. The front left again. The 25mm spacers I'm running up there are about 5mm too thick. I'm going to have them machined like the ER spacers, with material removed for lightness. They are just cheap eBay spacers.

Overall, project was a semi success. More hours of fine tuning to go, but overall I'm very happy with the ride, grip and look.



Hope you have a great week!

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Last edited by 75 911s; 10-25-2017 at 02:07 PM..
Old 08-28-2017, 09:57 AM
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I'm digging the build and your mindset about modding. Build the car you want and don't worry what others think. I like white cars with black wheels, but hey, I'm a little biased. Woot! Nicely done.
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:22 AM
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:58 AM
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Pedal Cluster Rebuild

P-car enthusiasts,

I did a little more dialing in of my wheels. I took off a 2mm shim on each side on the back so I'm down to 18mm spacers on the 7R replica fuchs in back. I also ordered 20mm spacers for the front. The 25mm I have on there are just too wide and I'm worried I'm going to cut the tire. I'm waiting on the new front spacers so I decided to do a project that I've been putting off since I bought the car: Pedal cluster rebuild. This is the bronze bushing kit from Pelican: The top right bushing is one I'll install later and goes at the throttle cable on the bell crank under the car.



I had already replaced the 3 bushings in the tunnel so I wanted to tidy up the front. I haven't been feeling anything loose or weird going on, but I was worried that if they were anything like the bushings I found in the tunnel, they would be close to disintegration.

Much to my surprise, they were in really good shape. I think someone replaced them at some point.



Those of you that have done this job know there are a couple of tricky points.

The first is the clutch cable pin/clip. It's a fragile piece of metal that is super easy to get off...if you know what it looks like ahead of time. I found this picture online ahead of time:



You can see that the clip pops down off the cable, then the pin simply slides out of the U shaped clutch cable bracket. No need to use anything but your fingers.

The hardest part of the whole rebuild, by far, is the roll pin removal and reinstall.

I was able to tap the old one out eventually, but it took me a long time. The best advice I can offer is to be patient and use a wood block and the right sized tap.



I took it all apart, removed the plastic bushings and gave it a quick rattle can makeover.



I used some heavy washers to spread the clutch spring to reinstall it



To get the new roll pin in the clutch pedal, I compressed it as much as possible with two locking pliers. Then I tapped it in using a vise, a brass punch and a small sledge.



Here you can see the finished install.



I had to disconnect the clutch at the trans to reconnect the clip at the cluster. Not too hard, just time consuming. I marked the cable before taking the adjustment bolts loose and then reconnected to the same marks.

All done:



All in all it took me three days, with a few hours each day. I pulled it out of the car on the first day and disassembled the cluster. On the second day I painted and then reassembled. On the third day I reinstalled. Probably about 7 or 8 hours total. Beer thirty?

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Old 09-01-2017, 02:08 PM
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My driving season is in full swing here in the Mojave desert. Temperatures in the 70s and clear deep blue skies.

As a result I've made it out to a biker bar out in the middle of nowhere a couple of times with some fellow p-cars.



The Pioneer Saloon is located in the town of Goodsprings, NV. Just off I-15 out of Jean.

There you can find a hearty breakfast and a mean sarsaparilla.



The only downer to the trip was a mad vibration at 70ish coming from the front end.

When I got back I decided to tackle the front end vibration issue. I'm not sure if I mentioned it before, but I've been fighting what I thought was a front wheel balancing issue for weeks.

I've had the tires re-balanced 3 times and finally decided to take it to my local Porsche specialist where they quickly diagnosed a bent rim!

I had originally powder-coated regular 23mm offset wheels in back, and the two cookie cutters for the front (15X6 36mm offset). Out of those 4 wheels I now only have one from that set due to swapping out the 49mm R offset rears and the one front bent one. Dealing with old cast aluminum wheels can be a pain.

Just my luck to pick the one original cookie from my set of 4 that was probably the impact wheel from the driver rear mystery accident...



I spent another day rattle can painting the new front wheel to sorta match the others. Now since I have re-powder coat everything, I might go for a deep bronze!

I went to a few more cars and coffee type events and much to my shagrin there was still vibration! Long story short - I had the front hubs off to put longer studs in and I did not tighten the hub nut enough. It needed just another 1/16th of a turn to shore up the bearings and make the hub rock solid.

During all of these front end shenanigans I was dealing with an extremely leaky area on the left valve cover. I could see that it was coming from the top of the engine and making it's way downtown, faces pass and I'm homebound and down to my valve covers. I've had the lower valve covers off half a dozen times or more and I feel like I have leaks down to a science.

By the way I DO Have a Nürburgring sticker on my car!



The last bolt on the valve cover is the lowest point, so oil makes it's way down, down down onto the ground at that point, but not before burning off a fair amount on the headers in a luxurious smoky scent of aircooled goodness!~

Top side: some fresh oil around one of the covers bolts and though there isn't oil along the back tin, I think it's just next to or hiding below the valve cover.



I got my long mirror and my even longer arms out and felt around and found the drain hose. Previously I had referred to this area as the "Pyramid" of death as a lot of people would diagnose the "Triangle" of death first (Breather, thermostat and oil pressure).

I had trouble finding the exact size hose to fit this drain hose so mine was not as snug as I would have liked. Of course the end at the firewall had fallen off and I had slightly overfilled my tank. When oil pukes out of the tank and into the airbox, it then drains out the back of the motor through this one way valve. It's also a serious air leak to the air box if the hose is off.

After remedying that oil leak, I installed some generic aluminum floor boards.



I used Jeff's favorite tool (Rivnuts) to mount my factory pedal stop. The floor-board doesn't come pre-drilled so you have to drill out 5 holes, one big one in the center to allow the pedal stop to pass through if you have it in all the way. WOT FTW

I sanded 'em down a bit and did a brushed aluminum look though it's hard to tell. They are pretty rough (not rennline) so it takes a bit of work to get them to come around. I'm OK with the rough look as my car is a (shhhh --- outlaw)

Sorry I had to use the "O" word.



Speaking of the "O" word, I wanted to show off my hole. And by that I mean the one hole I left in my modified (looks around.... outlaw) bumper by showing what I intended it for.

I mounted up my original tow hook and secured it with a tie wrap, even though it didn't feel like it was going anywhere anyway. hopefully I'll take out a few shins, pets or small children at the next car show (relax people--I put a red shop rag on it when I'm parked- I'm not a monster.)

Now with my Bruce Springsteen look I'm sure to offend anyone who was Born in the USA. Perhaps I can usurp the #1 question I get at car shows "What are the steam punk lines that run down the side of the car?" to "What is this thing that I just tripped over?" The future is bright.





I also did another attempt at a leakdown test. I've seen a couple ways to do this and one of them is filling the first gauge to 100 PSI. My leakdown gauge wont go that far, and even at about 30PSI it pegs the second leakdown needle beyond "Set". So I follow the instructions provided with the gauge which says to use about 15psi and get the gauge in "Set" zone and then connect. Based upon that, I have great results, but the pressure is minimal, so... I still don't feel I'm doing this right.

What's great for a snack, fits on your back, rolls over the neighbor's dog? It's log.



Finally, my dad was in town so I let him take the car 'round the block.

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Old 10-04-2017, 09:20 AM
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I always look forward to your updates not just because of your willingness to dig into just about any job but also because you seem to be enjoying the car as much as you can.

Keep up the good work!

cheers
Old 10-04-2017, 09:15 PM
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Zipper of destiny

Well folks (pause for collective baited breath) some exciting developments have transpired. It all started about 30-some-odd-years-ago when I hit puberty. In what would be known as "the giraffe years" I became upwardly mobile. That is to say, tall.

To give you an idea of what it takes for me to drive everyone's favorite sports car take a look at this highly detailed and accurate schematic I've created using a specialized Microsoft digital rendering program:



You'll notice that the figure (representing, of course, me) is perched at an angle somewhere between forty-five degrees and imminent spinal damage. What this all means is one of two things. Buy a Targa, or delete my sunroof.

Opting to keep the coupe and the sun off this delicious pallid complexion, I decided to sally fo....sally FO...SALLY FORTH with the sunroof subtraction.

If I'm being completely honest, I was just trying to clean the connections to my sunroof motor -because it was intermittent- and I ripped the zipper on accident, one thing led to another and...

OOOPS! Did I do that?



Drain tubes audi 5000s



This was interesting. This little clip holds the rear drain tubes on. It was wrapped in tape. I used a pair of pliers to work the tubes loose and remove the clip.



Not my best screwdriver OK! I have several you know.



Once you take the gearbox off in the back by the motor, you can gently pull out the long rails, the gear drive rods etc.



Stupid wire. Me reaching back with one hand pushing this wire around while holding the sunroof switch. Just one more way in which you wronged me Sunroof! Now pay for your sins!



The true point of no return, or as the french say " Le Femme Nikita"



I picked a spot close to the edge and just started cutting.



Casualties on the battle field.




What's done, cannot be undone. Well not without some serious trouble and a pocket full of American ca$hito. Stay tuned for part II. Thanks to this guy I'm trying the heat and pry method for the cassette, so far it's working pretty good. Shoulders of giants. Shoulders of giants.
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Old 10-10-2017, 05:16 PM
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That “Specialized Microsoft Digital rendering” need to go onto a t-shirt for sure...


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Old 10-10-2017, 06:18 PM
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Coffee is for closers

I'm here from downtown. I'm here from Mitch and Murry, and I'm here on a mission of mercy.

A - Always

B - Be

C - Cutting


It takes brass balls to sell real estate, and also to do a sunroofectomy.



Whether guts or stupidity, I decided to take a slow and surgical approach to removing the sunroof. I really wanted to try to take the cassette out in one piece. Would it be restored one day? Would I get extra kudos from the Porsche community? Would I lose my mind and in a ravenous rage and hack the cassette into tiny pieces trying to remove it? Perhaps it was a all just a challenge in patience and crisis management.

After searching high and low on this site and others, I came across very few detailed accounts of removing the cassette and sunroof. I figure, if you know what you are doing, you don't really need a tutorial. If you don't, you probably have no business removing a sunroof. Still, it helps to have experiences documented for those of us who are hard headed and like to do our own work. First off thanks to others who have documented sunroof deletes and to my friend Bob for some long distance tips.



Most of the pictures and descriptions I found were of the roof after the messy details were long bondo'd over. I get it. It's tough to show the sexy curve of the 911 roofline with harpoon scars.
So I'd like to give some gruesome details in how I did it. I'd split the process into a couple of days for your own sanity. Day 1- Prep. Day 2 - Cassette removal

PREP:

1. Power the sunroof open about 2 inches to reveal the leading edge of the panel headliner. (Goodnight sweet prince)
2. Pop the panel headliner off, it has snapping clips at the front edge, slide the headliner back into the sunroof cassette. Power the sunroof closed.
3. Remove the brackets and bolts that hold the panel in. The rear bracket has a tab that you must rotate toward the center of the car, then the metal top bracket slides toward the center and out. Then the back brackets are loose.
4. Slide the headliner back, attach it and lift and remove the panel out of the car.
5. Remove the aluminum wind guard and rails at the top of the cassette. (the long rails that extend into the cassette stay for now)
6. Remove the sun visors and coat hooks (They lift out a hair from the bottom and then push up and they slide off the metal hook underneath) Remove the drain tubes, there are 4 at each corner. The rear ones have a metal clip hidden under tape. Remove the clip first.
7. Optional Remove all the glass and seals, and the a and b pillar trim. (or use an xacto knife to cut around the seals if you aren't going to immediately respray the roof.)
8. Remove the headliner. It's glued in. A heat gun may help if you want to take it out in one piece to use as a pattern for Perlon or custom made headliner later.
9. Unhook the rear wiring harness from the sunroof motor, remove the two nuts and lock washers that hold it on, pull it out.
10. Remove the gear box next to the sunroof motor.
11. Now you can slide the long aluminum rails out along with the drive cables. Give it a gentle side to side wiggle, the gear rods will then slide out with the rear sunroof mount and rails. There's a small plastic guide pin that sticks through the cassette. You can push those through from the back of the cassette.
12. Remove the cable drive tubes from the back of the cassette (they can wiggle out)



Cassette removal:
1. Cut the 7 brackets that hold the sunroof cassette to the frame of the roof. I cut them at the closest point to the frame. Later you must bend them up to make clearance for the entire cassette to be removed. I used a Dremel with thin cutting wheel. I would recommend something a little more beefy. A 4 1/2 grinder is too heavy imho and the Dremel was too time consuming. Maybe an air tool with a cutoff wheel would be best. My compressor makes so much noise I opted for the Dremel as it's light and surgical.
2. Attach a ratchet strap to the metal part of the drivers seat and the other end to the back bracket nearest to the cassette housing. Ratchet to just take the slack out, do not over ratchet as you will obviously fold your roof and make a wrinkle. This is to put some downward pressure on the cassette so we can loosen the glue along the back.
3. Use a heat gun and a thin hacksaw blade to work the entire back edge of the cassette glue loose. Once the back edge and corners are loose, apply a bit more pressure on the downward ratchet. (Caution!)
4. Continue on each side near the back quarter windows. Heating and trying your best to loosen the glue that holds the back half of the cassette in. Space is tough here, but the idea is to get some of the glue off, and later, when we cut the front loose, we can heat this area again and pull the cassette slowly and carefully down by the back and it will literally peel the cassette from this area.
5. Tape off the outer roof around the sunroof to protect from the cutoff wheel. Cover the inside of the car with a blanket. Using your thin cutoff wheel, cut the ENTIRE perimeter of the roof skin where it meets the sunroof dish. The roof skin is folded over the dish in front and back. The back of the dish is folded over the main sunroof cross brace. This brace is part of the sunroof cassette. I cut from below and inside the car on my back as close to the edge as I could. The weight of the cassette will pop the edge down. That is how you know you've cut all the way through the first fold. You can grind a score line heating the metal. You can then slice with a razor blade and begin peeling back the piece that was formerly the roof skin that was folded over the bottom of the cassette brace. Obviously do not cut beyond the initial fold or you will be cutting into the top of the roof skin.
6. The cassette will be loose but in my case, was still held in by design as it slides under a lip at the front and two small lips around the B pillar. Slide it forward first to drop off the b pillar lips, then back to drop the front end down. The edges are sharp, be careful not to bump your interior anywhere as you extract it from the car.





Here are some detail pics of where I cut along the forward edge of the cassette: The rough edge will be ground down smooth in some way..not sure on the best approach there yet.



And here are some of the rear edge. It's a tricky edge and a pain to get to. Probably the hardest part of the whole job. Be careful not to wrinkle or bend your roofline during this process.





The assembly out.



Obligitory weigh in: 33lbs no headliner (very inaccurate shop scale..)



According to science, this has now added more hp and better handling to my car.



More to come in part III. Plug choice and edge clean up, headliner options, and first impressions.

Leave a comment if you want I enjoy reading what people's thoughts are.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:30 AM
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Well done, dood. Well done. You are a better man than me.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:12 PM
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Great post! You performed that sunroofectomy just like a professional dremeltologist!
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:20 AM
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ah! thats those kind of pictures I have indeed not found here on Pelican yet since I gahter knowledge for my own sunroof delet.

THANK YOU SIR !!
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Old 10-13-2017, 06:52 AM
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Very cool thread. Subscribed. Motivated to finish my green engine cover like you did, not my lame attempt. Kudos.
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busta Rib View Post
Well done, dood. Well done. You are a better man than me.
Thanks Busta! Your build thread is one of my favorites on here. Almost have gone widebody many a time because of your car! :-D

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knockdown View Post
Great post! You performed that sunroofectomy just like a professional dremeltologist!
AREA MAN ABUSES DREMEL
I did the first cut and I said "This is definitely the wrong tool" Then I kept going...grit? Hard headed-ness? Stupidity? Thriftiness?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flojo View Post
ah! thats those kind of pictures I have indeed not found here on Pelican yet since I gahter knowledge for my own sunroof delet.

THANK YOU SIR !!
Right?!? It was like no one wanted to show those hideous cuts around the perimeter. Until I did it I was like..."maybe this thing is just glued in...uhhh no."

Quote:
Originally Posted by kghjr View Post
Very cool thread. Subscribed. Motivated to finish my green engine cover like you did, not my lame attempt. Kudos.
It makes a huge difference. And on basic cars, it's not that hard to take the intake completely off. Clean everything up, put it back and viola, fresh engine bay. I'm the only air cooled locally that has a clean engine bay.

Can't wait to drop the motor and get my 2.7 RS Spec going. I may have to give up my "Boss Sheeper" crown at that point. :-P
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Old 10-13-2017, 08:45 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #254 (permalink)
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Awesome work.
Old 10-13-2017, 12:29 PM
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What's up guys. Thought I'd drop a little update for y'alls perusing pleasure.

The sunroof delete is trying desperately to proceed but I've run into a few hurdles.

Right off the bat, I ordered the Helion sunroof carbon fiber panel. Todd was responsive and the panel came cross country in the expected amount of time. It was packaged in double layered foam and a cardboard outer cover. First impressions is that it is a very nice part. Well made and pretty trick!



The panel has a 1/2" flange around the perimeter.



It fits in my sunroof hole very well.



There is about a 1/8" gap to fill with glue. I used some clamps to test fit.



The profile and edges seem correct. Seems like there will be minimal filler.



Another shot



I decided to also order the Fennlane steel panel. My gut is telling me to go steel but my first thought was to run this CF insert because I could gloss the CF and glue it in and drive without doing a glass out respray of the roof.

I no longer feel this way for two reasons:

1. I feel safer with steel and I think it's a better way to fill.

2. I don't want to run the cf insert as it doesn't look good imho. I think I might work on a track car, but not the look I'm going for.

So I decided to source a panel from Chris_Seven aka the Fennlane panel. Unfortunately, emails and PMs have failed. If anyone knows how to contact him, or has a used panel I'm a buyer.

I'm also in the market for a full roof off a non sunroof coupe if you can get it to my door in vegas for $600 :-)

So while I wait for a different option/plug for the sunroof hole, I decided to tackle a few quick jobs. The distributor and the shifter.

My distributor has had massive up and down play since I got the car. It's been running fine for the most part, but I definitely noticed times when the car felt much more powerful or when the timing just plain seemed off.



I'm sending it out to repair to Kurt at Partsklassic as I don't have a solid machine shop locally to ream the bushings and I thought this job might be left to a pro.

The shifter was totally fine but I wanted to take the boot off, powder-coat the base satin black and re-install it with the exposed base.



Bushings look good just massive globs of old black lube all over everything. I ended up sanding and polishing the housing, but I'm still going to have it powder-coated. I might also do the Seine shift gate.

Lastly, I deleted my antenna. I have the "manual" antenna in the driver's fender. I was told this couldn't be removed without taking the fender off. Well, with a bit of patience I was able to carefully extract it from the gap in the door and the fender.

I removed the nut and grommet at the outside. I used a long screwdriver to loosen the bolt at the bottom bracket (going in through the door gap). I fed the antenna wire through the body by the drivers kick panel so it was loose. I then pushed the antenna down into the fender and then carefully angled it so that it could be slid out of the gap between the door and the fender.



Hope you have a great weekend.
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Last edited by 75 911s; 10-28-2017 at 03:54 PM..
Old 10-28-2017, 03:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #256 (permalink)
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Check out my gun! This thing's a beaut!



Throw back to the days when a man could do work. Out in the garage. Away from the noise of children and wives. Even the picture on the box proclaims this truth! Look at that smile!



That smile says: "Saving fuel isn't magic. It takes effort! 'scuse me while I whip this TIMING GUN out, because I'm going to fix my car...and save fuel!" His other arm is cut off in the drawing, but I think we all know that it's griping a giant chrome gun that is ready and willing to spout off millions of photons at a hair trigger's notice!

Heroes don't always wear capes. Check out the manual that came with this thing. Finally instructions that are clear, in large font and have pictures.



They don't make 'em like they used to boys!

I received my dizzy back from Kurt at Partsklassic. Kurt's a pleasure to deal with. Very knowledgeable and an expert at what he does. It took about 2 weeks to send and get it back and Kurt tells you this up front.



Some of the carnage that came out of my sloppy distributor. Partsklassic sends it back with new cap, rotor and points if applicable.



I forgot to snap a pic of the final beautifully finished piece but here it is in the car.



Obviously everything is taken apart, cleaned, checked and tested. Kurt includes a printout of his test of your distributor showing advance and results.

My distributor is a 184 distributor which refers to the part number. The number is on the side that leans toward the rear engine tin, so it's really hard to see unless you take the dizzy out. The number on the other side that is easy to read is a casting number.

Kurt included an install sheet as well and the main point being, be sure to seat the distributor down and to not use the adjusting nut to pull the housing down.

To be sure that I had the rotor aligned with #1 TDC, I took out spark plug 1 and put in the tube to my leakdown kit. I turned the motor over watching the Z1 mark and stuck my finger over the end of the leakdown tube to feel when the compression stroke for 1 came up. Then I aligned the distributor and rotor to #1 and seated it down. My housing has wear marks from the timing position, so I used that as a rough guide to start the engine.

Then I used my manly timing gun to set the idle timing. Right away the engine started up no problem and with a slight adjustment I was on the mark for 5 degrees BFTDC for idle at 900 rpm. It's easier than it sounds. If anyone is balking at setting their timing, I wouldn't worry about it. Of course I still have to set the total timing advance at 6k rpm and I'll do that with a friend hopefully later today and far away from the prying eyes of the HOA police lady that drives by my house. IT'S JUST A DIRECT TV DISH OK! BULK PICKUP IS TOMORROW. The only difference is now it's not hanging off the side of my house OK? Yes it's on the ground next to where it has been hanging for the last 5 years. OK fine I'll drag it two feet to the other side of my see-through gate, just don't fine me!

The engine sounds extremely healthy and is purring along. Can't wait to get it out again and get a sense of how it runs with tolerances back in check on the distributor. In retrospect, this should have been one of the first fixes for the car. So if you're just starting out, be sure to check yours. FWIW there's a great rebuild tutorial here on pelican and for about $75 in parts you can DIY with the help of a local machine shop. I believe Kurt sells the parts you need. They may be here on Pelican as well.

In other news I uh...(looks around nervously) picked up an IROC tail.

It's just for decoration man! It looks amazing on my wall! So WHAT if I test fit it? So WHAT if I bought a second set of hinges...



So what if I might get it painted GP white when I fill my sunroof (Oh BTW Chris from Fenn lane reached out to me. He broke his arm so he was out of commission for a while. I got the Fennlane sunroof panel ordered and it should be here in a few weeks.)

Look I'm the first to admit it this IROC wing has no business on a n/b midyear. But then again, I'm not in the business of pleasing anyone else but me and I kinda dig the craziness of it all. I'm keeping my decklid, but this will be fun to run on occasion and if I ever flare this car, well -it'll be ready to go. Think I'm going to paint it like this:



The black edges will tuck it in nicely and sort of camo the absurdity of it all when I do run it.

I mean comon look at this thing!



I test fit it over my existing decklid and opened the garage for light. Before I knew it, a posse of local townspeople had formed with pitchforks and torches. "NO MORE WING NO MORE WING" they screamed. A child pushed his way to the front of the crowd and gasped in fright, but then he slowly closed his mouth, and a smiled formed on his cherub-like face. He began to nod slowly and took a step forward. His mother grabbed him and shielded him from the angry perversion of my IROC WING. She screamed "TIMMY GET AWAY FROM THAT WING!"

Yeah. At least that's what happened in my mind when I stood back and admired my work.



I've hung it under my tires and I gotta say, I get a huge smile on my face everytime I walk out of my garage and see it.

Oh and I bought a core 3.2. More to come on that. Have an IROC WING weekend!
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Old 11-10-2017, 10:18 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #257 (permalink)
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Yowza, you can feed a family of 6 on the surface of that wing on Thanksgiving! To each their own. You do you. That's all that matters. Always cool reading your updates.
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:38 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #258 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busta Rib View Post
Yowza, you can feed a family of 6 on the surface of that wing on Thanksgiving! To each their own. You do you. That's all that matters. Always cool reading your updates.
Ha! Yes. I think it’ll spend most of the time here:



But whenever I get a wild hair...
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #259 (permalink)
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All the best with the sun roof delete!

Regarding the tail, imho don't do it. Doesn't fit the cars so far pure style. It looks absurd.
At maximum, use a ductail.
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Old 11-10-2017, 01:16 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #260 (permalink)
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