Does't your front spoiler hit when you jack up the back so much?

Not if you remove it before you jack up the car;)

Remove the rear valence and bumper gives you more room. Still have to jack the car up to uncomfortable height to get the engine out. Once it is out, I lower the car to a more respectable height.

I've done it with the bumper on and the bumper off. It's a lot of work to take the bumper off for the two inches of clearance it will buy you. Time is better spent jacking it up two inches higher.

Nope, never touched the ground. When I lower I come in from behind the front tire and lift on the front cross member (gasp!) and lower it to the floor then pull the jack out.

I used Esco jacks and jack tool
 

I removed the rear valance and bumper. I have 4 Esco jack stand that I used. Don't know the exact height but will dig out a jack stand and measure. My car (89 3.2) has the 4 flat jack points.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449623343.jpg

Jack position

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449623376.jpg


Tool that sits on jack and holds engine. This is for a 3.2 but I believe there is one for the other 911s.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449623521.jpg

Wow. You have some nice tools for lifting. Might have been cheaper to buy a lift. :D

Love the cart too but you will get slot more future use with a low profile motorcycle jack.

Just did this with a pair of ramps under the front wheels and a pair of 12 ton jack stands in the rear. Bumper off. Stands still had more height to go but this was the minimum. Car was/is very stable in this position too.

I have a cheap motorcycle jack with a wooden block holding up the engine/tranny under the engine sump plate.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449384888.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449384906.jpg

A lot of things will work. For me, 2 jacks, 2 jack stands, 1 furniture moving dolly. 2 hours.

When the front was up I needed a few more inches, otherwise there was too much rubbing so I put the front on the floor and the rear pivoted up higher for easier extraction. Once I did that it, it went quickly and was over before I knew it.

How thick did your concrete have to be for the Max Jax 2? How do the mounting plates work? I am thinking this is the route I will have to go.

~Andy

Don't forget you can detach the engine and transmission after only raising the car a little bit. Then raise the car off of the engine and slide it out. For installation, slide the engine underneath and then lower the car on top of it.

Much easier than balancing the engine as you raise it 2 feet off the ground.

I used one of these along with the low profile Jack that Wayne sells through this site. Can not recommend both more. Made removal of the drivetrain a breeze. No wobbling about or anything.

Also, I've used one of those hydraulic tables before too. The jack with sump adapter was way better.

This is how I've always done it. Jack and support the car only high enough to safely work under and get the engine to the floor using an ATV/motorcycle jack, and then jack the car high enough (sorry I don't recall the measurement) to slide that baby out. I used a floor jack on each side of the car. Once out, the car goes back down. On my 930, I used to remove the rear bumper. I have not yet removed the engine from my 993.

Not my picture but this is a great shot from another Pelican ;) that shows how a very inexpensive jack and a sheet of plywood do an amazing job. You will get much more use of of this jack than the table lift and its 1/4 of the expense. I love this setup and added casters to the bottom of my plywood so I can roll it around once down. When going back in just use a second jack under the front of the transmission to give it some angle. I do this without needing an additional person.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449694922.jpg

To clarify, I don't have a MaxJax yet. Almost did, but moved and now have a garage that would need a new floor poured to install one.

If I remember correctly, it's 4" of 3000psi. Most people find that a bit sketchy, and frankly most of us don't know *for sure* what we have for a slab, so there are many threads where people jackhammer out a section and repour so they can feel safe. The supplied hardware has bolts that go into the concrete, but many people weld up plates that get embedded into the concrete when they pour a floor/section

This ^ - 4" minimal and at least 3000psi concrete...

I used the recommended anchors an also used concrete epoxy as additional safety measure.... I move them around depending on the task. I have a setup in the single bay and then two widths setups in the double bay depending on the car I am lifting (helping out friends).

Garage Journal has several good threads on it... here is one: Maxjax Installs: Post Here - The Garage Journal Board

And since we all love photos... a few from me...

In the single bay:

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc05165_medium.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/038_800x600.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc05173_medium.jpg

The rest are in the double bay.

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc04820sm.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/inspect0.jpg


http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s...R/Paint-49.jpg

http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/964_on_lift.jpg


http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc05136sm.jpg


http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc00786sm.jpg


http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/dsc_0020_800x600.jpg

Could someone measure the dimensions of those engines? I am trying to figure out whether I can fit it into my cayenne with the seats down or, if I need to rent a pick up truck.

After all I have decided to let my indy take it all out :D

Thanks,
Paul

This was with the engine balanced on a floor jack.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449710544.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1449710592.jpg