Basic questions on Pedal Cluster
 

My pedals are fine, but I'm just wondering what this project is about.

First, I've not really heard of this repair in context of other enthusiast cars.
Is this something particular to vintage Porsche/VW ?

What are symptoms of a pedal cluster that requires a rebuild?

I've seen references that this is a very challenging project.
So, I'm guessing it's more than just a few drops of TriFlow on the hinges.
What does that entail exactly? Bushings for the pivot fulcrums?
Why is it so difficult?

You'll know when it is time. Is there any sideways movement in your pedals? Can you depress your clutch pedal with your hand? Are there any squeaks when you depress the clutch or brake pedal?

I did mine a few years ago, and it was a pretty rewarding project.

I just used the standard bushings and it is fine. Some folks upgrade to bronze.

Before you do anything, vacuum the heck out of the pedal cluster area to remove all debris, and then put a couple of drops of lube on the pedal shaft. See if it is any better.

A visual inspection is all you need. Look for rust and any unusual play on anything that moves or pivots. Two things damage a pedal cluster. Water, from driving in rain, wet shoes, windshield leaks, etc. and dirt, from a lack of maintenance on the part of the owner.

It's not hard to rebuild one, if you have decent mechanical skills and tools. People complain about it because they have not much idea how to do anything, lack a few basic tools and the experience to use them and don't take the time to understand what they are doing.

The pedal clusters varied quite a bit over the years, more than most people realize. There are 3 or 4 major variations and innumerable small ones. Written directions with repair kits and advice given here is often wrong, as they only pertain to a particular version of the cluster, which may not be the one you are dealing with.

Basically, you remove it, clean it, paint or plate any parts with damaged finishes and reassemble with new bushings. Porsche used plastic bushings, the aftermarket kits usually supply bronze bushings and opinions vary on which to use. The accepted wisdom is to use the bronze ones, but that may not be the smartest solution.

There are also bushings in the throttle linkage further aft that are often ignored, plus a few other related things in the tunnel that are also ignored.

JR

To me, the hardest part of doing a pedal rebuild is cleaning and painting the base and pedals - only because it put my car out of commission for a week. In my case, I had the pedals and base powder coated which made it look brand new.

Replacing the bushings is easy and you should buy new springs as the old springs (as tough as they may seem) are probably worn.

Lastly, hooking up the accelerator and clutch cable is a bit difficult due to the tight space but doable.

My first hint I needed a rebuild was when the throttle stuck in the WOT position when running up through the gears on an interstate entrance ramp. It seems the bushings on the gas pedal pivot had decided to fail at that particular moment. A most interesting experience,,

As Vern and Javadog state, clean it up, replace all the bushings and helper springs, and replace all the bushings on the throttle linkage in the engine compartment and in the tunnel. It is well worth the time and effort to do so.

Not a big deal. Very DIY.

Wear on the clutch pedal pin/lever where the clevis attaches.

One of the few ones that I've been stranded. Easy to fix but takes a while for the part to arrive.

I have a new cluster that I need to install at some point. I'm assuming you need to adjust the clutch cable after the new cluster goes in?

Yes.

Cool thought as much. Thanks!

You'll want to disconnect the clutch cable at the transmission end before removing the pedal cluster, then reconnect it after installation. When you set the new clearance, set the cable preload first and then also measure the cable travel.

Cool thanks JR appreciate it.

How do you know your pedals are fine?