Reading the drivel you post tells far more than you will ever know, 11000 posts?
Read some of your own collection:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?searchid=14368620
The stuff you claim is available to anyone with Google and the ability to cut and paste, I would ask you to post your DD214, but you would just go find a JPEG and post someone else's. I am not making up anything, your sigline and posts clarify everything need to know about you. So how is your 2150lb Porsche doing? Full tank as well, nicely done, was there a motor installed?
Back to the shop.

Yeah, the vid got me going 'off topic' lol. That Huey sound you know.

Interesting thread non the less.

Ok whatever
...I have a DD 214 here.
I copied of exactly what it said
i know where cantho was/ is
What do you have ?
If you want to run your mouth about crap you have no clue about....
You have falsely accused me on your own bravado of know-nothingness .
You must be pretty scared of something..
What are you a draft dodger?
You and you alone brought up military service . i never ever mentioned to you.
You do this because I blew you out o the water with your BS on the A&P crap.
Now you grasp and gasp

I know where Can Tho is, now:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cần_Thơ
Please stop posing and go play with your r/c helicopters and 2150lb PCar.

Weird stuff goes on when Burner makes a rare venture out of PARF!

I wonder if the mods will be bothered further to delete additional posts to this thread after poster's remorse descends upon CCB again later this evening?

"get a room" ?? really?

I'm a mod, here, but not this sub-forum. Would everyone please take a deep breath, and get back OT?

OP, the bottom line is leakdown tests are typically done warm, for best results. Having said that, I've done them cold, because on an engine out of the car, it can give you meaningful, but perhaps not best results.

Pressurize those leaky cylinders again, and listen carefully.... to the breather, intake, exhaust......

Its pretty bad . Pretty sad .
Disappointing that you are allowed to ATTACK my Military Record with no recourse .
That because of some form of jealousy you attack my military service .
You have absolutely ZERO for proof in your accusations.
Zero!
Dont bet too much money on your BS

I think you are just pissed because I explained what A&P is and is not .
simple
As far as my car you can ck with Nize a Moderator on here . ( he runs a 944 Seattle area)
Wolverine, (Mt vernon ) and others.
You keep grasping for accusations like a child..

Obviously my correct naritive of the A&P mechanic has distorted your reality .

you are correct sir.


when I rebuilt my 3.0L spec motor a few years back in my garage I did an initial leakdown as soon as it was reassembled on the stand cold noting those numbers. all 6-8% leakdown. sent the motor out for dyno tune & break in at JWE retesting cold upon return from them prior to install. as expected things improved with more cold testing to 4-6% leakdown numbers that again were charted. at the close of each subsequent race season I would drop the oil, adjust the valves and test again cold charting those numbers. I was able to check the data from year to year to see exactly how the motor was wearing in a repeatable condition. this served my needs best starting with a fresh power plant. as I stated, a warm to hot leakdown test is a great way to get a snapshot in time exactly where your motor sits. the OP would likely be best served with this approach as discussed. the testing I was doing was not about finding a specific, current issue, but creating a "book" on my motor. just imagine how thrilled id might have been with warm to hot to somewhere in between number!!!!;)



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453678673.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453678703.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453678734.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1453678834.jpg



not a mechanic by trade, but did stay at a holiday inn express recently...

t

I think it always good to post what was used for Cam timing and say if you are happy with it or not.
Is a pretty pretty engine and car !

I do not recall exactly and the "book" on the motor went with the car when sold a couple months ago. I tend to remember it was originally 1.05* with very slight deviation from side to side when disassembled. with the class rules I had to use CIS pistons and cams, although I did include the euro mahles upon reassembly and the CT was set to both sides at around 1.25* by recommendations of local engine builders to make use of the recurve of the distributor while at JWE for the dyno work. the motor made great power, wore well according to my yearly leakdown/compression numbers, oil filter dissection, & yearly oil analysis. I ran 46mm pmo's and it put out slightly over 250hp when dyno'd at break in. the new owner has moved to and EFI system that I look forward to seeing when I go to watch my old friends and car race in the spring.

EDIT::: my spec car weighted #2400 wet, and when I say wet I mean with my #200 plus pound fat ass in the driver's seat... so #2150 is not an unrealistic number for an SC or an early car as was called into question above until a record esponge was granted. let the actual record reflect....


i would love to check out your copters! im likely going to take early retirement and travel some in an RV. when i launch i will ping you to see if you're on my route!!

t

Cmon up! (upstate NY )
I have two in the shop and one almost ready to go.
Some people have drug , and DWI problems.
I have a helicopter problem...LOL
My habit might be cheaper.....?
Right now working on a engine install and a tail boom .
Kind of a major refit so to speak .

yir copters are now noted in my travel "book" as a must see! I will reference this thread a day or two out from my arrival....

August is a good time come here as we have small flying vampires that like to make your life miserable if one is not used to them .
All my stuff is recips , sorry the turbine noise is too much extra for my beer money.
Several American legions have Hueys outside just rotting..I am always tempted..to see if they would miss just one. LOL

Troll - Someone with nothing worthwhile to add to a certain conversation, but rather continually threadjacks or changes the subject
Urban Dictionary: troll

This isn't OT! How would you both like it if someone continually trashed your thread? Really, would you two TROLLS recognize what you are, get a room, move it to OT, PMs, or take it to the boxster sub-forum so I can delete your crap. :rolleyes:

Me personally, I'd rather read what the trolls have to say than what some A-hole who thinks he's the worlds greatest mechanic just because he works on airplanes, but that is just my opinion.

I usually do leak down testing cold, simply because I work slow and don't like working on hot engines. I can see how hot would be more real world but I also think that even if done cold all 6 cyls should be very close to each other (within 10%) value wise.

If you have 3 of the cyls way off compared to the other 3, regardless of cold or hot I'd say you have and issue that needs looking at.

Have you tried spraying some oil into one of the problem cyls, then crank it a few times and repeat the leak down? If values goes down (lower % leak) then you may have a problem with the rings, possibly a cracked ring.

Words from a wise man, heed his advice.

Head on over to PARF, no one here will miss you....

Keep it on topic
 

From this point forward, replies will directly relate/contribute to the OP's topic. Attacks will not be tolerated.

Well, I repeated the leak down test on one of the bad cylinders with the engine warm. No difference. About 25% leakage just like last time. I tried listening for the air leak sound again, and it definitely seems like it is from the top of the engine, but can't really pin point it. Nothing from tailpipe, doesn't get louder if I put my ear to the oil breather, nor the air intake filter. I guess I will be taking it back to the shop.

How does it run? Smoking?

Only on startup.

Update :
Well, after reaching close to the break in mileage recommended by the shop (so there is no excuse from them), I took it back to the shop. While I will not name the shop since they still have my car, I will make it known that this is a very reputable shop in Houston area (or at least was in the past). I had done my research and felt they were the best. They confirmed my leak down readings, and said there was leakage past the rings. Anyways, I got nervous when they told me that if the rings are broken, then it would not be covered by the warranty. After arguing that no rings should be broken in 5k miles, they claimed maybe I had set the boost too high, so it would be my fault. I have not touched the boost since I got it (I don't even know how to set boost). After opening the engine, they found the rings were fine, but there is severe non-roundness to the cylinders. Now they claim that I was probably running too lean due to bad fuel injectors or fuel distributor. This caused the cylinders to overheat, so it was my fault again. My argument is if there was a problem with the fuel delivery, the car should have hesitated or ran rough. That was not the case. Also, this engine is one of the coolest running air cooled engines I've seen. It has never even come close to overheating in the toughest conditions for the 4+ years I've owned it. These were also the people that told me I didn't need to change oil at 500 miles, and I should drive it hard from day one, counter to everything I've read.

So I'm at a loss right now. I feel like just getting the car back and trying to do it myself, or take it someplace else. At the same time, I have already paid these guys so much, I would end up paying more someplace else.

The sad part is, these people were supposed to be the best. Glowing reviews on this forum. I also feel sorry that the owner had a tragedy recently. None the less, I feel like I'm unnecessarily paying more money. Current agreement is I would pay the parts, and they would take care of most of the labor. The problem is the parts cost for relining and redoing the cylinders is not cheap. Do others think this is fair? I won't disparage them further unless they don't make things whole.

They did rebuild the engine........
They were in charge of the AFR B4 the release to you.
I know nothing except what you describe, which is to blame you rather than they shouldering the responsibility .
It is common practice to check all known parameters after a rebuild.

Are these stock OEM cylinders? and have they been bored or lined? Gives more details about what cyls and pistons are in that motor.

Fuch, this really sucks.

I hate to read this kinda stuff.

+1, They should or must test AFR before releasing it to you, WTF???

All our prayers to you Brother!

I for one would not ever install an engine and presume all is well with what could kill it !
The AFR, Oil P, leaks of any sort should and would be checked.
One does not bolt it to the into the car and hand the keys over without the preliminary .

The first time the cylinders were supposed honed, and a couple replaced with relined ones as they couldn't hone the originals properly. So yes, all was measured and fixed supposedly.

Maybe the re-lined cyls are not well done? It's possible the issue is simply the quality of the cyl and the re-line. It could be the AFRs are just fine, did anyone actually check and verify the AFRs or did they just make an assumption that the AFR is lean?

I strongly suspect the quality of those cyls, in general it's not a good idea to reline cyls, stock OEM cyls are best. What/how was the reline done?

If you have some honed and some re-lined, which ones are bad? All of them or just the re-lined ones?