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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Long Beach, CA
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So...Thanks you all! Because of you, I developed the courage to undertake something that seems so scary...but it was actually very easy.

Everything is working beautifully...Removed the main frame, had it welded, installed and glued top back on. That easy...

Total expenses came to $184ish.

I found the bolt to the transmission completely loose, ironically this was the same side the main frame broke. Also, several other "lose" bolt on the various hinges. My recommendation it to check all the hardware as a routine maintenance inspections. Maybe every oil change...

Thanks again

Last edited by DeltaBravo; 02-07-2016 at 09:55 PM..
Old 02-07-2016, 09:49 PM
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here are some pics:

After the weld:




Installed main hoop/frame:


Glued old top back on:


Then...gave her a much needed bath:
Old 02-07-2016, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaBravo View Post
I found the bolt to the transmission completely loose, ironically this was the same side the main frame broke. Also, several other "lose" bolt on the various hinges. My recommendation it to check all the hardware as a routine maintenance inspections.
My rear spare (bow) broke. Typically happens when side gear box bolts get loose. Took the old top off. Welded the bow. Put on new top. Synced the box timing. Took about a week for whole project. Fortunately I have a printed copy and DVD on setting up the timing. Been 10 years now and never had problem since.
Helps to check the gear box bolts every once in a while.
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1987 911 cab, modified
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:36 AM
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Any tips on the actual top removal and re-gluing. I have been putting this off for a while but may tackle it this winter
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:59 AM
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Dave, you only got 6 more weeks of winter left, lol.

I did not document doing my cab, but it was tedious.. cut and glue and "I wish I started at the other end" thoughts along the way. You start at the rear where the tie down bar screws into the body. Lots of trial and error, replaced the liner and the seals as well. The right glue was the key, I got a few bottles from a local car seat/top shop. I recall most local top shops charge between 800 to 1500. Got the top from cabrio world.

There are a few dozen here on PP that have done it. Search them and buy them a steak.
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1987 911 cab, modified
https://griffiths.com/
Old 02-08-2016, 11:42 AM
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kuehl where did you get that DVD on setting up the timing?
I would really like to check mine.

thanks!
Old 02-08-2016, 06:14 PM
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Thanks all for the guidance and help. I removed the main bow, had it welded for $80 and then installed. The only other part I needed was the vertical metal piece that holds the weather strip. It was bent and beyond repair, but I found one for $100 through DC Automotive (great company). Other than that, I needed some glue...two small bottle from Home Depot at around $7 each.

Total expenses under $200...

I though the process of installing the canvas was going to be the most difficult task. But because I was using the original, not installing a new one, it really just fell into place. I am sure it is more difficult when installing a new top/material.

Thanks again.




[img]http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads24/IMG_16981455051565.j
pg[/img]



Old 02-09-2016, 01:02 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #47 (permalink)
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Greetings all,

Longtime no talk! Like since Feb of '16 (at least on this thread).

Anyway, thanks to Nick the fellow Pelican, I have made good on my threat, earlier in this thread, to convert my top to full manual operation.

Phase 1: was to disconnect the transmissions from the top frame. The top latches remained electrically actuated via the dash swtich, but I would lower / raise the top manually.

Phase 2: I have sourced the manual latches and corresponding windshield frame catches from a later car (964). This will allow for full manual operation of the convertible top.

Phase 3: will either be sourcing a used padded header piece from a car with factory manual top (pretty fat chance there) or pick up a spare padded header piece from a power top car (more easily found) and drill the proper holes, install the manual latch rosettes / trim pieces (different spacing than the emergency access rosettes / trim pieces for the automatic latches) and have the unit recovered in the proper black vinyl.

Phase 4? In addition to the power latching motors in the top, I would like to further remove both electric motors, both transmissions and the cables that connect them, store them in a box and lose all of that weight / complexity in favor of the blissfully simple manual latch system. The whole system is currently fully operational, adjusted & working perfectly, I am not interested in making any adjustments to the system upon re-installation though, so I would only remove items that would be bolt off / on.

So, my question is, can the motors, transmissions and the operating cables that connect them be removed as one unit? Or, do they need to be disconnected from one another for removal?

When all is said and done, I'll put together a post detailing the process and listing part numbers, etc., for the conversion.

Thanks!
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Old 08-03-2017, 01:27 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #48 (permalink)
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