how do you clean your cylinders?

[Tim Walsh]

now that I've stripped down my engine about as far as I need to, what's the best way to clean out the clogged fins? Pressure washer?, long skinny sticks?
here's what it looks like right now

[Doug Zielke]

Glad you asked, Tim.
On my first time down this path, I found the ratio of parts cleaning to actual wrenching is about 5:1.

Anyway, I carefully plugged all the holes, rolled the engine on the stand out into the driveway, and connected the garden hose to a hot water tap. I do have a pressure washer, but didn't use it for fear of driving some water into where it should not be.

I had several spray cans of citrus degreaser, and some old toothbrushes, and a couple of new parts cleaning brushes.
It took me about 3 hours, and I've seen dirtier motors than mine.
The neighbors enjoyed the show!
So far, I consider this the worst part of the entire rebuilding job.

[Tim Walsh]

sounds like a start. It's no so much gunk as it is leaves that have been pushed between the fins.

the other peice that really needs cleaning is the throttle bodies but that shouldn't be more than just soaking and cleaning them in parts cleaner. The throttle bodies were nearly seized with gunk.

[Early_S_Man]

Tim,

It looks like you are a few hours work away, yet, from being at the point of needing solvents or washing!

Assuming that you have already drained the sump ... I suggest removing the air deflector tin retaing clips above the cylinders, and turning the engine upside down and removing the sheet metal air deflectors from below the cylinders. Then, you can use popcsicle sticks or tongue depressor sticks -- available at hobby/craft store such as 'Hobby Lobby' -- to force the leaves and gunk between the cylinder fins back out the direction from which it came. At some point you will need a large wire brush to work on the upper and lower fins of the cylinders ... to get as much residue loose as possible. Several 'inversions' of the engine may be necessary during the 'mechanical' stage of the cleaning process!

Once the majority of the gunk has been removed/loosened ... then, you are ready to proceed with solvents, more brushing and rinsing, and degreasing steps. Again, I suggest beginning from the underside of the engine, then invert and proceed from the topside. Good luck!

[Tim Walsh]

that sounds good.. just have another question.. what's the best way to invert the engine/transmission unit? I'd rather not seperate the two since the clutch is supposedly good but if that's the best way then I'll go for it. I'd just rather not make extra work for myself.

[Tim Walsh]

oops I missed a pic. this might help show how bad it is.

[Early_S_Man]

Tim,

One note regarding your second pic ... oil pressure and overflow lines to MFI pump are still 'open' and subject to contamination! I suggest duct tape on them to prevent debris/solvent entry. Removal and cleaning or replacement before engine is put back in service would be a good idea!

Three or four strong friends to help invert the approx. 500 lb 'package' onto a couple of shipping pallets is the only thing that comes to mind ...

Having the engine on a stand would obviously be preferrable to lesser Brute-force methods of rotating the engine block, but ... make do with what you have in terms of resources!

[Tim Walsh]

yep yep. those lines got closed up before the I left for the day. I"ll have to think about how to do the rotating. It'll be a pain.

[dtw]

Are you doing a full rebuild? If so just degrease and pressure wash it. 30 mins of minimal hassle. Do it on an engine stand so you can turn it like rotisserie chicken and get all the nooks and crannies.

That's what I did with mine, and it was like disassembling a brand new engine it was so clean. Just disassemble it very soon after the pressure washer treatment- you don't want all that water sitting in the engine.

[lcjjbeav]

You've got the oil mess but I've got that and the mice nest in my 2.2.

Is this tensioner stock for a 1970 2.2e? Check out the adjustment bolts looks like course thread.

[Tim Walsh]

At this point I"m really not sure what I'm gonna end up doing but right now I'm planning to clean out the mice crap and whatever else happened since he put in storage. I could buy a engine stand but is the $250 worth it when I don't need to seperate the engine and transmission to clean out all the junk sitting on the cylinders. BUT................
today I pulled off the cat and muffler and of all things a quart of oil drained out. Any idea's on how that showed up?

Lc, I'm dealing wiht the mice's nest on the cylinders and the fact that the PO overfilled the oil and blew oil everywhere. And those look like stock tensioners to me.

[dtw]

zuffenhausen and I just got done disassembling an overfilled 2.7 that he picked up for cheap. The 2.7 had only been run briefly after the overfill. Of course it was difficult to tell if there had been any permanent damage, since there was oil everywhere.

When we split the case we found that the o-ring on the nose bearing was blown.

Dunno what the background is on your engine, but it may be worth your while to split it, clean it, inspect it, and reseal it. If the engine was in otherwise good condition, you may get off with minimal expenses.

[Tim Walsh]

ya that might not be a bad idea.. I really don't know much about this car, so my plan of attack is to pull it, clean the outside, put it back together and start it up. If it blows oil everywhere or something else nasty then I'll pull it again and tear it down.

[Early_S_Man]

beav,

that isn't a stock tensioner at all! It is a mechanical tensioner for racing engines ... intended to be adjusted when the engine is warmed up and at running temperature. There is no compensation for changes in temperature ... where it is set is where it stays!

[Tim Walsh]

woaw.. S you're right.. I was just lookin' for the oil feed lines, when I didn't see any I assumed they were standard. I had totally forgoten about the solid tentioners

[dtw]

Tim- actually Warren was referring to those purple-anodized dealies in beav's engine. We haven't seen yours yet...

[Tim Walsh]

that's what I'm looking at too. I'll probably open mine up some time this week just to make sure they're in good condition.

[lcjjbeav]

Thanks for the confirmation on the tensioners. My thoughts are to reuse them for now until I get this engine running, can always update them later.

Opening up an old unfamiliar engine is one of those "box of chocolates" type deals. Hmmm, maybe I have a set of 2.2s pistons in this e.......

beav.