4 jack stands necessary

[kyngfish]

A few questions to DIYers. I need to do the motor mounts, tranny mounts and tranny fluid for my 911. Is it better to have it up on 4 jack stands or 2?

I'd like the car to be level, but I also worry about safety. I'll have a floor jack under the car but I will be using it to hold up my motor or tranny most of the time.

Level of difficulty for this project?

Thanks!

[midnight911]

don't need the car to be level for the mounts but for the gear oil, nice to have it level. all easy work. just don't spill that stinking gear oil.

[SoCalSK8r]

I'd use a set of ramps and blocks to get the car level for the gear fluid.

None of these are hard tasks, but be sure to see if you can loosen the fill plug before you drain the tranny.

I'd say level 1 difficulty.


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[Koizumi]

The higher the better. You prolly will need room for leverage because lotsa people love to overtighten the transmission drain and fill plugs

[DRACO A5OG]

OP,

What year is your car, if an 87-89 ( G50 ), the trans mounts is the whole assembly.

If a 915, assuming the car is warm, just raise the rear end, place on jack stands at TB caps, leaving the jack in place, loosen the cross member bracket bolts (2 each side) then remove the ttrans mount bolts (2), lower the gear box a bit and remove the mounts and replace with new ones. Insure the bolts are straight, the trans mount bolts are very easy to cross thread.

As for the gear lube, take this time to insure the fill plug can come off, if not stop. You need to insure the fill cap can be removed. DO NOT DRAIN THE LUBE until fill plug can be removed. If good, proceed to draining the lube.

While draining, lower the car and bounce on the bumper to remove the pre-load. We want her level ( a warmed gear box is best time to drain, as noted above )

Assuming you bought a cheapo pump at the FLAPS, replace drain plug, torque to spec, route the fill hose tip into the fill plug and start pumping away. It will take about 3.25 quarts of lube or stop when you see fluid coming out of the fill plug, let it continue to drip until it is barely dripping. That's it.

Alternatively, you can raise the driver side, open the fill plug then the drain plug, lower then fill up as above.

[kyngfish]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

OP,

What year is your car, if an 87-89 ( G50 ), the trans mounts is the whole assembly.

If a 915, assuming the car is warm, just raise the rear end, place on jack stands at TB caps, leaving the jack in place, loosen the cross member bracket bolts (2 each side) then remove the ttrans mount bolts (2), lower the gear box a bit....

Thanks for the detailed response. Quick question, why lower the trans? I thought the weight of the trans on the bracket was down and I would have to lift up the trans to take the weight off the bracket. Not lower.

Thanks!

[wayner]

To get your feet wet on this project, just put a jack under the engine to hold its weight, and replace the rear engine mounts while the car is still on the ground. Piece of cake that part

[gptom]

when I refill, I fill till full & then wait 1/2 hour to check if it will accept more. sometimes the oil takes a while to make its way to the bottom over the gears etc

[gtc]

Don't forget to brace the engine crossbar when you remove the engine mount bolts. If the mounts are old and the bolts are tight, the ends of the bar can bend or even tear off.

[sugarwood]

I vote 4 jackstands.

The higher the car, the easier the job (tranny mount and gear oil)
Gear oil fill plug may need a cheater pipe. You may need clearance from the ground.
Tranny mounts are annoying to work at when right next to your face.

I did not loosen any tranny cross beam. I just removed that fuel pump cover plate (PITA to reinstall, worst part of the job)
and just replaced each mount one at a time.

Need encouragement (and help) to attempt gearbox motor mounts replacement.
Fill plug on 915 gearbox has blocked clearance

[OsoMoore]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

I vote 4 jackstands.

The higher the car, the easier the job (tranny mount and gear oil)
Gear oil fill plug may need a cheater pipe. You may need clearance from the ground.
Tranny mounts are annoying to work at when right next to your face.

I did not loosen any tranny cross beam. I just removed that fuel pump cover plate (PITA to reinstall, worst part of the job)
and just replaced each mount one at a time.

Need encouragement (and help) to attempt gearbox motor mounts replacement.
Fill plug on 915 gearbox has blocked clearance

When I did my fluid, I did it by sitting on the ground next to the car with the little hose from the pump routed into position with the rear wheel off. This ensured the transmission was level, without requiring me to do the four jack lift.

For the engine mounts, if the bolts don't start releasing with moderate pressure, get some rust penetrator, spray, and try again 2 hours later. Bending or breaking your mount is quite possible if you apply a lot of pressure, and quite expensive.

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by kyngfish

Thanks for the detailed response. Quick question, why lower the trans? I thought the weight of the trans on the bracket was down and I would have to lift up the trans to take the weight off the bracket. Not lower.

Thanks!

To slip the mounts out of the cross member, you will find there is very little room. Alternatively you can remove the 4 bolts that mount the cross member to the gear box but holding the nuts on the opposite side is a challenge.

Once you get under there you will see what I mean.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by HarryD

Markus,

Hope it goes well tommorrow.

Tonight, soak the plugs in penetrating oil.

Tommorrow, when you have the removal tool properly seated, give it few whacks with a hammer. The shock/vibration may help it to loosen.

When you reach that happy moment that you will add the new oil back into the transmission, jadams1 has a great addition to my funnel method:



I wish I had thought of using my step ladder. As it was, I stood next to my car, slowly adding SWEPCO into the funnel I held in my hand. It was very "zen-like" to watch it slowly disappear.

Good luck.

From a previous post.

[kyngfish]

Any tips on avoiding bending the engine crossbar. I've seen a dozen warnings about how the welding is weak but no advice on how to do it.

I don't have an impact wrench and it looks like my mounts are original 1986. Am I good with some socket and box wrenches? WD40? I also can't find any good comprehensive DIY threads. Any pointers are welcome!

Thanks

[beren]

4 is the best for safety.