what else is on power window circuit?
 

I have a parasitic drain that I am troubleshooting. I cleaned the door switches and verified the power window relay de-energizes after either door is opened. The strange thing is I still am drawing current via the power window circuit even with the relay at rest or even if I remove the relay completely.

What else is on the power window circuit?

I think the power seats and seat heaters, but I thought that fuse (F1, 25A, luggage compartment fuse block 3) was downstream of the window relay - so with the relay out, they'd be starved if I am reading the schematic right. Can you say where in the ckt you are taking the current measurement? Key in or out? Doors open or closed?

AC too.

I am measuring the current draw in series between the battery and the ground strap. When the window relay is energized, I am getting 0.25mA and it drops to 0.15mA after some time OR when I open a door. When I pull the window fuse however it almost goes to zero current draw.

I just discovered that the AC blower motor is tied to that fuse also so thanks for that. Why would there be a draw though at rest from the AC with the key out and doors closed?

How do you know it's AC? Power seats and seat heaters also were mentioned.

I do not know the 3.2 but if you unplug the potential culprits, you may get lucky and find the AMP draw drops off.

Then you can get into serious searching.

Thanks - you are correct. I was focused on the windows but looks like I was off a fuse. Fuse 2 is really the seats and heaters. If I listen carefully, I can hear a relay click with I connect fuse 2 - this seems wrong. Maybe my seat heater relay has failed. The driver seat heat doesn't work which is making very suspicious. More digging!

Ok...so I found the mysterious clicking relay. Its the DME relay. Why would it be powered when the car is off? Seems like it should be getting ignition switched power? Back to studying the diagrams.

sorry I split for some labor day dog and burger -

DME really should be dead w/ no key.
Are you going by the Bentley manual?
Good luck and let us know how it's going.

Made some progress today. The DME relay is hot all the time...and has been for 10+ years likely or until the battery goes dead. This is definitely wrong.

I found the black wire behind the fuse box that goes to the DME. I pulled it from the always hot terminal block marked with red tape and moved it to the blue one which is keyed power only.

Almost everything seems to work. Parasitic draw is gone. DME only clicks with the ignition. Here is the funny thing though. If the door is open, it will not start. If you close the door it will start.

I think its due to the power window relay and I should probably find a better switched power location.

Does anyone know where the black DME wire with a female blade connector is supposed to go inside the fuse box? I don't see any other open spade connectors.

I should note that in my large collections of receipts, the main wiring harness was replaced at one time so things like this are not terribly surprising. The various wiring diagrams are more an aid that exactly accurate I find.

Congrats on the progress!
Are you asking about the power to the DME relay itself?
Do you happen to have a car alarm?