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Thank you so much for the information about the air recycling....

JLC
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:57 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Enzo View Post
No shame in owning a mid! Looking great.
I've been through this entire thread and keep coming back to this comment. It just annoys the hell out of me. Why should anyone be ashamed to own a Porsche? I just don't get it.

And, oh yeah, a gratuitous pic of my stock '75.
Old 02-11-2016, 06:01 AM
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Car is coming along great. Congratulations!!

On the side mirrors, did you considered getting the original units?



Do not get me wrong... I like what you did with the wheels and the mirrors follow the theme...
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'83 911 SC - RSR Conversion - Part 1 - The discovery / RSR Conversion - Part 2 - The build
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Last edited by wachuko; 02-11-2016 at 06:04 AM..
Old 02-11-2016, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimm View Post
I've been through this entire thread and keep coming back to this comment. It just annoys the hell out of me. Why should anyone be ashamed to own a Porsche? I just don't get it.

And, oh yeah, a gratuitous pic of my stock '75.
Grimm -- W O W Stunning car! You can understand why there are so many that argue that you can't improve upon the stock car. Just beautiful!

In my case, I determined through paint receipts and actually looking at the car that it had been damaged in the back quarter. That fact, the general condition of the car (well used) with the fact that it might be the least desirable of all the air cooled (a 75 California) car led to my decisions to mod it to my own liking.

The comment you reference was probably due to my very first post where I say "yeah it's a middie" - so he was responding there is no shame in owning a middie. You have to admit that the midyears have a bad rap. This was due to notable folks like Bruce Anderson's book outlining the bad design of those early emissions setups. Us midyear owners know the Truth! :-)

The general consensus that I've seen is that the 2.7 mag case and thermo reactors was an awful combination, nearly all surviving cars have had them removed. The 2.7 can be a great engine and we all know about the 74 RS.

I think when I first came into the forum it's easy to be blown away by the high dollar cars. You see a Singer and it takes a bit of courage to post my little 75. But you are right, there's absolutely no shame in owning a Porsche! What makes it easier is the extremely knowledgeable and helpful community.

That is part of the reason I'm documenting some of the more mundane things -I want to pass on some of the info I've found in dozens of threads and tie them all together in one build thread. I'm sure there are folks out there that might think because they don't have a lift, or tons of expensive snap on tools or even a garage - they may not be able to do their own work.
So hopefully they can see that a noob like me can pretty much do it all. Eventually I plan a full engine drop, rebuild to fix all the leaks. My car will not leak. mark my words! :-D

Quote:
Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
Car is coming along great. Congratulations!!

On the side mirrors, did you considered getting the original units?



Do not get me wrong... I like what you did with the wheels and the mirrors follow the theme...
Wachuko -

YES! I struggled with the mirror decision for months! On page one of this thread, JR posted the black mirror part number - I punched it into PP and they said they had them in stock! Even better they were cheaper than the chrome mirrors.



Of course I got an email a day later saying they were NLA. Too good to be true. At that point I thought about the chrome one again but it just looked too classic. I'm not restoring, I'm making it my own. Then I was going to go with the Vitaloni Sebring that you see on Magnus' SC. It uses the flag bases. Problem is that they are hard to find and expensive now, also the fact that I would have to buy bases and re drill new holes to accommodate flag mirrors.

The Vitaloni Baby Tornados are super light and very small. They pay homage to the 'flag' generation of mirrors too.



BTW I want to thank fanaudical for the writeup on the EGR delete...EXACTLY what I needed! Thank you.
Old 02-11-2016, 06:41 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #64 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 75 911s View Post
Grimm -- W O W Stunning car! You can understand why there are so many that argue that you can't improve upon the stock car. Just beautiful!

In my case, I determined through paint receipts and actually looking at the car that it had been damaged in the back quarter. That fact, the general condition of the car (well used) with the fact that it might be the least desirable of all the air cooled (a 75 California) car led to my decisions to mod it to my own liking.

The comment you reference was probably due to my very first post where I say "yeah it's a middie" - so he was responding there is no shame in owning a middie. You have to admit that the midyears have a bad rap. This was due to notable folks like Bruce Anderson's book outlining the bad design of those early emissions setups. Us midyear owners know the Truth! :-)

The general consensus that I've seen is that the 2.7 mag case and thermo reactors was an awful combination, nearly all surviving cars have had them removed. The 2.7 can be a great engine and we all know about the 74 RS.

I think when I first came into the forum it's easy to be blown away by the high dollar cars. You see a Singer and it takes a bit of courage to post my little 75. But you are right, there's absolutely no shame in owning a Porsche! What makes it easier is the extremely knowledgeable and helpful community.

That is part of the reason I'm documenting some of the more mundane things -I want to pass on some of the info I've found in dozens of threads and tie them all together in one build thread. I'm sure there are folks out there that might think because they don't have a lift, or tons of expensive snap on tools or even a garage - they may not be able to do their own work.
So hopefully they can see that a noob like me can pretty much do it all. Eventually I plan a full engine drop, rebuild to fix all the leaks. My car will not leak. mark my words! :-D



Wachuko -

YES! I struggled with the mirror decision for months! On page one of this thread, JR posted the black mirror part number - I punched it into PP and they said they had them in stock! Even better they were cheaper than the chrome mirrors.



Of course I got an email a day later saying they were NLA. Too good to be true. At that point I thought about the chrome one again but it just looked too classic. I'm not restoring, I'm making it my own. Then I was going to go with the Vitaloni Sebring that you see on Magnus' SC. It uses the flag bases. Problem is that they are hard to find and expensive now, also the fact that I would have to buy bases and re drill new holes to accommodate flag mirrors.

The Vitaloni Baby Tornados are super light and very small. They pay homage to the 'flag' generation of mirrors too.



BTW I want to thank fanaudical for the writeup on the EGR delete...EXACTLY what I needed! Thank you.
I love what you're doing with your Porsche. I know someday I'll do something like that, too.

I guess I hadn't had enough coffee before I made my earlier post, and I was a bit ornery. Anyway, yeah, I get it. The middies have been dissed, along with the Cabs and Targas. I love 'em all.

By the way, I had a '73S that set a record a few years ago at Amelia when it was sold (by he guy I sold it to), and I also currently have a '90 Cab. The funny thing is that out of all of them, I like the Cab the most. Go figure. Anyway, carry on. I really enjoy this thread.
Old 02-11-2016, 06:54 AM
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And so the story goes...

Goal: remove hand break and heater control / hand throttle to access the Value Lever for Manual Throttle Lever (Throttle Rod Connection), 911/911S / Carrera (1974-1977) ( 911/911S) At $21.00 they call this a "value lever" right......

PP # 901-424-317-00-M100



I could feel that my hand throttle did nothing. And to get the car warmed up required steady pressure on the gas pedal for 3-5 minutes. I initially thought that might just be the old car and being poorly tuned etc. But the hand throttle was there for a reason. Time to fix it.



You may also want to be aware of the other plastic pieces that fall apart over time, the three accelerator rod bushings

They are located at the pedal assembly, near the shifter and the back tunnel access panel.

The smaller piece chunk I found was likely the middle one from the shifter area that had worked it's way back. Part #: 901-423-227-00-OEM (X3)

If anyone can help me remove the hand brake assembly I'd appreciate it.

Haynes is a few sentences long and apparently I'm supposed to remove the heater knobs off then slide the handles through the housing. Not possible since the threaded shaft goes through several retaining washers. The outside washer cannot be removed that I can see. The puzzle only makes sense if the shaft can be pushed out, but it seems solidly in there. I don't want to bend the housing.

I disconnected the hand brake easily enough, but underneath the wires holding the heater handles are keeping the housing too close to the access hole. I'll never be able to get my replacement part in there.

I did find a 73 diagram which includes the hand throttle. Now I know what way it's orientated.



Bolt 17 is the one I'm wondering if I can push out to get the heater control levers off.

Haven't received my parts yet so I decided to tackle replacing the plugs. I also have a new valve gasket kit so I thought I would open up the top covers and see what horrors I could find.

If you're a newb like me, here's a couple quick tips. Your tool kit came with a plug socket and it generally sucks. But it gives you an idea of how far in they are. I used a short extension and a new socket that will pop over and hold the end of the plug. I managed to partially drop #4 but was able to fish it out after removing the valve cover on that side.

5/6 plugs looked good. The gaps were off on 2. Plug #2 was completely black and coated with oil. Leaky ring or valve guide?

Then I took off the valve cover on 1,2 and 3 and I found this...



Is this oil starvation on the rockers? At first I thought water might be getting in there. What do you think?

Lastly, I took a peak at the EGR valve and if you watched the video you'll notice there is no inlet pipe off the valve into the intake. Hopefully whoever left off that intake pipe plugged the EGR valve somewhere. I'll investigate further.
Old 02-12-2016, 06:44 AM
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Enjoying reading and following your posts. You've accomplished much. Great 911!
Old 02-13-2016, 06:39 AM
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Congrats man!
+1 on painting the cookie cutters
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:46 AM
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haha bit late to the party..
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Old 02-13-2016, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mony View Post
Congrats man!
+1 on painting the cookie cutters
:-D well a bit more on that adventure... I went through about $80 and 20 hours of trying to clean the paint off.



The outer gold paint dissolved pretty easily with aircraft stripper. That stuff is bad stuff. I used a heavy duty mask and heavy duty rubber gloves at all times. The problem isn't applying it. It is later when you have to remove it after it has dried. It becomes toxic paint flecks that burn upon skin contact. I could contain it pretty well, but inevitably it get's tracked into the house and f's your s up - if you know what I mean.


BTW just pull off the valve stems. They are cheap. Take some dykes and cut the back off and slip them out. Here I tried to tape them off like a dummy. Like the aircraft stripper wasn't going to leak in and compromise them.



I saw a guy took his wheels to the car wash, hit 'em with oven cleaner and then power washed them off. Tempting but BAD for aluminum wheels as oven cleaner is corrosive and will pit the surface. PROBABLY OK if you immediately wash it off. Believe you me - for $75.00 cookie cutters I considered it. But, i'm a "do it right" kind of guy. If I do it wrong, it's because of ignorance.

This is how far I got on one.



I know what you're saying..."It looks good!" but then I had the bright idea of trying to completely remove all the paint, including off the inside which it started to work, but man this was turning into a lot of pain. Not to mention I was brewing up a brake dust/aircraft stripper brew that I heard the N. Koreans are looking into for chemical warfare.


At that point my hands felt 100 years older and as I lay there awake at night, my hands cramping and crying out in agony, I thought to myself "WTF are you doing man? This aint fun -you still have to polish them, which means another $100 in supplies and hours of time. I'm gettin' too old for this s____" It was like that scene in Castaway when Tom Hanks is calculating the number of ropes he can make using roots. I had to get off that island.

If I could go back in time, I would just pay to bead blast them. Duh. If the right media is used it wont pit the aluminum.

Last edited by 75 911s; 02-16-2016 at 05:59 AM..
Old 02-13-2016, 08:59 AM
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Got my new single pulley, replacement shims and pulley wrench from PP.



Getting the new fan belt on was a major frustration. First time changing out a belt. I guess it doesn't help when you are 6'6" and the pulley is about 2 feet off the ground. Next time I put it up on jack stands. ow my old back. Too much basketball in my youth.

The difficulty lies in keeping the belt from getting pinched while you tighten the pulley half up. As per the 101 projects book, I went with 5 shims on the inside and 1 on the out to start. I got the nut on and then rotated the pulley half to move the belt higher on the pulley. If it gets pinched, you have to loosen and rotate back. Eventually you can get the belt high enough to tighten the nut. I torqued it down (29.5 ft/lbs) and the belt had about 1/4" of finger push.



While I was waiting on those parts I was fixing the hand throttle and was waiting on the 'value lever'





Thank you to this gentleman for getting me started



so Here's what worked for me:

1. Remove both seats
2. Remove carpet near the parking brake, it snaps off toward the back an peels toward the front
3. Remove the parking brake boot -it will slide up over the top - no need to remove knobs.
4. Remove the 3 housing bolts (13mm) for the parking brake assembly
5. Remove the parking brake cable retaining pin clip and retaining pin so that you can move the assembly far enough off the access hole for the tunnel. The two defrost cables will still be connected. I was unable to remove the hand levers or cables for the defrost.
6. Remove the 13mm bolt, washer, two friction washers and hand throttle handle from the bolt that runs through the housing.
7. Install new value lever, there should be a tiny washer and retaining clip that hold it on to the hand throttle.
8. Position the hand brake and housing near the e-brake cable and reinstall the pin and retaining clip for the parking brake. I used one of those long parts grabbers with the retractable claws.
9. Put a friction washer back on and loosely place the throttle arm back onto the bolt on the housing and align the value lever on the accelerator cable barrel nut by feel. place the other friction washer, the metal stopper washer and the smaller washer and nut back on for the throttle arm.
10. Test by watching the accelerator pedal - It should depress when moving the hand throttle.
11. Reinstall housing bolts, boot, carpet. Ensure parking brake, defrost levers and hand throttle operate.

Easy as 1, 2 4~!

I also did some cosmetic stuff. New taillight lenses.

I just can't believe it would crack in this area!

Clean the inside out while you're there...

New


Duh forgot gaskets. Well the lenses went on for now, the old gaskets weren't perfect but they will work temporarily.

Also painted up my wiper arms.
self etching primer


Don't forget new covers



My amazing paint booth

Old 02-16-2016, 07:20 AM
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I thought some of you might get a kick out of my idiocy...

Step 1. Buy wrong oil pan.



Step 2. A reenactment of the Exxon Valdez occurs.

Step 3. Read forum and face palm.


Another 911 rite of passage checked off.



Good news is strainer is metal free. Bad news is I need new m6 nylon lock nuts. - another trip to the store. I'll also orient my drain plug driver side. Just like the pros. I put new gaskets in already, there was silicone all over the place. I scraped that off of course.

Debating on whether to try a valve job on my own or not. I need to pull the valve cover on the left anyway to inspect the exhaust side of 4 and 5.

Before the big oil mess, I started it again with the new plugs in. She started right up which was a first. Viva new spark. Also my new hand throttle was working and kept the car running without my foot on the pedal. I kicked off the throttle and she died. But then wouldn't restart in 3 tries. not sure what that is about. I rolled it back in the garage and decided to do my oil change.

A quick follow up. I mistakenly identified a fuel breather hose as a window washer fill hose in an earlier post. I replaced those hoses as they were brittle and they wouldn't fit around my new headlight relay. In the process, I came across a small metal nipple that was inline before the charcoal canister. What is that for? If I would guess it would restrict actual gas flow to the canister?

My next question is... Is this my US spec spacer on my front shock?


How do I remove those?

Lastly some follow up to my fan/alternator belt replacement odyssey. You pros are going to laugh, but I have about 10 hours into that job.

I thought i had it good but I had the dome nut on backwards facing out. This resulted in wobble on the pulley half. When installing the nut my torque wrench popped, but I continued to tighten like a moron. So I ended up gorrilla tightening my fan nut on. It took me two days to get it back off again. Even my impact wrench wouldn't budge it. I bent my brand new fan pulley tool. $34.00 lesson. I'm not sure but I may have bent the new pulley half as well. Once I got it off, I inspected the shims and nuts and surprisingly they weren't toast. I ordered new ones anyway. I got everything on right, including dome nut facing toward the engine and whatya know, no wobble, the fan belt is tight and everything is bueno. On a positive, I'm now the leading expert on replacing fan belts on midyear 911's in the immediate area.

I relaxed by removing these spectacular 1980s blown Jensen mids.



But I found this mystery piece...

Old 02-18-2016, 10:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #72 (permalink)
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Yes, that looks like a US strut spacer. Removal requires unbolting the top of the strut from the mount in the trunk and compressing the strut enough to get it below the strut mount so you can get the washer off. New front end alignment needed afterwards.

Mystery piece looks like a stop wedge for the window regulator. It's what the regulator arm bottoms out on when the window is all the way down.

JR
Old 02-18-2016, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javadog View Post
Yes, that looks like a US strut spacer. Removal requires unbolting the top of the strut from the mount in the trunk and compressing the strut enough to get it below the strut mount so you can get the washer off. New front end alignment needed afterwards.

Mystery piece looks like a stop wedge for the window regulator. It's what the regulator arm bottoms out on when the window is all the way down.

JR
Thank you JR!

I should have bought that Monty from you!

Well I'm in the middle of a valve adjustment quest. I feel sort of lost.

Firstly I can't seem to locate TDC or my valves are too tight.

My pulley doesn't have a Z1 mark. It has 2 sets of double notches that are on both sides of the pulley, then two other single notches that are only on the outer edge.

To make matters more confusing for me, my rotor is an older one? That I don't know where the front is...
Is the red arrow pointing to the front?


I rotated the engine (removed the plugs and covers of course) and I can see the firing order, when I thought I got back to one TDC on Number 1 and one of the notches is aligned I attempt to slide my feeler gauge in and there's no apparent gap. I don't want to break my tool. Could it be they are too tight?

--------------------------

In other news....good night sweet prince (EGR delete)



Slight plug in the EGR line to the EGR valve.



Cleaned up that area - Just stand on your head for this one. You get the idea.



---------------------------

I had put a headlight relay in. It bolts underneath the fuse box on a pre existing screw. This was right in line with a very stiff and fragile breather hose. When trying to move it out of the way it shattered into shards. I found this>>



I set it aside and installed new breather tubes. I noticed after I did that I couldn't restart after a stall. Could it be this tiny restrictor to the overflow tank?

I'll put it back in. I found that it goes here:



But I can't tell which direction the restrictor goes. Can anyone help?

I can't find a Bentley Manual for a 75 - somewhere I saw they don't have them for the early cars? is that right?

OK Muffler Poll:

1. Magnaflow 2 in 2 out - $
2. Bursch 2 in 1 out - $$
3. MK 2 in 2 out $$$
4. Monty 2 in 1 out $$$$
Old 02-21-2016, 06:24 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #74 (permalink)
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Congratulations! I've just done nearly the same... born in '75 and got an early '74 Targa with a 3.0L. Don't bother about the "midyear" BS. You've just acquired an appreciating asset "on sale" and the naysayers will soon be proved wrong. Look what happened to the 964!
Old 02-21-2016, 12:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #75 (permalink)
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That was some valve adjustment. Tell you what. I'm now $1000.00 richer! or $1000.00 less poor or something.

1. Remove plugs, valve covers (Pro-tip there are four!) Dizzy cap etc.
2. ???
3. Profit!



In all seriousness there is a steep learning curve but persistence, logic and this board as a resource got me through it.

Got my sump cover on right way



I was blind before and couldn't see that my pulley DOES have a z1 mark on it. Once I found TDC I was confident about checking the gaps...which btw were all too tight. Finding WHERE the gauge slides in (when you are on your back under the car reaching up into a tiny space is a pain, but once you get that first slide in, tighten up -feel the right resistance - it's a victory - the rest after the first one were cake.

One good thing that came about the valve job is I removed the passenger side wheel and I found a 5 inch bolt sticking out of the engine bay! It probably didn't affect the PO as he was running the 6" wide wheels, but I'm glad I saw it and cut it off. I couldn't get to it via the engine bay as it was behind the shock mount. Coulda been bad.



I put a new cap, rotor and points on as well. She had no spark so I took it apart and moved the gap in and it's running. It was running like bantha fodder until I noticed one wire was off the cap. Duh. My wires are really loose in the cap - I'll be ordering a new set.



Now it's purring nicely, starting nicely and begging to be driven!~

Next up is to buy a timing gun and maybe a used dwell ...uh...meter? Any recommendations on that?

I also need a .012 feeler gauge for the points for the initial setting.

I picked up a drain cover from the local hardware store and shot it with satin.



Makes a pretty good cover for the EGR delete.

Old 02-23-2016, 11:35 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #76 (permalink)
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More like Hella gone...



Wow! Those things are heavy - and crusty.



I can see bar codes through the cracked old lenses? What's that about?


I'm going to put on a 911 Front Chin Spoiler
Part #: 911-503-055-00-M66 as it looks sort of naked down there now.



I like the fogs on 911's in general even though they are completely useless in an arid climate like mine.

I ordered one of Al's custom grills. I think he's knee deep in an engine build right now though so I have to be patient. I hit my existing grill with satin and it's pretty good from 10 feet. Up close it's a disaster. I just wasn't up for sanding all those grooves down yet.



Today I'm off to get inspected - wish me luck.
Old 02-25-2016, 06:56 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #77 (permalink)
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Well yesterday was good and bad. I got my plates and passed inspection. 4 hours at the DMV

On my way home I was rev'd pretty high in first from a stop going around a corner and 2nd suddenly wouldn't engage. Just massive grinding. All other gears are fine, but 2nd continued to not be able to be engaged.

I knew that the syncros in 1st were heading south as first occasionally grinds going in, but rarely. I think I need a rebuild on 1st and 2nd. Typical 915 issues. I don't see any documentation on the trans so I might be heading for a rebuild on that. 158k miles on the car.

This week I'll be inspecting the trans, draining looking for bits of metal etc. Then comes the dilemma of rebuilding it myself or farming it out.

In other news my cowl vent was blasted clean of paint.



I decided to repaint that and came across an interesting tidbit about a non existent/wrong gasket. You can read more here.

The basic story is, on lighter body cars the factory would put black tape under the cowl vent grill and it sort of has the appearance of a gasket. Pelican shows a gasket in a diagram but sends an inner rubber o ring gasket.

One pelican suggests using gaff tape.



It's a thick durable tape, almost like duct but not as sticky. It seems to have a cloth fiber in it.
I happen to have gaff tape as I'm in the film industry so I cleaned up the area and applied my gaffer tape around and painted and reinstalled the grill.



Looks good all said and done...

Old 02-28-2016, 07:26 AM
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Thanks for the updates.

Unfortunately sounds like transmission rebuild time.
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Old 02-28-2016, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdskip View Post
Thanks for the updates.

Unfortunately sounds like transmission rebuild time.
:-/

Wanted to take my son for a ride today.. Bummed. And now that I'm legal I wanted to get a few hundred on the odometer before doing anything else major.

I gotta tell you all a funny story. I've got the car parked in the drive way wifey is outside and sees it (She is the furthest thing possible from a 'car person' - grew up with zero car culture as it were --- opposites attract right?) But she says "Where are the hubcaps?" lol

I know you guys that hate blacked out rims will laugh.

My response was "it's a look"

She says "It looks bad" Hahah oh well. I know it will be polarizing.

On the positive side young kid at the DMV sees my rims "OH LOVE YOUR WHEELS TOO! 911 CARRERA? " (not wanting to engage too much and say it's just a 911s) "uh yeah!"
Old 02-28-2016, 07:52 AM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #80 (permalink)
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