Removing rear brake caliper... What tool works best on bottom 19mm bolt?
 

Replacing calipers with new PMB units and am struggling with the bottom bolts on the rear calipers. My 1/2" drive 19mm socket won't fit and a 3/8" drive isn't robust enough. I don't think a 19mm wrench will give me the leverage I need. What are you using?

Thank you

When I have a wrench/socket that gets into the space but needs more leverage I find a piece of pipe 12-18" long that will fit over the handle and use it as leverage. I replaced my calipers a few years back but can't remember what was involved.

I use a 3/8 socket with a small conduit pipe extension about 8"long. Never had a problem.

19mm box end wrench. One that's not clunky.

19 mm Craftsman cross force wrench. Allows you to get weight on the wrench easier.

I just did this a few weeks ago, and it worked great.

I used a 19mm box wrench as well, but had to soak the bolt overnight with PB Blaster and still had to whack the wrench with a 3lb hammer.

Guess I'll have to jack the car up a little higher so I can use the pipe extension or other tricks. I'll ray the pipe extension first.

Thank you for the quick replies

+1 box wrench and cheater box wrench for leverage

When you torque it don't go crazy

I used a 19mm 3/8 socket with a 12" breaker bar and pipe for leverage, once I broke it loose maybe 2 turns to expose threads, I sprayed Liquid Wrench (0r equiv) on the threads and while it sat broke loose the other side and did the same. Then went in with a shorti 19MM and finished off. 3 beer job... lol

I got the lower caliper bolt off using 3/8" ratchet with 19mm socket.
Had to use a pipe on the ratchet to break it loose.
Then I just used a ratcheting wrench to spin it off (a few degrees at a time)

This is what I use. We Brits call it a combined ring spanner/open-ended spanner (is this what you guys call a box wrench?). I use the ring-spanner end; it's offset so when I get it on it sticks out away from the caliper and then holding it in the direction to undo the bolt so that there is no slack I give it a good whack with the hammer (like JRSIII).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1454498976.jpg

this second photo shows offset
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1454499001.jpg

Yep.

JSV798 has nailed it. A "ring spanner" and a five pound hand sledge are my go-to tools for this operation.

Been doing it for years. I just don't have time for all that soaking and stuff, LOL.

Put the top bolt back in and get it just short of tight. Then, once you crack the bottom bolt loose (using the afore mentioned wrench), it won't have weight on it, and you can slowly get the bolt worked out with your fingers. It's slow, but faster than using a wrench 1/6 turn at a time. Or, remove top bolt, crack bottom bolt, and then sue second hand to support the weight of the caliper so the bottom bolt can be backed out with fingers.

Once I get it loose it won't be a problem using the 3/8" drive and socket for removal. Getting in there for the leverage has been the issue. Just bought an extended length 19mm box end wrench (American version of ring spanner ;)) that should do the trick!

+1

Use two combination wrenches of roughly the same size.

This photo was taken with the wrenches upside down (tighten not loosen) but you get the idea from this. I use this trick in the field often where you encounter a stubborn bolt and a cheater pipe is a long distance away. Works with Kroil very well.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1454530823.jpg

You may want to double check on that strategy to remove it with a 3/8 socket wrench once it's broken loose. It's a fairly long bolt and you might end up backing the head of the socket wrench into the trailing arm and might not be able to get the wrench off. I bought a 19mm ratcheting combo wrench for this very purpose and it worked great. I used the regular 19mm combo wrench and hammer to break it loose, then the ratcheting wrench to remove it.

I used 2 box wrenches just the same as Rusnak and it worked fine.


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Long 19mm wrench and hammer worked just fine. :-)