Leaky Engine & Mysterious Pipe
 

Hi Fellow Pelicans,

I have finally got my car up on the ramp to check which suspension bushings I need for a refresh. Whilst under the car I was distracted by multiple leaking points from the engine which I wasn't completely aware of. :confused: Most seem to be from the 'usual areas' but I did spot one pipe which had a rubber blanking cap on the end of it and I have no idea what it is. Can any of you guys help please?
A close up.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448963315.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448963658.jpg
The location.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448963401.jpg

Also, this stud and nut seem to be the worst area for the leaks. Any ideas about this stud? Is it just a case fixing?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1448963823.jpg

Looks like my 'Winter To Do List' has just increased slightly.........Just don't tell the Missus!:D
Cheers,
Jason.

The cap is a drip container for the air box. The 77 has a curly hose coming off the oil tank to the right side of the airbox. The fumes off the tank get burned in the combustion chamber. Any oil fumes condense and stick to the flat area in the airbox drip forward winding up in the rubber container.
The leaking nut is the stud for the intermediate shaft. On a 77 magnesium case the stud will pull out if torqued. You might put a rubber O ring on it but anything you do could pull the stud and the case needs to split to repair
Bruce

Flat6pac,

Thanks very much for the info. I will not touch the stud but I will try a new washer and O-ring under the nut.

Regarding the rubber hose and cap, is it required to drain this occasionaliy?

It just keeps the oil drip low on the engine.
If you want to delete the drip use an SC black boot between airflow sensor and throttle body
93011035805
Where the curly hose comes off, get an SC hose 00004320516 and restrictor 93010728900 goes inside hose..
Connector from hose to boot top front93011026704
That will permit you to burn all fumes into throttle.
Removing the oil cap will affect and stumble motor when running showing the injection is tight sealed.
Bruce

Hi Bruce,

Many thanks for the part numbers. I will check out the top part of the hose on my car when it is down from the lift. If it shows some signs of a leak it will be swapped out for the SC type.

Cheers,
Jason

Jason; a common problem that allows oil to collect in the airbox drain tube is running the engine oil level too high, even over-filled. Please don't take this wrong, but when you check your oil level, be sure that your car is up to full operating temp, sitting on level ground, and idling. Use the dipstick under the oil filler cap, and measure your oil level. The level should not be higher than about halfway between your "min" and "max" marks on the stick. When you run the oil level near to, or at, the "max" line, the engine will have a tendency to pump more vapors into the airbox.

There are also two items that can leak in the same area, and only appear to be leaking from the tube. They are the oil pressure switch and thermostat o-ring, both are beneath the airbox and replacing them is a difficult job that usually requires a partial engine drop.

Caution regarding the leaking nut. If you take it loose, as Bruce mentioned, the stud threads can pull which requires heavy repair work to fix. It does appear that the incorrect washer was used under your nut, if you dare to remove the nut have available an 8mm aluminum sealing washer like those used on valve cover nuts. That might fix the problem, but chances are good that it won't. If you find that the stud is tight in the engine case (that's good!), then only lightly snug the nut, be very careful to not over-tighten it!

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the info and advice. It seems that the washer under the nut has also been glued/sealed in place. Not sure if this is a bad sign or not but I will definitely try to address the situation over the winter period.

As ever I am finding a lot of 'whilst I'm under there' jobs which will be keeping me busy.