Removing Door Panels

[JR Indy]

Before I start removing the door panels myself, looking for any input or things to avoid so no damage is done.

I need to get to my window motors and tracks to see why the hesitance in lowering the window. First inch is fine, then it slows way down for a few inches, then ok.

Any experience here guys?

[Nickalex86]

Same question, different car. 1970 t. Thanks.

Nick

[fred cook]

I just went thru the slow window syndrome on a 1980 911SC coupe. To pull the door panels, you will need a Phillips head screwdriver, an allen wrench (6mm I think), a piece of paper and a pencil.
1. remove the two screws that hold on the "shelf" at the top of the window. Lift off and carefully disconnect the mirror switch.
2. remove the 6 or so screws that hold on the pocket. One is hiding in the pocket going forward into the door pull.
3. Now you can get to the two screws that hold on the pocket lid.
4. Carefully pry the center cap out of the door lock knob, remove one screw, the knob and surround.
5. remove the front mounting bracket for the pocket (1 screw)
6. pull the door latch slightly open and disconnect the latch by
glently pressing upward on the latch rod.
7. Use the allen wrench to remove the 4 allen screws for the door pull.
8. check the door panel for any miscellaneous screws.
9. Carefully pry the window switches out of the door panel, take the piece of paper/pencil and note the wiring connections. Disconnect the switches.
10. carefully pull the door panel off the door. there will be 4-6 plastic "snaps" that hold it on.
11. Remove the 4 screws that hold in the door speaker, remove
wiring connections.
12. There should be a piece of opaque plastic behind the door panel that acts as a vapor barrier. Carefully peel it off and save.

At this point, the door should be completely exposed and ready for examination. There is an anti-rattle strip that snaps into the door on the outside of the window just below the outside window wiper. Check to see if this has deterioriated, broken and folded over to partially jam the window. If you need to replace this piece, you will have to remove 5 or 6 more allen bolts (3 or 4 mm) and pull the entire window frame out the top of the door. Then carefully pull the glass out of the lifter frame on the regulator. At this point, I would go ahead and replace all the seals, wipers, anti-rattle strips, etc. Also check the door stop while in there. If you need to replace the seals under the door handle, remove the two nuts holding the handle in place. Reassemble in reverse order.

Good Luck!

Fred Cook

[Sunroof]

For the roll up window variety such as the "T" remember that the arm rest is held on by several allen bolts deep into the bottom of the armrest at an angle. These are easy to strip if your not careful. Use anti-seize when replacing. When you take that bungge cord tensioned storage compartment off its a good time to replace the bungee cord to draw the compartment tighter if needed. The map pocket is held in by two bolts with a metal plate behind it that controls the movement of the bungee tensioned compartment and has a hole for the knotted end of the bungee.

I had to rework my window regulator, so I learned by trial and error on this one. The plastic cover if messed up can be replaced with a simple large plastic garbage bag cut to the original template. I held it on the door with rubber cement and it holds fine.

One more interesting item. Their is a hole in the forward part of the front of the door on the bottom thats easily reached by hand.
This is where that little costly rubber plug goes that keeps the wind noise down. Apparently wind rushes up through this hole toward the dash. On my 73.5T that plug will not fit all the way in due to a slight rise in the metal. I used a piece of duck tape instead and it works fine.

The door panel really is no big deal, just take your time and remember where everything goes back! Its a good time to lubricate the spring in the regulator and the lower window channel as well as the door lock mechanism.

Regards
Bob

[MBAtarga]

On my SC, it was not necessary to completely remove the door panel to troubleshoot my window adjustment problem. One comment on Fred's instructions (very good, by the way ) - if you're going to remove the wires from the window switches, disconnect the battery first to avoid sparks! Don't ask how I know this...

[JR Indy]

Fred,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I just completed the driver and passenger sides. With your reply plus a few previous threads on slow windows, I now have the fastest windows in the midwest.

Now, on to the shift coupler bushings, new struts, replace brake pads, etc.