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Listen to your wife, not the kid at the DMV....

Exorcise the word "rims" from thy vocabulary, post haste.

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Old 02-28-2016, 08:26 AM
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While I'm waiting on some transmission parts I decided to lower the car.

Here is my experience with that. I plan to corner and align when finished.

As many of you know, the front is easily lowered using the adjustment screw on the front torsion bar. I could tell that mine had been altered as one of the adjustment bolts had a hefty amount of loc-tight applied at some point. I also noticed my steering rack boot is coming off. I plan a future turbo tie-rod install, probably when I install the bump steer kit.

I started by measuring my current lip height.


74?-83 had the spacer in the front shock> I removed that first. Pretty straight forward. The spacer is 10mm wide.






Sorry no pics of the front adjustment screw but I found it easy to simply jack up one side first, oil up the screw, then use a socket and ratchet to adjust it roughly keeping track of how many turns. You can watch the tire move up as you do it. After several times jacking up both sides and remeasuring I got the front even and looking awesome. I'll upload some pics after I get the rear sorted. But it looks way better IMHO.

The nice thing about doing these jobs is that you find not so obvious things that need to be tended to.

It looks nearly all my wheel studs where impact tightened on many times over the life of the car and thus stripped.



BTW is there a trick to getting black lugs off without scratching them? I bought what I thought was a special non marring socket just for lug nuts. It looks like a gold shotgun shell. Lugnuts get marked every time. It's a 19mm socket and fits snug. Might go with steel lugs for that auto X look.

What do you think my priority of replacing those should be? The aluminum lugs will torque down to 94ft/lbs ok.

The rear is obviously a lot trickier to lower. I don't feel the least bit bad about going in there and screwing up the ride geometry because I can see that questionable mechanics have been in before me. Who knows how off the alignment/camber / toe etc has been.

For instance. I'm completely missing my drivers side camber bolt!



Like the bolt sticking out of the passengers side that I posted earlier - I'm really glad I decided to go in there on my own.

If anyone has a used camber bolt they can send me I would appreciate it and gladly pay shipping and for the bolt> Maybe you upgraded to all new spring plates or rear suspension and have one lying around. The replacement bolt from Porsche/ Pelican is $60.00!

I followed the procedures outlined in Wayne's 101 book. I searched several times but I can't seem to find any pictures of step by step for the rear. The book sort of skims over it picture wise. If you have a link bookmarked, please let me know.

So I thought I would follow 101 projects as best I can and maybe get some as you go advice.

Removing the rear shock - easy



Removing the lower rearward torsion bar cover bolt and spacer - easy



The intention here is to take all the pressure off the torsion bar and start measurement in its resting state. I know that the torsion bar has 40 inner splines and the outer has 44. If you index the inner spline you get an alteration of 9 degrees and the outer an alteration of 8 degrees 10 minutes.

I ascribed two lines on the body using the spring plate as a guide. I should mention I started on a level surface, and leveled the car.

I wiggled the trailing arm up and down to make sure the tension was off the spring plate.

I removed the remaining 3 torsion bar cover bolts and pulled off the Torsion bar cover. - Easy



I removed the two bolts holding on the spring plate to the trailing arm - easy

The bottom bolt has the nut on the outside, the top on the inside. Is this right? Haynes shows only the bottom bolt with the nut on the outside. The top bolt is omitted from the diagram I checked the other side - same setup. One of the bolts was loose and one was missing the toothed washer.

I pried off the spring plate very carefully. I see that my inner torsion splines came out easier.



Careful to not bump and scratch the torsion bar as this could compromise the bar. I moved it up one spline using my scribe marks as a guide and reassembled. I might be conservative, considering the front, but I do want a slight rake.

I'll post follow up pics and any other issues I run into with the other side. I think my rims are going to look totally fresh! Erm sorry JR... I mean my wheels will look better with a slight lowering.
Old 03-02-2016, 10:13 AM
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Hard to believe you are lowering it further, given how low you appeared to be when starting out...

JR
Old 03-02-2016, 11:05 AM
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Get low when the whistle blow

Yeah it's too low. The desire is to fill out the wheel well more, but I have the wrong tire on there. A 205/55 would have been a better tire choice probably. You just never know until you get it on the car. I just didn't want to rub.

It was good for me to get in there and see the process. That's how you learn first hand.



I'll raise it back back up to just around where it was before. Glad I got in there to find the missing camber bolt though. I know the car was hit on that side. I just don't know how hard. That is the badly painted quarter panel side. When reassembling the left rear, they probably couldn't get the bolt in or just forgot it. Sucks because it's a really expensive bolt. The passenger side didn't appear to have ever been apart.



I want to thank Al Kosmal for his custom grille. You can find his grille thread here and his webisite X-faktory here. He's also building a really badass 3.0 EFI / ITB motor currently
Old 03-03-2016, 06:36 AM
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If you are not worried about originality, put some adjustable spring plates on and then you are set up for future suspension mods.
Old 03-03-2016, 10:16 AM
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Well I decided to bite the bullet and take the car to a local shop. 2nd was grinding and not engaging and I needed an alignment and the timing done. I decided not to do the timing myself mostly because I live in a strict HOA neighborhood and also my wife is not a good assistant. 6k rpm ..yeah right.



Bye girl! Flat bed guy was cool, he was the one recommended by the shop so he was used to picking up low cars.

I knew my shift bushings were toast, but not knowing the car that well I didn't even think that that might be the problem of why I couldn't get into second. I just assumed my 915 was needing a rebuild because of what the PO said. Never let anyone rain-cloud you.

What's interesting is deep down inside I knew that was the problem. I had already bought the replacement bushings... All I needed to do was take off the rear cover access panel (again) and fix it. Oh well I needed an alignment badly and the timing...so Off it went.

When I went to pick it up.... What a beautiful sight!



I offered to trade the gentleman to my right straight across... he said "I love air cooled!" :-D

Shifts great now and I still haven't put in the Kendall I just got...

Problem is I picked up Limited-Slip kendall from our host just being ignorant. I don't see that my 915 has the LSD sooo it'll be a bit longer before that job. Any harm in using the lsd oil? I know it has the additive. My transmission is only marked with 715-1087 so no 220 option that I can see.

Another thread said check the white sticker in the front...can anyone decipher this?



Anyhooo Got my tailight gaskets, so started in on that job. Found some wires rubbing and shorting out...



When putting the new tailight gaskets on, should I be using any glue? there seemed to be residue under the old crusty gasket. They fit pretty good dry once you seat it firmly around the housing.

On the other side I found this mystery wire loom....I wonder if it's the Euro back fog light? (looked it up on here seems it is)



Next up, my shift knob is loose, There's a crush sleeve that holds it on, but PO put what looks like liquid nails in there - well that finally gave out. Not too excited about the cheap plastic knob so I think I'm going to rennline the black aluminum knob.

Also ended the fan belt oddesyee by putting on the 2nd new pulley (first new pulley was bent from my stupidity) and new nut. Took me 5 minutes this time. I GOT YOU!



Also put in the new wires. sex-ay.



Follow up to the 60$ eccentric bolt that was missing - Partsheaven had one and shipped it for 25. yay me. Good resource. I also popped on my new sway bar bushings. I used a vise and a sledge hammer with a block of wood. The vise to squeeze on the bushing and the sledge to hit the wood to push the arm onto the ball on the trailing arm.




Captain's log, supplemental: I was trouble shooting a brake light issue and I had the floor board off by the pedal assembly - this car is like new underneath. It's wild. Such a juxtaposition of virgin areas mixed with ...erm well used areas.

Laundry list:
1. get the right Kendall Gear oil. (I called around locally about swepco, no one ever heard of swepco in this one horse town.)
2. Sunroof seal.
3. Door cards, mine are rough and i'd like the extra room and weight off.
4. Looking at seat options.. when I had mine out I was shocked at the extreme weight. Plus I'd like to gain an inch headroom. I like the recaro speed S but 2k feels like overkill for this car.
5. Re-do the valve job. Some ticking going on. They were all way tight first time through. Must buy new feeler gauge.

Last edited by 75 911s; 03-12-2016 at 04:40 PM.. Reason: i can has grammer.
Old 03-12-2016, 04:38 PM
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Sped up vid of my trip to Red Rock this morning. So fun to drive!












Old 03-19-2016, 04:00 PM
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It looks great! The black wheels on white are perfect.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:32 PM
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I like the heat...

Fellow pelicanite had some free thermo reactors...I couldn't resist!

What to do with them? Make a wing? Yard art? Coat rack? Put them back on the car?

Speaking of putting things on the car, I put Appbiz's RS America door panels on. Fun job. The hardest part was popping off the door pull arm. I used a short flat head to push the arm up and out of the plastic sleeve.

The instructions say the pull strap is offset. It is no longer offset and the grommet is dead center, though the instructions mention mounting the pull strap with the offset toward the back of the car. I called Bob at appbiz and he confirmed the instructions were outdated. The new pull straps have the grommet in the center.

Another little thing I ran into was mounting that pull strap. I had some plastic spacers from my license plate kit that I put in there just to lower the strap a bit below the pull mechanism. This allowed the pull strap to rotate freely without catching on the latch mechanism. I'm not sure if my latch is slightly different than newer cars, but the drivers side bolt wouldn't drop in the hole until I partially removed the whole assembly.

Also, don't over think the moisture membrane. Just enough to hold it in place and then put the panel on.



Also worth noting is that you get 6 machine screws for securing the bottom. Intuitively you might think that you can use 6 on each side (If you aren't keeping track of hardware) so be careful to not cut 6 holes in your new panel at the bottom - even though the stock door has room for 6 screws. Also be sure to match them up so both sides match as you have 6 holes and are only utilizing 3 on each side.

I replaced my license plate lights. The only issue there was having to feed the wiring harness from the backside in order to get the connectors OUT of the bumperette to attach the new pieces. A great update for only $15.00 each and they come with the bulbs - but they don't come with the screws FYI.



Got a Rennline aluminum shift knob. HUGE improvement. :-)



Got a front chin spoiler. All my holes were already there. Including the side holes-just covered in a soft metal that pushed out!

I recommend removing the lower valance, unless you have a lift. There were 2 small screws on each side near the wheel with a captive nut, one bolt behind the side markers on both sides, and two in the frunk. Eight total.



I mocked up some singer style air ducts in the front to see how it would look with gaff tape. I like it! It looked sort of naked down there without fogs. I don't even have a front mounted cooler yet. Not even the trombone :-/





I briefly entertained the idea of fixing my fogs and maybe putting amber lenses on them but they are really really rough.



Also picked up the Euro side bumper pieces.



Saving up for those h4's but I have a few leaks to tend to first...
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Last edited by 75 911s; 03-28-2016 at 10:52 AM..
Old 03-26-2016, 11:23 PM
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Some H4's came my way before I could get to the leaky S tube and crossover oil line. My camshaft oil senders look pretty leaky too so those are on the hit list.

My next big project is to drain the oil, clean the tank, install new lines and new sender. I have a major leak that looks to be coming off the crossover line and my sender has not been working very well. I also ordered the split gasket set of one gray and one green with silicone bead for the lowers. I might sand them flat too before going back on. Lastly, it will be time for my second valve adjustment, now that I know what I'm doing...sort of.

Back to the H4's. I knew that was something I'd be replacing asap. I just really dig the h4's and it's a much superior setup. I had already installed the relay kit some time ago.

My front end makeover is complete! Before:



After:



I have a mini project to do there, which is to rig up a pigtail for the 'city lights' option on the H4's.





I also picked up some black door handles here on the classified.People like Jeff from the home built hot rod thread inspire me to try things myself. So thanks Jeff!

My results were far from perfect but the experience was well worth it.

I followed "He who shall not be named" tutorial on his website.

1 inch apart



Lined up, first I was going to do 5 holes, but 4 fit better on the newer style handles IMHO.



A beat up and worn out drill press with some new tooling and a lot of patience.



Pretty good from 5 feet - just like everything else on the car!

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Old 04-04-2016, 06:46 AM
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Born in 74..here is a couple of 74's...Welcome...!

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Old 04-05-2016, 12:47 PM
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Heat Backdate

^Great pics of your 74 targa and 914 Scott! (edit: your pics are gone now) I see your profile has a 75...where's that one?

Speaking of the 1974 Porsche, they had an excellent heat setup! My quest to conservatively lighten the car continues.

My blower motor was pathetic, ugly and heavy. Three great reasons to remove it and go with a heat backdate setup. I haven't weighed it, but along with the mounting bracket and tubing it was a fair amount of weight.

If you aren't familiar with the heat backdate, it uses the alternator fan to blow air through the exchanges instead of the separate blower motor. You buy replacement ducts here on PP and the install is quite easy and fun.

Here's the existing right side block off plate.



I used tin snips to cut my existing hose as it was damaged and if I ever restore the car to original, I would need to replace the long length anyway.



The cam oil feed lines are in the way, I loosened the banjo fitting using two wrenches



The new passenger side duct is in place.



Here are both original pieces after removal.



This was an initial mock up. I'll be replacing my leaking cam oil feed lines this week.

Onto the Driver's side where I ran into a minor fitment issue.

All my other screws line up but the bottom tab is off by about 3/4 of an inch. I'm wondering if there is something missing here. When I removed the original piece it was not connected to the machine bolt going into the case at the bottom. You can see in the picture that the bottom is torn off.



Also my kit came with one piece of foam edging strip. I assume this is to butt up against the fan housing on the drivers side? I haven't installed it yet.

The drivers side oil line sticks out much more to clear the plug wire. I had to disconnect it completely.



All finished. No nasty hose across the top of the fan housing!

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Old 04-06-2016, 06:41 AM
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Hey guys. Car has 10 separate leaks so I decided to try to take out a few with what I'm calling my "Oil Makeover"

Come along for the ride.

My biggest leak was the old oil line to the crossover pipe. This thing was dripping like mad right onto my heat exchangers.

Step 1: Order cheap Chinese 36mm wrench.

Step 2: Cut a section out.



Step 3: Instant oil line wrench!



Other side came loose with a small pop. You can see how leaky and compromised this line was.



Dropping the oil tank was simple.



Getting one hose (below the breather tube line) loose was the hardest part.



Next up I may send it out to get it pressure tested, blasted and painted. I might do it myself. I tried kerosene as suggested in another thread to remove the oil on the outside. That was a right mess.

The sender was bad, I have a new one ready to go. The seal around it was gone and it was leaking bad from there as well.

I did my second valve adjustment while I had the oil out. I didn't quite get it right the first time - as it was quite noisy on one side. I made my own feeler gauge this time. Way easier to work with than the pelican tool.



I marked it for depth too with a permanent marker. That helps a lot. I also removed my engine tin and sent them to the powder coater.

I left the rear tin on as I can't get it out without the muffler drop. But I'm planning a 2in2out muffler so I'll do it then.

I fixed 7 additional leaks as follows.

2 - two new cam oil lines with new aluminum crush washers
2 - Lower valve covers leaked. I'll sand them on my granite table with some 80 grit big square I got from HD. figure 8's -I picked up the silicone lower gasket cover kit. SHOULD fix those two leaks.
2 - screw plugs in front of the top valve covers. Someone just kept tightening them and the original crush washers were toast. New aluminum washers there too and cleaned up.
1 - oil pressure sender. Loose because again people kept trying to tighten it. The washers were garbage. New washers in there and cleaned up.

I also put the rubber boots on my electrical connections on the fuel pump. On this car it rides in the back near the left rear wheel. A great spot to get wet and cruddy. My brother in law installed the pump as I handed him tools. I didn't realize he omitted the boots at the time until I found them in my parts box later.

When I was down there I discovered a hole in my torsion bar tube near the back left. Does something go there? or did a perfectly round hole somehow get in my torsion bar tube?
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Old 04-15-2016, 05:16 PM
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Here's a shot of the hole in my torsion bar tube. It's on the driver's side. The hole looks round, and not from rust. Is there something that goes in there? I can't find anything on the PET. I've had the torsion bar partially out and this hole has not been there long. In fact, you can see where a jack stand likely popped off a grommet or something that was covering the hole. I used cardboard between the stand and the tube, but still resulted in some undercoating damage.

I think I'll just clear off a bit of undercoating and JB weld the hole up.



I got my valve covers back from my local powder coater. They did a good job. I took the opportunity to sand them down.



I found some 80 grit sheets in the tool rental section of Home depot and taped it to my flat granite counter-top. I sanded in figure 8 motions mostly. They all required a fair amount of work to get flat.

Partially sanded lowers



I did them metallic silver to make it easier to spot any future leaks.



The tin were coated satin. The engine bay is really starting to clean up.



I decided to go ahead and get my oil tank pressure tested and cleaned professionally. Why not? it was out of the car and it seemed prudent.

I took to a local radiator shop called Kool Radiators here in Las Vegas. Hole in the wall shop but he previously did another Porsche tank and several local shops recommended him. While I wait for the tank, I cleaned up the wheel wells with some purple power and water. Looks so much better.

I also had time to put in my new H4 gaskets and that turned out to be a major frustration. My drivers side H4 simply doesn't fit. If i remove the chrome ring, I can snap the ring on the fender with some force to it's proper location. With a gasket and the headlight? It's just not going.

I'm majorly frustrated. I keep thinking of the guy at the factory fitting the lights for the Euro spec cars in 1975. I just can't see the factory worker having this kind of issue. I know they were hand made, but this is ridiculous. My fender doesn't look damaged. Is the US inner housing different? The metal inner part? Maybe I have some cheap repo rings or something. It is just a really poor fit.

I took a break from that and took some steel wool to my fan. Goodbye 40 years of grime. I got the big chunks off, I can come back with 000 steel wool and in my dry climate i shouldn't need to do much more other than hit it occasionally.

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Old 04-25-2016, 10:48 AM
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pssst: Cars aren't born. They're BUILT.
Old 04-25-2016, 11:09 AM
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lovin this thread -- keep up the good work!
Old 04-25-2016, 11:22 AM
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Great thread, I like your "can do" attitude and willingness to make mistakes while learning. It's just a car, working on it makes it yours!

cheers
Old 04-25-2016, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaunmbenson View Post
lovin this thread -- keep up the good work!
Quote:
Originally Posted by deguitars View Post
Great thread, I like your "can do" attitude and willingness to make mistakes while learning. It's just a car, working on it makes it yours!

cheers
Thanks guys - I really appreciate the feedback. I should probably start a new thread on this, but I'll keep it here for consistency.

I'm having a problem installing the Oil line from the oil tank to the crossover pipe. It's a California 75 so ...apparently somewhat unique part is used here. The A markes the crossover pipe that I THINK is causing my problem.



FYI the cooler is next to the motor not in the front. I'm not sure what's different between the other midyear non front oil cooler pipes. The pipe for Cal cars seems to have a bit more curve on one end?Here's what Pelican listed.



Guess which part yours truly - Cheapy McCheaps-a-lot -bought?

Yes the last one. But I'm not sure that is the problem. At least I hope not. (I think that all three are identical in length).

Here's how it fits...



I noticed when putting on my tin on that side, the crossover pipe was putting a lot of tension on the tin in that area.

So right now, my guess is that the oil crossover pipe was tightened without holding the pipe, thus twisting the crossover pipe and putting it over too far on the hookup side.

When I removed the compromised pipe it had a massive s bend in the pipe. That can't be right. No wonder it leaked.

Fixing the crossover pipe might be dad-gum near impossible. It requires a skinny 32mm wrench. It's blocked by an oil return pipe.

Options I've come up with:

1. I cut out the oil return pipe that blocks the skinny crossover pipe nut, re-align the crossover pipe, and put in a new return pipe... right idea? tons of work, must order more parts.

2. Apply heat and bend the crossover pipe to bend it closer to the hookup line. extremely bad idea

3. Put a spacer between the Line and the cooler, (leave tension) but move pipe out. dumb idea

4. Order the other expensive line from Porsche and see if it's shorter. rich man idea

5. Put the line on forcing a kink/bend in the tube (as it was when I removed it) PO idea

6. take the Oil line to a local hydrualic shop and have them shorten it 2 inches. wrong solution idea.

------------------------------

Related story - Kool radiator finished my tank. $50 bucks and they cleaned it out nicely and pressure tested. No leaks. They didn't paint it though, so I hit it with some hi-temp bbq satin black.

The install went OK. Kind of a bear to get it back in.







Lastly, I figured out my torsion bar tube hole (See one of my previous posts). There is a matching hole in my torsion bar on the other side. Also there are two holes with plugs on the other side of the torsion bar tube right at the spring plate. These must be optional grease nipple locations for the Carerra model? Or just plugs that can be popped out to grease the torsion bar without having to remove it. Anyone have a pelican part link for these plugs? I can't find them listed.

No one has seen these holes?

I've got to concentrate, concentrate, concentrate. Echo echo echo. Pinch hitting for Pedro Borbon...Manny Motta!
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:12 AM
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You do know, right, that Mota and Borbon were never on the same team at the same time? That was part of the joke.
Old 04-27-2016, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick_D View Post
You do know, right, that Mota and Borbon were never on the same team at the same time? That was part of the joke.
Actually I didn't lol. That's great.

I think I figured it out. Funny thing about writing it all out, it really helps to focus and troubleshoot.

The crossover pipe is simply out of position. I'll have to remove the crossover tube that obstructs the inner nut. Which is a good thing. Upon inspecting my return tubes, two of them have major leaks and sliding movement of aprox 1/4"! Looks like it will be a few more days before I'm back on the road as I'll be replacing those 4 tubes now.
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:09 AM
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