Time to change the CLUTCH
 

Dear Friends,

I have this 1976 2,7 911 and i would like to replace the clutch
I pull the engine down for something else and took the trans apart to check the clutch
The clutch is in the end of his live, but the pressure disc looks ok, the disc looks ok even the wear out clutch looks ok
QUESTION 1:
Can i replace only the clutch (U$180,00) or i have to replace the whole kit, clutch, pressure disc and release bearing? (U$660,00)
Or even someting in between? Clutch + Release Bearing

QUESTION 2:
In what situation, or how do i know that the pressure disc is bad and in the need for replacement?

Thank you all for the help

Ricardo

While you are in there, it would be wise to do the kit.

My wrench tried to save me money by just doing the clutch disc. Wonderful, but shortly there after the TOB failed and I have very heavy pedal throw due to the old pressure plate.

Save yourself some grief and do it all at the same time. You might want to consider doing your rear main seal while you are in there as well as get your flywheel resurfaced and it is a good idea to have the new clutch assembly and flywheel balanced together as well. As far as the sachs pressure plates go I believe there may be issues with the newer model with rivets pulling loose over time but I may be wrong about this.

If you have no history of when the pressure plate was replaced, then I would replace the clutch, the pressure plate, TO bearing, and the pilot bearing.

Hello, I´m kind of new on this stuff so i have a few stupid questions:
What´s the TO bearing? I tought that was only the REALESE BEARING ( Porsche 911 E s T SC Targa Coupe Clutch Release Bearing New | eBay )
What´s the Pilot bearing?
What´s and where´s the rear main seal?
Is the balance mandatory for a street car?
And finally, Pelican sell a kit with the aluminium pressure plate and a kit with steel pressure plate
What are the mains difference, Do i need the more expansive aluminium type?

Thanks again

Ricardo

The pilot bearing is used to center the trans shaft before the clutch assembly, The rear main is behind the flywheel. You can try your luck and not resurface your flywheel and or not balance the clutch with the flywheel but it is pretty reasonable to have a machine shop do this and would have to have my car vibrate by not doing this and dropping the trans to do this again. Throw out and release are the same thing. The aluminum flywheel will save some weight and your crankshaft will spin a little faster on acceleration. Hope this helps.

Hello, Helped a lot! ;-)
One more thing, when i remove the flywheel, do i need to change the bolts that hold it? Or i can reuse the bolts?
Also to unbolt i could use a pneumatic impact wrench to remove it
But to install, what´s the torque on those bolts? And since i planing to use a torquimeter to torque the bolts downs, how do i secure the whole thing from spinning?
Also do i need to use some kind of loctite glue on the bolts?
Thanks again

If it were me I would replace the bolts and yes an impact gun would be great on removal. You could fab up a flywheel lock with a large flat head screw driver and vise grips resting on a bell housing bolt or you could buy a flywheel lock to secure the flywheel on install. The flat head would go into the starter ring gear. You would have to look up the torque as I don't recall off hand. You could use blue removable loctite on the threads if you wish for peace of mind but you don't have to in my opinion if the new bolts are torqued correctly.

I would do just the disc, release bearing and the pilot bearing. Rough up the flywheel and pressure plate with a sanding disc so the new clutch can bed in properly. I wouldnt mess with the rear main seal if it shows no signs of leaking. Id say you stand more chance of causing a leak there than preventing one in the future. Especially if you have no idea what youre doing. No need for an aluminum flywheel. Also you will probrobly need a puller for the pilot bearing. So much easier with the proper tool.

Ricardo,

The clutch kit is the best way to go. The Sachs kit number is KF20001 or KF 20001 or KF 2000-01 and the prices here in the USA are all over. The OEM part number is 91511691100. I see a high of about $600 to a low of $444 at FCP Euro for exactly the same kit. So shopping for these costly kits is a very good thing to do.

If the flywheel is looking good, then I would scuff it up with a scotchbrite pad on an air tool. to give the new disc something to bed into. If the rear main seal is not leaking, I would leave it be.

I would also replace the pilot bearing at the same time as well as inspect/replace the seal on the input shaft of the transmission.

Change transmission oil
Inspect repack the CV joints
replace control arm bushings near the trans mount.

I am liking the $444 price, but is that the one with a Sachs disc and aftermarket TO Bearing and Pressure plate? For that price, I wiould do it all.

That is the full OEM/Sachs kit. I just bought one from them and put it in my daughter's Boxster. Full sachs parts.