What I didn't show in my diagram is a 30 Amp fuse between the 12V source and Poles 30/85. The extra redundancy doesn't hurt even though there is a fuse elsewhere in the circuit already.

On the connector side I should have just shown the other connector as Negative instead of Ground. I'll update it shortly. Only the three switches should go straight to ground. I'll likely use a ground point close to the Bearing Bracket.

Here's an updated wiring diagram done in PowerPoint.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1440692263.jpg

Agree, if this 12V source is the original fused source then you'll be ok. Wasn't clear in your previous post. If you're going to add extra fuses, match them to the one in the fuse panel which is 8A from memory but check. 30A is too high a rating.

I love this forum, without it I frankly wouldn't be able to afford to maintain my P car; Adding to the fact that working on the car is almost as fun as driving it.

I've come across a lot of these re-engineered brake switch solutions and thought that when I needed to, I'd wind up going the same route. Yesterday thought, I changed the existing two pole switches with ATE switches from our host, with the right 22mm offset wrench and 22 mm long socket it took me me all of 20 minutes to get the job done. That included catching four drops of brake fluid on a rag and clean up.

I think this is one of those why re-invent the wheel type solutions. I appreciate the alternative thinking that goes on and I'm guilty of the same on many other projects in my car, but on this one I went the Porsche route. When the switches stop doing what they're supposed to again in a few years time, it will take me 15 minutes to redo I'm sure.

I think one of the advantages of the mechanical switch is the ability to adjust for earlier activation. My brake lights come on with the slightest touch of my brake pedal.
Dave

Question(s)
 

Hi 'TAG'..I have two new switches that I was going to replace when I next have a shop re&re the brake fluid.
#1. Do only 'a few' drops come out when reinstalling new ones?

#2. Dave, I have the same issue as we all do, and that is where the brake lights only go on under pressure. What, how and where did you do install a mechanical switch? I also have Spokes LED's with the cruise problems. How did the resisters work out that Spoke sent you? - Thanks.

I used the exact solution pictured in the second picture in the first post on page one of this thread. I used a Hyundai brake light switch:

Amazon.com: Hyundai 93810-3K000 Brake Light Switch: Automotive

I wired the switch in parallel with my existing switches and used them only to switch a relay controlling fused power to the brake lights themselves.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/626191-carerra-sc-mechanical-brake-light-switch-install.html

Spoke has not yet sent me my resistor enriched LED boards. I am confident they will be perfect. I don't have any cruise control mechanism, so I would be OK just disconnecting the CC brain. I figure I should get the resistor version in case at some future date I want to enable the CC.
Thanks,
Dave

Hi Dave... Thanks for the info. I somehow ended up on page two and I had not read
page one...Sorry about that.

When you remove the old switches, the MC will bleed a little, if you're quick from the time the old switch is threaded off and thread the new switch back in, you'll only lose a couple of drops each. I wedged a wet rag below the MC to catch any brake fluid just in case.