what.. torsion bars to buy

[IS300]

I'm getting new torsion bars and searched for some info but I really want to find out your opinions on these.

Sway a Way solid?

Sway a Way hollow?

Elephant racing quick change hollow?

Is there a performance difference..... quality?

Thanks, your help would be appreciated.

Anthony

[impactbumper]

Before someone comes in and gives you the stupid "search" spill, let me try to help you.

I like the ER quick change bars for the ease of replacement. There are other options not on your list depending on your diameter choice.

Are you doing a suspension overhaul?

I think replacing all bushings, turbo tie-rods, ball joints and new struts/shocks followed by alignment and corner balance makes these cars delight to drive. If you want to stiffen up the ride, bigger torsion bars is an avenue. Other thing is adjustable sway bars and links helps tremendously around the corners.

[IS300]

I'm at the torsion bar stage... 22 front 28 rear.......... but want to know what the different bars do or if one is better than other.....

[impactbumper]

Hollow bars are a bit more expensive, around $50 per. They have weight savings advantage. IIRC, 2-3 lbs per in the front and 3-4 lbs in the back, so about 10-12 lbs savings overall.

22Frt/28RR seems to be the general flavor around here. Larger the stiffer.

Elephant Racing is my suspension-to-go place, but that is my preference.

[javadog]

The word is spiel...

I'd suggest Elephant, or Glen Sanders bars. In those sizes, I would choose hollow bars.

JR

[impactbumper]

Originally Posted by javadog

The word is spiel...

I'd suggest Elephant, or Glen Sanders bars. In those sizes, I would choose hollow bars.

JR

This guy!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[javadog]

Hey, I answered the question, right?

JR

[impactbumper]

Originally Posted by javadog

Hey, I answered the question, right?

JR

Absolutely

[3literpwr]

I'm running 23/31 solid/hollow on my 87 with poly bushings, Hotbits adjustable dampers and good rubber. Overall I love the setup, but I do feel that the 23's are a bit much for mixed use. i'm thinking of dropping it back down to 21. Balance is good with 23/31 with a tendency to understeer a tad. 21/31 should help the car point a bit more. On my SC, I plan to run rally rates with a 19/28.

For me, the key is adjustable shocks.

[Driven97]

The Sway-A-Way bars are painted, where the Sanders (Elephant sells both brands) are plated for corrosion resistance. The plating is nicer. The hollow save you a small amount of weight. I've had no fit or functionality issues with either brand.

For all bars I coat them pretty liberally with thick grease before install as an extra layer of corrosion protection.

I've never seen a Sway-A-Way hollow up close, so can't comment on those.

[Quicksilver]

Originally Posted by Driven97

. . .
The Sway-A-Way bars are painted, where the Sanders (Elephant sells both brands) are plated for corrosion resistance. The plating is nicer.
. . .

Not really accurate. Sander Engineering does not plate their bars. Elephant starts with Sander bars and does additional work to them.
The main work being that they zinc plate them and put a plug in them to keep crap from going down the center.

As to what you should choose...
The Sander bars are as good as they come and the Elephant upgrades make for a real nice insurance against long term corrosion issues.

In my case I have Elephant bars on the front but the rears were out of stock and they weren't going to have any for a few weeks. I couldn't wait so I got Sander bars for the rear and found a good local plater to zinc plate them and then bake them to deal with the hydrogen embrittlement.

[BFT3.2]

In my limited but first hand experience, I would strongly suggest getting your shocks re-valved to the TBs spring rate if you go up in stiffness. The increased rebound dampening will keep the car settled and handle way better. Plus you get fresh oil, seals etc.

[Driven97]

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I tried to buy direct from Sanders and they pointed me to elephant, so I assumed they were the same product.

[Tremelune]

After having just spent $2k replacing my torsion bars for the second time, I really wish I had shelled out for the QuickChange bars and plates.

Actually kinda wish I'd gone coilover for that money, but that's another story...I should just work on my car more.

[Phaster]

I finally gussetted my rear shock towers and went to full coil-over / 935 spring plates in the rear of my 1987 Carrera. If you have a G50 car I have for sale :

A pair of Sway-Away solid 30 MM rear torsion bars
A pair of sway-a-away adjustable spring plates (a HUGE help in fine-tuning corner weights)

I would match the 30 rears to 22 mm front torsion bars for optimal balance.

I would have Clint at Rebel Racing custom valve your shocks to match the spring rates of the bars, properly corner weight the car to 50.0% cross weights and you won't believe it's the same car. It will be much easier to balance and manipulate (rotate) at the limit.

Torsion bar 911s are very softly sprung (esp compared to my stock E30M3 which has a very stiff race suspension, and even at these rates, the 911 is still softer). The 22/30 takes you to about 273/308 lbs at the wheel (here's my source 911CoilConv)

Here's my ad for the components, iif you're interested, just PM me. I sold the fronts a couple years back, had to go to 24mm front because of my GT Racing splitter's downforce to keep the front from bottoming out at speed.

I'm currently asking $450 for the spring plates and the 30 mm solid bars as a set.

FS: Adj Spring Plates & G50 30mm Solid Sway Away Torsion Bars

[BFT3.2]

I went also went 22/30 on my 200 lb lighter then stock G50 and revalved the shocks to match + corner balance. Great for the track and I feel not at all to stiff for the street. Mine were solid Sway-Aways, woulda loved to get hollow ERs for rear but the used solids were to much of a bargain.