Trying to get it running properly with pics.
 

I'm just trying to get this thing running right, everyday I find something new to frown about.
Pic 1 The boots from air box to runners are starting to deteriorate. Are these replaceable with out dropping engine? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445190534.jpg


These two gray wires seem to go to nowhere in their current state....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445190588.jpg


It's possible they are the other end of these wires?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445190707.jpg


These two wires run to the coil...The tach works at idle,but when the revs go up past 2k it drops to zero and stays there until the revs go down then pops back to idle speed.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445190783.jpg



Wires in previous pic on coil
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445190981.jpg


Three wires that have no home...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445191035.jpg

Ouch, some people shouldn't be allowed to touch stuff- good luck in sorting it all out.

In your lower picture, the brown/black wire goes into the connector with the other brown/black wire.

You can replace all of the CIS without dropping the motor, although many if not most suggest that it is easier and faster with the motor out; I just did mine on a '77 by just doing the partial drop and it went okay.

The wiring is a mystery to me, too.

But the bad rubber boots from the runners to the airbox can be changed without dropping the engine, even partially. I changed mine with 'everything' in place - obviously the runners come off to do the job. But, it would be a good idea to get new gaskets for the runner to engine connection. You don't want to introduce a new air leak in the process of fixing another one.

Somebody has made some unique wiring changes to your car.
Where is the CDI box? It isn't where it should be...

Notice the connections to the coil.. Conventional coil
Bruce

No cdi box present. I do t know what's supposed be there and what's not. Changed plugs tonigjt. Have crappy plug wires to say the least. Cleaned plug boots no cracks. Runs better....but not what I think it's supposed to run like. For what it's worth my first car was a 75 Camaro....first year for hei so really no points and condeser experience for me. Sad to say......and I'm 47.....this has got me going old SCHOOL for sure.

Converted to old school Kettering points only. Interesting ...

What does hat mean????
I'm old school but, only to an extent...

In addition to fixing the wiring, etc... I would suggest that you replace the engines mounts; yours have seen better days. Then also replace the transmission mounts, for the same reason.

Kettering points mean that the low voltage side of the coil is switched directly by the points. The points opening and closing causes the coil to discharge and the plugs to fire. With the CDI, the points are a signal to the CD unit to discharge and send voltage to the coil. The points see much less voltage with a CDI and last longer.

It looks as though power to the coil is run directly from the white "T" connector on the black sheathed wire and the tach signal is being picked up by the Blue wire from the negative post on the coil back to the "T" connector in your photos.
As described by MDamen, U.S. '60's cars still used that style of ignition. I wonder if a condenser was installed in the Distributor too...
The cut off white wires are likely the remains of the original wiring for the CDI system that was removed for some reason.

I've just rebuilt my CIS without a full drop. It's doable, but your back will feel it. A partial drop helps.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/883042-air-leakage-intake-manifold-sleeves.html

If I plug the two brown wires together the fuel pump stops and the car dies...interestinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448764910.jpg

You can't run that ignition system for long without a condenser for the points and ballast resistor for the coil. Since you have no cdi, at least upgrade to an msd box and coil. While you're at it a Pertronix to replace the points will give you a solid and reliable ignition system for about $300.

Awesome thank you for that info...Do you think that's maybe why the tach doesn't work correctly? It's not receiving the correct signal from the ignition? Needs a CDI signal or ?
It works at idle up to about 2k and any revs past that it drops to zero.