3.2 DIY Valve adjust - lessons from a first timer/total noob
 

hello all, thought i would share my experience as a first timer doing this job. (I did the traditional method with .004 feeler gauge)

1. I spent 2 nights, bent my feeler blade all to heck, and was nearly driven to tears trying to find the gap. In desperation, I called a local Porsche mechanic to get a quote on just the valve job. he said "expect up to $1000". Outrageous, sir! I found new motivation after that call.
2. As a last resort I decided to loosen the nut and screw on each valve generously, and then pull on it. Aha! There was the elusive gap.
3. After finding the gap, I then tightened up the valve screw to find that "magnetic drag" clearance. Some others have described this as the resistance felt when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a glass.
4. I inherited my 89 targa 3.2 from my dad who best as i can tell *never* had a valve job done in 26 years of ownership and 72,000 miles (thank goodness that's all it was). yikes. Anyway, from what i read valves get tighter over time, opposite of what i thought, which explains why my first attempts to find the gap failed - all 12 valves were tight and under .004.
5. Marking Top Dead Center on my engine pulley with a drop of the wife's red nail polish helped. My pulley had unmarked notches, and no z1, etc on it.
6. I found this video to be the most comprehensive and helpful treatment of this procedure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dS7jtsx-t_4

time: 5 nights this past week and probably 6-8 hours spread out over those nights
cost: $50 in oil, $10 oil filter, $30 valve cover gaskets
telling a Porsche mechanic "no thank you" to a $1000 valve job: PRICELESS.

Congratulations, it feels good to conquer a 1000.00 quest. It's a PITA job. I have done it once with the help of another Pelican friend. It's amazing what you can do when you're motivated. Could you tell much difference how she ran after? Tim

The learning curve is pretty steep, but next time it will only take half that time, and lots less frustration because you know you can do it, and there are no real gotchas as long as you follow the procedure. Good work!

That was exactly what I did my first time adjusting valves (1000 years ago) too.

Your $1,000 mechanic is a total absolute rip off. Tell him to sell his boat.

Next time would be much easier........
 

Frank,

You are a good example to other DIYers. I don't know if you have a lift or not or simply used jack stands. You could make the next valve adjustment easier and convenient by removing the engine tin between the valve covers. Your access to the valves would be better and better visual. And using the right tools makes the valve adjustment fun and enjoyable. Good job.

Tony

Nice work, i did my first valve job a few months ago. I tried a combination of the regular feeler gauge and backside method. I split the work up over two days, afterwards i wasnt quite confident in how it came out. Last week i did the valve job again and this time used the tool from Kirk Engines. I finished the job in about 4 hours and about 30-40 minutes of that was spent familiarizing myself with how to use the tool. 2nd time around the engine sounds much better!

Had a horrible time my first try. Finally did it using the back side method while I had the engine out of the car for other maintenance. Makes the job much easier to have good access. Considering the mileage I put on each year, I will probably just wait until I drop the motor before I do it again. I intend to drop the engine every few years for routine maintenance anyways. Had it out twice last year - once because I wanted to and once because my clutch fork broke. ALWAYS replace your clutch fork when doing a clutch job (915 tranny in an 84).

Not necessary, but I know what you mean.

Tim, I haven't started her up yet because while I was doing the valves, I noticed this!

Again, no telling how long Dad had driven around with a ripped boot. So I am replacing the whole half axle just to be safe. On to the next DIY project...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1443397703.jpg

Transmission looks very clean, looks like you've got a great low mileage car. Good luck with your projects. Tim

I've always considered a "valve job" to be much more involved than a "valve adjustment." But $1000 seems too cheap for a "valve job" (remove heads, install new guides, grind valves etc) so I don't think your mechanic misunderstood what you wanted.

WDFifteen, yes I should have been clearer in my terminology in my post. I meant valve adjustment. No, this guy didn't misunderstand one bit. I said I needed my valves adjusted, & he started talking about how he would do new spark plugs, distributor cap + rotor, etc. (basically a 15k service) and I said "no, no, I've done all that myself very recently, right down to new spark plug wires & fuel filter. I literally just need a quote on what it would take for you to adjust my valves." And he still quoted me a Grover Cleveland. Maybe he was trained in Stuttgart or something.

And I'm gonna save another $1000 when I replace that axle! 6 hex bolts already off tonight, the 32mm beast nut hopefully comes loose tomorrow.

It would have been easier for you to have first loosened the 32mm nut first with the car on the ground by accessing it through the wheel w/the center cap removed. That nut is really tight...something like 220 ft/lbs torque. You are going to have a hell of a time getting that thing off without the hub rotating. You can insert a screwdriver into the slots between the rotor surfaces but then as the nut loosens the axle shaft will start rotating because it's not attached at the other end.

Valves don't need to be loosened off then adjusted back to what they probably were already.

In 20 something years of SC ownership, and checking the valves every year, I would have only adjusted a total of half a dozen valves. If you are needing to adjust them all each year your car has some serious wear issues going on and you should address than first.

You should be able to feel the slightest movement or tick tick when wiggling them. And if you feel this then they are fine and leave them alone.

If the car hadn't been driven, that boot probably just split when you jacked it up. Doesn't look like grease has been thrown around. A new boot w/o totally removing the axle would probably do the trick. Replace them all because of the old rubber.
I adjusted valves three times with a feeler gauge... torture. I bought the Kirk engine adjusting tool and used it for the first time a month ago. Had the job completed before noon & felt very confident that it was done right. I'll NEVER to back to using a feeler gauge. That Kirk tool is worth its weight in gold...

Great advice Michael, and thanks! Told you I was a noob. Reason No. 857 why I belong to this board. I'll bolt the inner boot back up tonight, so I can put wheel back up and get the nut off.