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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75 911s View Post




Shifts great now and I still haven't put in the Kendall I just got...

Problem is I picked up Limited-Slip kendall from our host just being ignorant. I don't see that my 915 has the LSD sooo it'll be a bit longer before that job. Any harm in using the lsd oil? I know it has the additive. My transmission is only marked with 715-1087 so no 220 option that I can see.

Laundry list:
1. get the right Kendall Gear oil. (I called around locally about swepco, no one ever heard of swepco in this one horse town.)

Don't know if you have done this already. It's my understanding that the Kendall LS is fine for your box. It may even help. Regular Kendall won't work the other way around in an LSD though, it needs the antifriction additive. I think Matt Monson told me that and he should know. Bottom line, easy drain and replace. But smart people say make sure you can open the fill hole before you open the drain hole...
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:33 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #101 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbogh901 View Post
Don't know if you have done this already. It's my understanding that the Kendall LS is fine for your box. It may even help. Regular Kendall won't work the other way around in an LSD though, it needs the antifriction additive. I think Matt Monson told me that and he should know. Bottom line, easy drain and replace. But smart people say make sure you can open the fill hole before you open the drain hole...
That's interesting. I heard the LSD additive is not good for the non LSD 915. I'll have to check my research on that. I still have the LS as it's too expensive to return. I did end up putting the other Kendall in A few weeks back. I only managed to snap one photo because it was precarious job with the potential for a huge mess. The pump doesn't fit! lol they told me it would fit! I think... I mean it says in the description fits ALL quart's ...yet the text below says half gallon/gallon (this is the reality).



And here is the description of the Hand Pump I bought from PP.



So I had to balance the hand pump on top of the quart. Eventually I cut the top off one quart and just held the pump in the open quart and pumped with the other hand. Then I would refill that cut quart with the other 3 quarts. Messy but I went slow to contain it all.

I removed my oil return tubes. Easiest job ever. Just a giant pair of channel locks and a bit of a gumption. Does anyone use that word anymore? :-)

I have the bursch headers in place of the thermo reactors so there's a fair amount of room to get in. We'll see about the install.





No turning back now. Oil tank is all buttoned up. While I was waiting on my new oil return tubes I took apart my doors again to put my drilled black powder coated door handles on. Only problem is the key on the black handles I bought was trashed, and my original 75 door key is in a sad state too.



I ordered two new cylinder key kits but it's been delayed getting to me and the passenger side cylinder is NLA. So I figure I'll put the new cylinder on the drivers side where it gets used and salvage one of the old ones and rekey it to the new key. Think I can rekey an old cylinder with only 10 of the key slider things? I'm guessing the two new keys that come with the cylinder are already cut right?





I may have to buy the rekey kit on ebay.

So now if I get the car running, the doors are all apart. Should have waited. :-(

The good news is, I remembered the passenger door lock was nearly impossible to unlock because it was sticky. I oiled up the lock mechanism and it works flawlessly now.
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Old 05-01-2016, 08:25 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #102 (permalink)
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At ease gentlemen.

Our oil crisis has been abated.

I'd like to present exhibit A:

Cardboard from under the car 10 hours later after a good drive and only a single drip hit the ground, though there are two spots with very slow leaks/weeps.



The source:


Here's the second area. didn't hit the ground, but hanging after 10+ hours



I'm close to tracking and killing this leak too. There have been a couple of bolts across the bottom of the case that have been sealed with some kind of ...sealer.

Putting the oil return tubes in was a pain, but after getting one in, the others were easier.



I found two appropriate sized hose clamps from my AIR pump delete and used the spread technique with two of those black pry bar / screwdriver things.



At the blue arrow, I found that one of my air injector plugs was leaking. I took it out to inspect and I had placed it on top of the old copper washer from the original air injector.

Assembling and installing the oil return tubes took about 3 hours.

I primed my fuel pump (installed the new filter I had never put in) and started it up and went for a gentle drive to get the oil all circulated and to check for any major leaks.

After that went to the store, shut it off and when I went to restart, was reminded of my hot start issue.

It seems that I may have goofed on the fuel pump install. It came threaded with a check valve fitting. That was removed for the existing banjo fitting.



Here it is before my bro-in-law removed it.


Questions time:

1. I've heard 74 was the last year of the check valve inside the banjo fitting. Is this correct? (meaning my 75 banjo fitting does not have one in it)
2. The bolt looks similar in function to the check valve seen threaded onto the pump in the second picture? Is that a bolt a check valve?

Someone else's picture but it shows the bolt and the check valve



My plan is to verify that I DO NOT have a check valve in already>
Then to discard the bolt, use the check valve we took out, use my existing banjo and buy a cap to put on the check valve after the banjo.
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:06 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #103 (permalink)
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Here's how I installed a Pierburg 721659700 fuel pump on my 1975 Targa and upgraded the fuel lines to the engine and the check valve. My car has the pump near the rear left wheel. The original black Polyamide fuel lines are 40 years old now and fragile. The Porsche banjo check valve is hard to find and expensive. If you have a poorly functioning or missing check valve, you will have a hot start problem for sure. A bad fuel accumulator will also affect the hot start, consider replacing it while you are in there.

I bought a non-Porsche, non-Bosch check valve, which installs with the adaptors included with the Pierburg pump. The designation on Ebay is "BOSCH 0580-254-044 Inline Check Valve -6AN 6 AN M12x1.5 For 044 Fuel Pump". I think it sells for about $40. The total length of the pump and check valve assembly looks too long, but it fits. Don't forget to use fresh crush washers, to make sure the assembly is leak proof.

Then I had Pegasus Racing make up a 48 inch Aramid 910 Braided PTFE Racing Hose, with two female swaged 6AN straight hose ends, about $150 delivered. The PTFE is good for the crappy alcohol blend fuel we all have to buy. I used a piece of stiff wire to plan the routing of the new line and determine its length. I didn't want any sharp bends. The new line is substantially larger in exterior diameter than the original black plastic line, but I attached it securely to the original mounting points underneath the chassis using black zip ties.

The connection to the accumulator is a little tricky, you have to mate the M14 DIN 3863/7608/3870 60 degree conical nipple accumulator connection to the 6AN fuel line. If such a fitting exists commercially, I can't find it. So I made my own. I carefully drilled out the center of a Aeroquip Steel Weld-In Bung FBM2872 - about $6, so that it was just a little larger than the original Polyamide barbed fitting (extras available at specialtauto dot com). Then I brazed the two together. The result is leak proof and easy to install. Len at Autosportengineering dot com might be able to make up something as well.

In retrospect, I would have gotten my fuel line made by Greg Brown, he sells the really good fuel lines from Goodridge and understands and stocks the correct DIN ends as well as the AN6 stuff. So with him there would have been no adapters necessary. Greg is really well known in the 928 world where there are an insane number and variety of lines.

I was concerned about heat/wear and tear on the Aramid fuel line so I covered the section near the pump with a DEI 010472 5/8 inch I.D. by 36 inch Insulating Fire Sleeve - about $30.

The fuel system works under pressure, make sure you take all relevant precautions and check the fittings to make sure you have no leaks during installation and again after a few hours of driving. Consider running new electrical wires to the pump, the Pierburg draws 12 amps, more I think than the original oem pump.

Total cost - about $230 plus the pump.


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Last edited by ericbash; 06-06-2016 at 05:11 PM.. Reason: typo
Old 05-02-2016, 03:21 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #104 (permalink)
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My 75 had the check valve in the banjo. Easy to check.
Old 05-02-2016, 04:46 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #105 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericbash View Post
Here's how I installed a Pierburg 721659700 fuel pump on my 1975 Targa
This was awesome! Thanks so much EricBash!

Honestly my fuel pump setup scared me. For several reasons:

1. The location of the pump, the age of the line and how low my car is. I already re positioned the line to be tucked up but the whole setup was just... lacking.
2. Being on fire hurts.

So I ordered the fittings that Eric outlined above from eBay and today I'll get the custom line ordered from Pegasus Racing.

I took the car out last night and I always think of this standup bit from Tosh about a waverunner.



You can't be mad driving a Porsche. I just break out into smiles and literal laughing out loud. It's a joy.

It's why people at stop lights look over and see you -and they feel a tinge of jealousy. Sure you have a giant ship eating grin and probably look like you are insane, but they know. Oh yes, they know.

Speaking of driving, I installed a Sein Systems 3" shifter extension. If you remember I'm 6'6" and with these legs, I gotta have the seat all the way back. Yes it's long. Yes, the throw is ridiculous. But hell, It's worth it to not bump my head on the roof leaning forward at an angle to shift. Combined with the 3" column extension, driving comfort is getting better.

BTW Seine was great. Fast and very responsive service!

I'll paint it all satin.



I installed a new ignition cover



I got these handles off an 82 SC coupe. They are the same right? The gaskets are the same too for 74-89 aren't they?

The fit seems suspect.







Next up is the fuel line install, suspension fix and then for my summer (my version of winter storage - Vegas Heat/no A/C) is RS carpet/rear seat delete and either recover my seats in pasha or go sparco / recaro (reclining ones)

On the suspension, on the back quarter that was hit, I think it sags. I goofed with indexing it like 6 times. It never matches the passenger side. That back corner is 1/2" lower. My front left is suspect too. Remember I found thread lock on the adjustment screw? Is it backing out making the driver side sag?

Here's my plan:
1. Adjustable spring plates. and possibly new torsion bar.
2. Fix a stripped bolt on the sway bar mount
3. Bigger rear tires 205/55 or even 215/45/15 -7" / euromeister/fuchs 16" X 7" all around with 205/55.
4. New shocks/inserts
5. turbo tie rods/replace boots / install bump steer kit.

Lastly, I decided what to do with the thermo reactors that I got.

What do you guys think of my new Yard Art?!?



It's entitled "Thermo Reaction" 1/1 not for sale.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:48 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #106 (permalink)
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Good job with the oil leaks. I hope I get similar results.
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Old 05-05-2016, 11:10 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #107 (permalink)
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Here is a photo of the installation of the fuel pump, adapter, check valve and fire sleeve, from below. The blue tape is to provide a reference for AN fitting tightening.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:03 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #108 (permalink)
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Fuel Line Install

'morning Pellicans.

Well I want to thank user Ericbash for inspiring me to fix up my fuel line. The hot start issue is gone! The old hose worried me and like I said, I generally try to avoid direct contact of fire to any parts of my skin.

FWIW my 1975 banjo fitting did not have a check valve inside it.

I had Pegasus Racing make up the same hose that Eric used and I was happy with their customer service and product.



I ordered the other fittings off eBay per Ericbash's part numbers.

The fittings to the pump were fine. I used the adapter included with the pierburg pump to go to my new check valve.



I thought the fire sleeve was a good idea. It does make the line a bit bulkier, but it did fit through the previous hole to the engine bay.



Unfortunately the plastic body clamps cannot be used to secure such a bulky hose. I'll need to find another way to keep it from vibrating too much. My hose seems too long. I either have it tucked more on the bottom than I should or it needs better routing. I think a 40 inch fuel line would have been better (than 48).

Eric's setup uses this second fitting to go to the accumulator. The seal is accomplished by using Permatex #2 liquid gasket.



I tried this setup and ultimately was not satisfied with that method. No offense to Eric, who I'm very grateful for providing part numbers and assistance.

Ultimately I decided against the AN fitting from the fuel line to the accumulator for several reasons:
1. The Permatex liquid gasket material could enter the fuel system. (as pointed out by Eric )
2. It simply doesn't provide a 'worry free' seal for me. I need a compression connection there for peace of mind.
3. The accumulator fitting is short, the AN blue fitting is long, It can be easily over tightened in an attempt to stop the leak and the threads gummed up. Also, you need a skinny 17mm to reach the accumulator fixed nut since these new AN fittings block access as opposed to the Porsche stock setup.

I ended up omitting the 2nd fitting and going directly from my fuel line hose. It provided a compression connection that I wanted...



I'd love to hear from race AX guys or whoever. Is this OK from a safety standpoint? My other option would be a short custom hard line using a short compression nut to go to the accumulator, then on the other end would be the 6AN female to the custom hose.

I grabbed my fire extinguisher on Saturday and went for a ride after checking for any leaks. No leaks and hot start issue is gone. Took a longer freeway ride yesterday and everything seems to be holding tight.

---------------------------------------------

A while back I also installed the LED gauge lights from Englebert here on the forums. Good dude, and fast delivery.

Unfortunately, my blinker lights are dim originals, that combined with the fact that my turn signal cancel is goofed or missing. So yeah, I'm that guy...with the blinker on.



I also picked up the Sway Away spring plates from another Pelican. I hadn't really read the forum feedback on these until after I made the purchase. Not a lot of happy customers it seems. Apparently the fit on the sway bar has to be filed..another guy posted his was separating. :-/ Maybe just squeaky wheels? What say you sway away owners?

Got me to thinking about why the driver rear sags when I THINK it's on the same torsion bar spline as the passenger side. It's the passenger side front is too high, pushing the back down. That is my theory at least. Obviously it'd be nice to corner weigh and see where I'm at, but we aren't at that point yet boys. Lot's of suspension upgrades need to happen between now and then.

I researched and found that I have Woodhead shocks. English made shocks? They don't seem too gooey for 40 year old shocks but the mounting rubbers are all shot.



Another bad decision by Porsche apparently. I guess midyears have these blue woodhead shocks. The rubber is all shot, so I think I'll pick up the rear Bilsteins when I put on the sway away spring plates.

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Old 05-16-2016, 07:55 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #109 (permalink)
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My midyear has green bilsteins. Perhaps a previous owner upgraded you to those.
Old 05-16-2016, 09:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #110 (permalink)
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Ha! ^ Well these Woodheads have to go.

I received the SAW spring plates that I bought last week.

I have some questions:

I know a lot of people recommend the polybronze bushings, but at $355 I'm not going that route.

Which bushings are these? They look/feel like plastic. I believe they are the original bushings from the SAW kit, but from some years ago. The current bushings provided by SAW are red correct?

I found a thread about the spring plate needing to be spaced out. Luckily it did include the spacer ring. I'm guessing the beveled edge goes into the torsion bar tube first. Is this correct?

The spacer is to ensure clearance against the body/spring plate.

Inner bushing that fits against the weld on the spring plate and into the torsion tube.




Spacer to space the spring plate away from the body.



My main question is - is the spacer direction correct?



Also what grease if any am I applying to these plastic bushings? And where?
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Old 05-20-2016, 09:11 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #111 (permalink)
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Well I can't work because it's eleventy billion degrees in my garage right now. I came to Vegas for the waters. I was misinformed.

So now I get to annoy you fine people.

Let me not be the first (or probably the last) to say that the plastic Polyurethane torsion bar bushings that come with the sway-away (aka weltmeister) Spring Plates are absolute garbage.

Yes it's true they have to be turned in a lathe to even think about going in properly. Unfortunately I'm fresh out of lathes in my garage. Not that it matters because I don't want to hear a bunch of squeaking when I drive around either.

I briefly entertained the idea of farming out someone turning them, or maybe trying to sand them myself to get them to fit, but ultimately a turd is a turd.

So time to blow some cash on polybronze bushings. Bronze? More like Gold -for how much they cost. But you get what you pay for my friends.

I started by removing the woodheads.



Give me Bilsteins or give me woodhead....said no one ever.

Here's your new home.



Schrecklich!



Then I cried a little inside as I blew my alignment.



My current rubber bushings are the original and they are completely wasted. They are completely lopsided and have bulges around the bottom portions on both sides.

Taking off the rockers was fun.


No plans to leave them off...Until now...They are a tad rusty from water collecting in the rubber. The area underneath will probably shine up nicely.



They came off much easier than I thought. This is the worst rust I've seen so far on this car. Not too bad. But definitely needs to be addressed.

I kinda like it...



I took them off because you have to do so to entirely remove the OEM spring plates. I also wanted to check my Torsion bars for any problems. So far the Right side one is fine. Haven't taken apart the left side yet because I got stuck trying to install the plastic bushings for the SAW spring plates.

First I froze the inner bushing overnight to try to shrink it. Then I used longer m10 bolts and a piece of wood to try to squeeze the bushing in. I was able to get it partially in but the amount of force was scaring me. I didn't want to strip out my torsion bar cover bolt holes. The SAW directions state that you should coat both sides with Moly but that didn't help slide it in, because it's quite a bit bigger than the hole. In other threads people have stated they clearly shaved off portions of the bush ....uh...to get it to fit.

When I removed it for inspection, one side of the bush was peeled back.

This is after I wiped all the moly off of it.



A lot of my hardware was trashed too, so I ordered a hardware kit from Elephant Racing to freshen up the build.

One last thing, I noticed one of my covers is bent. I may have done it or someone else with a badly placed jack. It looks compromised enough that I don't want to risk it, so that was another $$ unfortunate find.



I also picked up some new sway bar bushings. Wish for a cold front on my behalf.
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #112 (permalink)
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Here is my custom M14 DIN to AN6 fitting; used for the connection between the AN6 fuel line and the fuel accumulator.

The steel bung (Aeroquip Steel Weld-In Bung FBM2872) must be drilled to increase the interior passage to allow the M14 DIN 60 degree barbed fitting to just slip inside, allowing space for the brazing material to fill the area between the bung and the barbed fitting. Try not to drill all the way through, stop a few mm's before the end, this allows the barbed fitting to rest against the smaller original passage as a kind of "stop".



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Last edited by ericbash; 06-06-2016 at 05:25 PM..
Old 06-06-2016, 04:56 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #113 (permalink)
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aaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwwwww yeah!

ish just got real!



Thanks Chuck!
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Old 06-08-2016, 12:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #114 (permalink)
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Buenos Dias

As you can see I just wasn't happy with the sway-away spring plates and bushings. I decided that I wanted to go with the much nicer Elephant Racing adjustable spring plates. The fit and finish and design is much much better. I started by reading Craig_D's excellent suspension rebuild thread. Thanks Craig!



This is my brake caliper cleaning getup. I wet the area down with a spray bottle then use a handheld wire brush or small wire wheel.

If you do anything around the calipers it's best to use a 3m p100 labeled respirator or equivalent as asbestos are microscopic fibers that can become airborne and inhaled. Then it's "someone else cleans your poop" time, and no one wants that. No one.

I started by mounting the race bearings...



I didn't have a nail. So I used a small wooden dowel that came with a flower arrangement my wife threw out.



It does get messy, but cleans up easy.





I had a long weekend vacation in between sides. So the bottom had cured before flipping them over.

In the mean time I took to cleaning the passenger side trailing arm and torsion bar tube and outer torsion bar covers.



I also cleaned up the welds around my torsion bar tube. I used a grinder with a cutoff wheel and also a handheld flat metal file. yeah that that job is a *****.





Here's a "while you're in there" I'm replacing the sway bar bushings.

I have the stock rear 23mm sway bar. Old red one on the right.





Next up is mounting the Elephant racing polybronze bushings into the tbar covers. I test fit them and doesn't look like I need the polyurethane DAP on those. The test fit on the tbar tube seemed like I wont need it there either.
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Last edited by 75 911s; 06-16-2016 at 07:02 AM..
Old 06-15-2016, 02:22 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #115 (permalink)
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i had very little difficulties installing my sway a way spring plates. Yes, they need a bit work, but heck, for the price i am okay with that. Very good progress. Suspension totally changes the car. You will enjoy it ten folds.

Same here in South TX, already 100+ and we also have miserable humidity.
Old 06-15-2016, 06:02 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #116 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impactbumper View Post
i had very little difficulties installing my sway a way spring plates.
There were a few things that bothered me about them. If it was just one or two, I probably would have gone with the Sway Aways.

1. The inner splines have to be filed to fit. As a subset to this problem, another pelican complained of spline engagement, noting that the Sway Aways had very little. He cut the ends off, shortened them and re-welded them to make the splines fully engage.

2. Bushing is too large and is low quality and squeaks(problem I had)

3. The two pieces can separate (This isn't even the original thread I found, I found another one where a Pelican heard a loud boom, and his spring plate had separated and the wheel had bottomed out)

4. The Sway Away is heavier than the Elephant Racing qc spring plate (So said Chuck)

5. General forum consensus in all the Sway Away threads I searched was that they are vastly inferior to the ER.

6. You can quick change torsion bars using the ER qc torsion bars.

7. The Porsche section is lacking on the Sway Away web site. At first I thought it was down or missing. There is so little information there. I should have install instructions and pictures at the very least. The Elephant Racing racing website rocks.

SwayAway's site:


And now check out Elephant Racing.


I called Elephant Racing. I got the owner on the phone. I knew if I goofed up something, I could get help.

Ultimately I wanted to see something on my car and love it. I wasn't going to love the sway away setup.

I'm not saying the sway away can't work, I know a lot of you out there are running them with no issues. I just decided that I would opt for bit more quality. I love tinkering with the car, so changing out torsion bars or adjusting ride height will definitely be in my future.

---------------------------------

I ran out of space on the previous thread for pics, but here were a few more interior things I did.

I ordered Paul's "PRESS" stickers for the seatbelts. Huge improvement!







Sorry don't have a good finished pic. But they look nice.

I shot my seine shifter extension to match. The Rennline knob has a lot of space internally, so I lowered the knob on the 3" extension. Feels great and just long enough to reach 5th without having to lean.



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Last edited by 75 911s; 06-16-2016 at 07:08 AM..
Old 06-15-2016, 07:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #117 (permalink)
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Yep the sway a ways needed exactly what you described. I am not too happy about one thing you already pointed out, the bushings. They squeak. I will try to resolve that. Soon.


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Old 06-15-2016, 07:34 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #118 (permalink)
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Once again it's 1.21 gigawatt hot in my garage right now.

I was able to do some things inside though, such as prep the torsion bar cover bearings.



They pressed in firmly. I didn't use the polyurethane. I cannot move them by hand so I figured I was good.

These things are like jewelry!



I did get some early morning time to do more prepping on the T-bar holes.

It's a lot of painful dirty work using a wire brush wheel to clean out the burnt on rubber bushings and 40 years of crud.



I saw some others painted the area with Por15. I didn't want black there. Instead I used a flat white.



The main goal was just to prevent any rust. This area will be difficult to see with the spring plates and cover on. Not to mention the incredibly low stance.



The inner bearings fit great. The passenger side was pressed in with soapy water. The Drivers side was movable by hand, so I applied a coat of the polyurethane to that side.



Next up I'll fit the spring plates using the supplied washers for spacing, and grease them up with some extreme pressure grease I bought. Can't wait to put on the new hardware I got from Elephant too, should look pretty amazing.

Oh btw. I picked this RED brake caliper paint on sort of on an impulse. Not sure if I want to do it. Though I do think it would look good behind my murdered out cookies.



What do you guys think? Yay or nay on the Red Caliper paint?
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Old 06-20-2016, 11:41 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #119 (permalink)
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Good morning folks!

The heat is oppressive, so I woke up at 4am to get a little Porsche time in.

Also it has the advantage of being -not 110 degrees!- at that hour. 6am is usually the coolest, right before sunrise.



I made a short video of the ER spring plate install. I have both sides together now. It's a trick lining up the spring plate with the trailing arm. You just have to take it slow, use your jack effectively and not try to force anything.



BTW the Camber bolt is missing the washer on the drivers side in the video> It's on now.

I want to install Turbo tie rods while I have the alignment out of whack.

I'm wondering if I can borrow / rent / buy a used tie rod puller from any of you fine west coast people. Please PM me if you can. I would appreciate it. I might rent locally from an local auto parts store a similar puller.

Also what say you on the turbo tie rod kits? Pelican kit? or ER?

Finally, I want to put new inserts into my front black boge struts and I'll also be installing the bump steer kit.

Please chime in!
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Last edited by 75 911s; 06-24-2016 at 09:52 AM..
Old 06-24-2016, 05:36 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #120 (permalink)
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