that's one problem the guy before me really reefed on the nuts, I think some were damaged a bit. It was hard to separate the lock nut from the adjusting screw.

I thought it was tricky until I started using this tool. Make it really easy. Tighten down the screw gently, then back off until the right indicator is where the left won just was. Here are a couple of versions of the tool I have built.

Based on the theory that the threads are 1mm per turn to .1 is 10% of a turn or 36 degrees. the angle is 36 degrees.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445914594.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1445914632.jpg

I have one of those tools with the two little pointers. It worked kinda ok for me, but after a few valve adjustments, I found that just using the little feeler gauge tool was the easiest to get consistent results with. I suppose it's that 'magnetic drag' feel that many speak of, but it really does feel like that.

I do like JW suggests and tighten the nut with the gauge still in there, and then drag it out after. If you can get it out, it's not too tight. If it falls out, the adjustment is still too loose. When checking your adjustment and can't get the gauge back in - I never can - the backside is an easy way to check your work.

Again, as mentioned, practice makes it much, much easier. Don't worry if it sucks the first time as the next will be much better. And give yourself lots of time so you can go back to it the next morning when you get frustrated. Good luck!

I'll never do another adjustment without using the Kirk Engines adjustment tool. Makes it so much easier & takes the guesswork out of the job...When the dial says you're there, it's done!

I have the kirk tool, and also the feeler gauges for doing the backside method. I'm going to redo the job, with the kirk, checked by the backside because this is what I have. Once I can feel comfortable with the tool then I'll just go with it.

I was rushed by a tropical storm and rented lift. So buttoned it up but noticed a much louder ticking noise and so have no confidence in what I had done.

For John Walker, I intend to learn how to do it right, once I have the proper tools.

This is my basic driver car, so I need it running.

Amen! Couldn't agree more.

Think about it, the Kirk unit is a very precision tool. It's very similar to the vernier cutting tool position unit on a metal cutting lathe. The vernier markings in thousandth/in on the dial of a lathe are based upon thread pitch, the same principle as the Kirk tool!

So, did you use the Kirk tool initially? I've been on the fence as to whether to buy it or not. I have a lift, and carbs, and headers, so should have a little more space\comfort for doing this.

Loud = loose - at least you're on the safe side of the spectrum (too tight and you could burn a valve).

Todd

I have one of those little screw driver and wire tools and it works like a charm. I love it. see post and pics above. Bought mine from a guy on the 964 board Rennlist

I bought one of those gizmos and used it once. Ended up w/ noisy valves. Problem is when you move the screwdriver, the wire marking device moves as well. Your point of reference disappears into thin air & you need to form a mental picture of just where the wire was when you move the second wire into its position. I'm not clever enough to remember precisely where the wire was in mid air before it moved away; maybe others are... Anyway, the Kirk tool is the way to go IMO.

35+ years of air cooled valve adjustments, I bought the Kirk Tool and cut my adjust time in 1/2. Feeler gauges are great if you know what the proper "feel/drag" is, problem is it is much like an art form, and the time consumer is getting the feeler guage in to place. If you have to loosen the adjuster to get it into place, you have to adjust it anyway The Kirk gives the same end result in half the time. I have been using micrometers and vernier devices since high school, and the precision for the process is well within the range available for feeler gauges. While I can use paper and pencil for doing math, I use a calculator for speed and accuracy.

Previous write up:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/846673-kirk-engines-valve-lash-adjustment-tool.html

MY problem came when I wanted to check to ensure I was using the Kirk tool properly. My worry being, what if I backed everything off, then when I tightened it down with the screwdriver / tool I really only brought the jam nut tight and left to big of a gap? So I wanted to check things, and that's where the Dial indicator came in to play. Then it was a slippery slope to no faith in what I was getting from the DI or Kirk tool. In practice I believe the tool is great, once I can take a gap reading and know it to be so. So I have my poop in a group and will start over again this evening.

Amen, brother. :)
I'll bet the Porsche 3.2 engine is the world's worst for adjustments using a feeler gauge.

Started last night with the backside/ kirk tool. #1 Intake was fine with go / no go, that's how I knew it would work at all. exhaust was tight, so used the tool to reset and checked with go/no go success! Of course there are 5 more to go, but I can see the backside works well because I can actually see the feeler gauge slipping between the cam and rocker.