Heater Flap/Box mounting studs.

[RSW]

Ok so I've snapped all the mounting studs at the passenger side heater flap box. The 101 book says these are welded in at the factory and they are a pain if they snap.

Has anyone got any ideas of how to mount the new flap/box now?

Surely I aren't the first to have this problem.

Many Thanks

RIchard

[s_wilwerding]

I just read a thread about this the other day. I believe somebody mounted the new flapper box and had a muffler shop spot weld them to the broken studs. As long as you don't anticipate changing them out again any time soon (and if you buy new ones you shouldn't have to), this should work for you.

[cary]

Is the engine in or out ???

One of mine broke off. When I was cleaning them up and changing heater cables. I welded in a new stud with my wire feed.
But be REAL careful, all that undercoating wants to ignite. Get it cleaned up real good before you go welding .

Short term fix, maybe a Stainless Steel screw to hold it in place.

[john walker's workshop]

if just one stud breaks, just leave it. all three is definitely a problem, as there's no room to work up there. a couple of spot welds would be easiest. even trying to drill a couple of holes for screws is a joke. marinate those nuts overnight if they look rusty, and if they still won't turn, do it again.

[47silver]

are you mounting the a new one from pelican? my son and i did this about a month ago, all of the studs snapped. and i said a few choice words about the design. i noticed that there was a little thread left on the stud so i tried the pelican flapper on with out the gasket and it left a tad of thread.
The flapper is formed with a bulge that keeps the hole away from the frame. i put the flapper in a vise and compressed it to make the edges flat, so i would have more thread to work with. i was able to get all 3 nuts on and i tightened them down and then removed one at a time we were able to get a washer on 2 of them. i also put on the stuff so that you can take them off later. it is at the parts store too.

hope this works for you. if there is even 3/8 of an inch of stud you can get it to work i think.

gary


screwed on.

[Targa Dude]

You could grind off the Nub till flush, drill a .343 dia. hole and install a Rivstud
These actually work pretty good.. it's not a temporary fix at all.

Jorge (Targa Dude)

[Doug Zielke]

Great call, T Dude!
I have used them (Rivstuds and Rivnuts) and they are a teriffic product for anything that doesn't require *huge* tensile or sheer strength. Perfect for the flapper box re & re.

[Rot 911]

How do you get those to hold? Is it like a regular rivet that you use a rivet gun with or do you have to hammer on the back side?

[island911]

they *are* a teriffic product. . .even for applications that do require *huge* tensile or sheer strength. You just need the right size, and load them in the correct direction.

[Doug Zielke]

Kurt,
You draw them up with a special little tool. The inside part mushrooms/collapses, and it grips very tightly.

island....whatever you say; just don't use them to replace Dilivar head studs.

[island911]

Originally posted by Doug Zielke
. . . just don't use them to replace Dilivar head studs.

heh heh. okay, but I have used them to mount a huge panel antenna. ~25 sqr feet with a design load from a 120 mph buffeting wind. You should have seen that thing dance, mounted to one of Boeings shaker (induced vibration) tables. It would give you a lot of respect for what these things will take.

As far as special installation tools, I'm guessing your thinking of PEM type of press-in inserts. These riv-nuts install by running a screw through them, essentially. (or a nut for the stud type)

EDIT:while there is a tool to speed installation, it's not needed for the DIY'er

[island911]

For those interested, my perference on this type of fastener is AVK. The link is their home page. there are lot's of distributors of their product.

[Todd Simpson]

For anyone who hasn't done this nasty job yet, soaking the studs with liquid wrench a day in advance then hitting them with a torch really helps. I got 5 out of 6 off cleanly this way, using only a little torque then working them back and forth helps too.

Where the 1 stud broke, I drilled a small hole and put a self tapping screw.

[RSW]

Thanks for all you advice - I like the sound of those rivits/studs although I've never seen them in th eUK - I'm sure some one will stock them.
I managed to get one nut on as there was just enough thread - I'll try flattering the rim and see if I have any more luck. Do I need that gasket on there?

Also When I spin my fan controll (it's the electronic sort) to position 1 from 0 it seems to open the flaps all the way? If i then go to position 2,3,4 etc no further movement occures?
I have the engine and box out of the car (STILL!) but I don't think this would make any difference.

ANy further thoughts - or does it just need adjusting at the switch end?

Thanks Again
RIchard

[sf2oc911sc]

Thanks for all the advice. Gonna attempt this soon. Both of my boxes are disintegrated. Is it recommended to change the cable as well? Does the gasket come with the replacement boxes?

[Cbad-box]

I painted my engine bay and replaced the flappers. I believe I had to order the gaskets seperate from the flappers. Be carefull with the studs, I snapped several and had to drill them out for threaded inserts. Some pictures of the process...

[burgermeister]

Seems one could cut out a gasket-shaped plate of sheetmetal to fit (don't forget big hole in middle), weld new studs onto the plate (off car, using the new flapper box as a template), punch / drill a few holes in the plate, and puddle weld (aka Mig "spot weld") said plate over the opening. Voila, new studs.

[robmog]

a slightly different way.
1) broken stud
2) cut off flush
3) 5 mm drill thru center and m6 metric tap
4) cut head off m6 bolt
5) screw in bolt
6) braze bolt to frame
good as new and looks correct