Quick jack question: sizing for multiple 911s
 

I am looking to buy a Quick jack. The question is which one should I get. I own a 1986 Targa and a 997.2 Coupe. I believe that I need the 5000XL for it to be long enough to reach the lift points on the 997.2. What I am worried about is that it will be too long for the air cooled 911. Any help out there?

I'm planning to get the 5000SLX (the latest long model) for my 911SC. Should be fine, at this link you'll see the 5000SLX lifting a 911SC: Pelican QuickJack Page

It's not obviously the 5000SLX, but if you view the video carefully at the end when they are picking up the QuickJack and stowing it against the wall, you can see a 5000SLX label on it.

Mark

Was going to ask a similar question.
Is the 3500 series too short for a 911sc, as the DC powered 3500 is light and relatively cheap for taking to the track (compared to the newer 5000 series models)
Anyone using either of the older model 3500 or 5000 on a pre 89 car and how does it line up with pad positions for jacking.

Alot of money to pay for a lift that you can't do an engine drop with.

The 3500SLX and 7000SLX units are on back order until the beginning of May. The number in front of the SLX is the capacity, so what you'll want to look at is the overall frame length. The one we used in the video was a BL-5000SLX 72.5". This unit should work for both your 997.2 and your Targa. The BL-5000SLX was designed in specific to fit the 997 chassis as their older BL-5000 unit was too short resulting in people having to modify them. This is no longer the case with the SLX units. Please let me know if anyone has any questions.

If you're wanting extra height, you can purchase the SUV adapters. This is what they look like.

http://i.imgur.com/M90rgay.jpg

Thank you for this information. This is exactly what I needed. Also thanks for the tip on getting the SUV adapter for extra height.

If I had the kind of headroom that is in that photo Luccia posted, I would probably agree. But I have a 2-car garage underneath our house with a large I-beam down the middle that supports the floors above.

The 911 is on one side, the other side has tools, shelves, and stuff. In the driveway are three daily drivers (soon to be four).

I only have room for about 30 inches of lift, and that is positioning the 911 so the roof will clear the I-beam. So I can't use much more than the 22 inches of lift that the QuickJack provides. The portability so I can use the lift in the driveway on the other cars is an added bonus. I'm planning on the 12V version that I can power from my 12V jump start battery.

Here are the dimensions of the various models:
https://msalvetti.smugmug.com/photos...-HJ8LHhw-L.jpg

The 50 inch spacing of the lifting blocks on the 3500 lift isn't enough for a 911. I measure about 54 inches on my SC.

BTW, the free shipping deal that Pelican has going now for these lifts is the way to go. Luccia explained to me that the lift will be delivered to my door. If you order directly from Bendpak, I think there are extra charges for home delivery, and you have to get it off the truck yourself. I believe Bendpak's free shipping is to a local freight terminal, where you have to go pick it up. There may be extra charges there too.

Mark

So with the suv adapters does this give you enough height for engine drop?

I've used a 5000SLX with my early 911, no problem.

I don't know if it'll give you enough height for an engine drop -- I haven't tried.

I'm thinking about installing a lift in the new shop when we build it. That means I can plan ahead and install the lift below grade. Most likely, this will be for the aircooled 911, Cayman, and small light duty vehicles like my Kubota RTV. The forklift, flatbed truck, etc are strickly off limits for the lift.

Which lift do you guys recommend for maximum flexibility?

Don't forget that you will still need enough room between the frame of the QuickJack and the lift point to squeeze in the adapters. If the car is lowered, there isn't much you can do to gain extra lift.

The frame of the lift is only 11 inches wide. I think it might be easier to use a couple of 2x12's under the QuickJack than spending >$200 on the SUV adapters, assuming you can do that and still have room to install the rubber blocks. Then again, each piece of the 5000SLX weighs 80 pounds, so not so easy to get it up on the 2x12's.

The other trick using this for an engine drop is the car doesn't go straight up. As the lift unfolds, it looks like the car will move backwards about 12 inches. So you've got to be able to slide the engine backwards on a jack or small lift as the car is rising.

Mark

Thanks for the feedback on the 3500 Mark

If you look at the picture that Luccia posted, it looks like the car was orginaly on those Race Ramp wheel/tire cradles. And then lifted using the SUV adapters.

Good point, you can do the extra lift in a couple of steps.

I just got my 3500. but when I went to slide under my 85 911, I cannot get the lift points on the quickjack to line up with front and rear lift points on the car.

I will also be using on a 86 944turbo and 84 928. have not tried either of them, but suspect I'll encounter the same issue.

advice? experience?

I hate to tell you this, but you may have made an expensive mistake getting the 3500 instead of the 5000.

The newer 5000SLX lift is extra long, in part because the original 5000-SL was not quite long enough for 911's. There is a YouTube video on how to modify a 5000-SL, but the 3500 is even shorter. And I would be very nervous about messing around with the structural bits of something that is holding a car up over my head (Standard disclaimer - I wouldn't do it).

Maybe if you spread the load out better, say with some wood between the body of the car and the rubber block, you can lift the 911 without damaging the belly pan, but I'm not sure.

Mark