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The Mighty Pieholio
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2jmotorsports View Post
I am having trouble calculating my CR because I "eyeballed" TDC when I measured deck height. I may go back and re-measure it while setting TDC with a dial indicator. Maybe. Im getting kind of tired of all the precise measuring.
Another side bar:

Engine Builders Supply fly cut my heads to clean up for the new seal. They removed 0.006". I just looked up the formula for cylinder volume and did a little math and found 0.006" is worth 0.2 points of compression.

Years ago, I posted my math on this forum and it was confirmed.

So, 9.3:1 went to 9.5:1. I used standard (copper?) spacers at base of cylinders. Reason I knew they were standard spacers is Bruce Anderson's book talked about using fatter spacers if you went overboard.
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1981 911SC Targa
Old 11-10-2017, 11:50 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #101 (permalink)
Under the radar
 
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FWIW. My recently assembled SC motor's heads measured 89cc. IIRC the spec is 90. The JE 9.5 - 1 pistons ended up giving me a 9.8 - 1 CR.

I wonder if the Carrera heads have a slightly larger combustion chamber?
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:43 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #102 (permalink)
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Blasted and painted my cooling tins with VHT satin black.



Installed.



Dropped in head gasket rings.



Dropped on the heads with head stud nuts snugged then backed off a bit to allow the heads to move around and align with the cam tower dowel pin holes.



Cleaned and prepped cam tower and head bonding surfaces one last time and got all hardware and tools together.



Ready, set, GO! Applied the ooey gluey Threebond 1184 and got cracking.



Torque torque torque per the crazy order in the book. Cam was in place to make sure it moved freely.



Final torqued head studs and cam still moves freely. One side done.

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Jose - 1983 911SC Coupe
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Old 11-20-2017, 07:07 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #103 (permalink)
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Next day, repeated the same process for the other side.





Done.



The light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter and brighter.





Tired of those chains dangling in testicular fashion, so chain boxes are next...
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Jose - 1983 911SC Coupe
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Old 11-20-2017, 07:18 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #104 (permalink)
The Dude abides...
 
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That looks AWESOME, Jose! Keep it up!
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Old 11-21-2017, 02:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #105 (permalink)
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Chain housings next. I didnt send these out to get cleaned up. I did it myself a while back but went over the sealing surfaces one more time with scotchbrite to get all traces of crud off.



I had to remove the old epoxy from the backsides using aircraft stripper, then wiped with solvent and re-applied new epoxy.



While the glue dried I went to install the threaded spray bar plugs on the rear of the cam housings. The chains housings partially block them so I had to take care of them now. Installed with green Loctite.





Housings cleaned and ready to install.

Note: The left (1-3) chain ramp has to be removed to get the chain installed correctly. I found this out after the fact when trying to get the chain through and ended up popping it off, torquing all fasteners, then putting the chain ramp back on.



Goo-ed up the right housing and gasket with 574.



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Last edited by 2jmotorsports; 11-27-2017 at 07:02 AM..
Old 11-26-2017, 07:38 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #106 (permalink)
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Right housing on with all fasteners torqued.



Then the left housing (complete with the ramp removal, installation, torque, then ramp re-installation). No more dangly chains.



Rockers and idler arms with gears are out for rebuild. Cams are getting reground for heavier breathing.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:42 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #107 (permalink)
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Fantastic!
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2006 997s
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Old 11-27-2017, 07:35 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #108 (permalink)
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Tidy work there
Old 11-27-2017, 08:32 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #109 (permalink)
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That's looking nice...
Old 01-17-2018, 05:33 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #110 (permalink)
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Had a bunch of stuff reconditioned over the winter. As discussed in this thread, I discovered a few flaws in my fan and housing so had them weld repaired and refinished in Cerakote.

Before:



After:



Had my cams reground to 964 profile.



Had my rocker arms and idler gears rebuilt. Also got some of those snazzy rocker shaft locks from Turbokraft because I am not down with torquing the snot out of the shaft bolts and hoping for the best. These will mechanically lock the shafts in place and prevent them from walking.



Lastly, had my hardware replated in yellow zinc. Sorry for the pic quality, I lost the original resolution photo.



All the yellow bits are bagged and tagged so I know where they all go.
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Jose - 1983 911SC Coupe
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:17 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #111 (permalink)
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While all those bits were getting reconditioned, I took care of some unsexy tasks.

First I deleted my tint...



...with my rollbar IN PLACE.



Finished, trashed, and windows cleaned of residue.



There are no beautiful "after" shots of this because the disassembled car still looks terrible in my dark garage.
Also, everyone can now see my mangled headliner.

I then intended on cleaning my engine compartment and was bothered by these damn AC hoses dangling about, connected to nothing, leaving greasy streaks on me every time they brushed my arm.



The only solution was obviously to perform a full aircondectomy.



Followed the hoses to all the subcomponents scattered about the front of the car.



Most of these parts were basically trash anyway.

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Old 03-13-2018, 07:54 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #112 (permalink)
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Much better. So much room for activities!



I have no idea why, but I made sure I pulled out every hose undamaged, labeled every clamp with its location, and bagged all the respective hardware.



I put everything into a cardboard box that now probably weighs 35-40 lbs.

I made a closeout panel for the hole in the frunk floor right behind the bumper, and plugged all the hose clamp screw holes with the old hose clamp screws and new stainless steel washers that have an integrated rubber gasket. Hopefully this seals out the elements from the cabin floor.

Now for the original task at hand. Cleaning the engine compartment.

So up until this day I thought my engine compartment and underbody were black, because, well, they were black!



After some time with my weapon of choice, the steam cleaner...





...things started to change color.



Oh look, that trailing arm is aluminum!



I got about halfway done and this was the result.



The underbelly and inside the wheel wells are a tan color and the engine compartment is a dull gray color. Looks factory. I nearly lost my mind that the car was this damn dirty.

Back to clean engine assembly activities...
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Last edited by 2jmotorsports; 03-13-2018 at 08:31 PM..
Old 03-13-2018, 08:21 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #113 (permalink)
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Great work, Jose!
Old 03-13-2018, 08:28 PM
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cleaning is allways a much rewarding and satisfying task.
gonna look nice with the freg flatsix inside that bay!
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:58 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #115 (permalink)
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subscribed.... FANTASTIC photos and info.

I truly appreciate those who take the time to take a photo and post WHILE they are working on their cars... I know sometimes you would rather just 'get it done' and not deal with the added time needed to stop, take photos, post online, and then do the next task.
I know I'm guilty of not contributing enough.

Keep up the great work!
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #116 (permalink)
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Thanks for the kind words.

Trakrat, I am guilty of letting several months at a time go by and then posting one big update here, but my intent is very much to keep it up to date and link all the side threads where I ask the experts for help on specific subtopics.
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Old 03-14-2018, 06:56 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #117 (permalink)
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My recent cleaning effort reinforced my hatred for old CV grease, so I sent these things out to my local automotive rebuilders instead of doing them myself.



Then I installed the cams and the little thrust plates that hold them in place.



Followed by the keys, shims, cogs, and pins that go under the cam gears.





My cam parallelism was within spec so I installed rockers next. Installed RSR seals on new rocker shafts and kitted with the respective Turbokraft locks so I wouldn't screw up the order.



Totally forgot about these. Clearly whoever was last in here torqued the crap out of them to attempt to keep the rocker shafts from walking out. Trashed them and ordered new ones.



Got them all installed hand tight with an Allen wrench but I couldnt get a torque wrench in there to torque them to spec.



Found some itty bitty hex bits that work.



All done.



Installed mechanical tensioners and got ready for cam timing.

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Old 03-18-2018, 07:11 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #118 (permalink)
 
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So cam timing was kind of a fiddly process. Even after reading the official procedures, lots of threads, and watching youtube videos, it took many tries to get it where it needed to be accurately. For me this is what worked:

1. Installed all the rockers because according to some threads doing just the #1 and #4 rockers will cause the cam to rotate a bit when you pull the cam gear pin, throwing off your measurement and driving you nuts. All the rockers worked for me.

2. Followed the Bentley's procedure. It was short, clear, and worked. The one in Wayne's book was a bit tough to follow, at least for me.

3. I had my mechanical tensioners set up rock hard and that was making it tough to pull the pin to reset the cams. When the pin did come off, the cams rotated a bit and threw my reading off. Someone recommended I back off the tension a bit and that worked like a charm.



After following the recommendation here, I zip tied the right side chain and idler gear to keep the idler from dropping and throwing off my timing.

I then prepped the Carrera tensioners that came with the motor for reinstallation. These hydraulic tensioners are surrounded by a lot of mystery and pseudoscience regarding how prone they are to failure compared to spring tensioners. After pouring through the extensive discussion in this thread, I did the following:

1. The empty, still-oily tensioners had been sitting sealed in a small tupperware bin for a couple of years.
2. Cleaned them externally and checked for loose external check valve; no issues.
3. Tried to compress by hand. I could only compress about .200" by hand with tremendous effort. To collapse all the way down requires a C-clamp.
4. Clamped each one in a vise in the upright position and used an oil can to slowly fill the chambers. After the air inside the supply chamber reached cracking pressure the external check valve momentarily opened and sprayed a bit of oil and air. This happened about 3-4 times per tensioner then only oil flowed out.
5. Compressed piston all the way and released. Heard sucking sound and had to refill supply chamber.
6. Refilled supply chamber until all air was bled and only oil would flow out the external check valve.
7. Tensioners were firm and impossible to compress by hand at this point.
8. Compressed piston down to insert pin and noted it was very slow and difficult even with the C-clamp. The whole time oil slowly oozed out of the orifice.
9. Inserted pin and re-bled just in case.
10. Installed in the engine and pulled pin to hear a loud "TWACK" as the piston came up.
11. Did the "screwdriver prying on the idler arm" test per the Bentley and they were very difficult to move at all.

Based on the evaluation criteria in the prior link, I think mine are good to go.







I cant believe its time to button up the longblock.

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Old 03-18-2018, 07:43 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #119 (permalink)
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nice!
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Old 03-19-2018, 12:03 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #120 (permalink)
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