Specialty tools for engine drop "77" 911

[Dale Durbin]

Getting everything together to do in engine drop and was wondering what specialty tools I might need. Thanks in advance for your help.

[PCA7GGR]

The only special tool I can think of is the clutch alignment rod I'd you plan to split the engine $ tranny.

[fanaudical]

I managed to drop the engine/trans from my '75 with just a floor jack, a little craddle I built with 2x4's, jack stands, and the "normal" hand tools.

No special tools showed up until it was time for rebuild and putting it back...

[Dale Durbin]

Originally Posted by fanaudical

I managed to drop the engine/trans from my '75 with just a floor jack, a little craddle I built with 2x4's, jack stands, and the "normal" hand tools.

No special tools showed up until it was time for rebuild and putting it back...

I've got a good set of mechanics tools, you know sockets wrenches and stuff most anything to work on my American cars but I'm very new to the P car and
just didn't know if there was anything out of the ordinary that I might need before I start
The car has been sitting for 10 years and I'm also trying to put together a list of things to do once I get the motor out of the car. Thanks guys for your reply

[rusnak]

There are threads on methods to do an engine drop. I suggest using Google.

Type this: site:forums.pelicanparts.com "engine drop"

You may come across some useful info that way.

[Targalid]

Pelican has a technical article section. Try this: Pelican Technical Article: Engine Removal - 911 (1965-89) - 930 Turbo (1975-89)

[rattlsnak]

Originally Posted by PCA7GGR

The only special tool I can think of is the clutch alignment rod I'd you plan to split the engine $ tranny.

oh, you mean the big prybar.. lol..

[Mick_D]

you're going to need a couple of BIG adjustable wrenches to do the oil lines. 30+mm open-ended, for example.

[fanaudical]

Oh - I forgot about the oil lines (mine didn't have the external cooler when I started). Yes, a couple big adjustable wrenches are helpful. I think the oil line fittings would use 30, 32, and 36mm open-end wrenches.

[Dale Durbin]

Thanks again for your replys this is truly a great site. I have always
Loved the Porsches and can't wait to get mine on the road. This will be
the first time I've taken an engine out from under the car but I'm excited to
Do so. I have been reading everything I can on the car and have some
Concerns but very eager to get started. Thanks again and please keep an eye out
for my future posts as I know I will need some help once I get into this
motor. Cheers

[Guardsred911]

If you can source a couple plugs to thread into the oil lines, it keeps it from dripping... That said, I have no idea what thread they are... Alternatively, just wrap the ind with a nitrile glove and be done.... These can be a pain if you haven't done them.... Go slow, and use heat/ cold if they are stuck...

[Dale Durbin]

Thanks J that's the kind of info I'm in need of, any little tricks
that you guys have gone through will be of great help to me.

[stormcrow]

Dale,

Here are some pictures of how I did my 78

Targa

[stormcrow]

Dale,

First disconnect the linkage inside the cabin between the shift lever shaft and the transmission shaft. Next disconnect the CV Joints, Accelerator linkage, Shift cable, speedometer cable, ground strap on engine next to transmission support, starter cable and connections to starter selenoid valve. Drain the engine oil and disconnect the oil lines that connect to the engine. Also don't forget to disconnect the Heater hoses.

Next disconnect the fuel line at the engine to include the fuel supply and return line along with the line going to the fuel filter. Next disconnect the electrical connections from the engine to the side wall. Disconnect the refrigerant lines along with the electrical going to the compressor.

Once you are sure you have everything disconnected, put the motorcycle jack under the engine with a couple 2 x 4's for better support and to help keep the engine stable. Then install the floor jack under the transmission support.

You can do this with the engine jacked up enough so you can get under it. Once the jacks are in place, loosen the transmission bolts on the transmission support bracket so that the floor jack is supporting the transmission end. Next loosen and remove the rear engine mounting bolts and allow the motorcycle jack to support the engine.

You are now ready to start jacking up the body. In the pics I used 3 ton floor jacks but I have since bought 12 ton because of having to raise the rear of the car up so high - I believe it's about 33" with the rear bumper removed.

Start jacking the rear of the car up paying attention to make sure nothing catches or is binding. At the same time pay attention to the transmission shaft tunnel where the transmission shaft goes through. As you jack the rear end up, you will need to use the floor jack to raise the transmission to keep the shaft centered in the tunnel.

Continue jacking the body up, until it gets to the point where you can start to pull it out from under the body. Make sure nothing is binding while jacking the car up - it is very important. Make sure nothing is binding on top of the engine when you start to pull the engine out.

It should take you about 4 hours total to do this if everything goes smoothly. I have done this several times on my 78 but I always double check to make sure everything is disconnected.

Can't emphasize that enough - pay attention and the engine will come out with no problem. Reverse the procedure for installation.

This pretty much covers the best way to remove the engine. Once the engine is out the motorcycle jack will support the engine but you need to be careful moving it around. I usually put a 12 x 12 dolly under the transmission for additional support.

Northern Tool has the jack and dolly - the 12 ton jacks I purchased used on craigslist because they allow you to raise the body as high as you need to without worry. As you can see by the 3 ton jack stands I used I had to place wood between the jack stand and the frame - never use metal on metal. Always use wood in between because of the possibilitiy of "****" happening. Good Luck.

[Dale Durbin]

Steve, thank you so much for taking your time to send me such a detailed explanation as well as the pictures it will really help me out. I really appreciate you taking the time to do so.

[KevinB_NJ]

Originally Posted by stormcrow

Dale,

Here are some pictures of how I did my 78

Targa

That's the cleanest motor and trans I've ever seen, coming out of a car! Awesome

[75 911s]

^ That is what I was thinking. Great tips. The wood buffer looks a bit precarious. You say don't use metal on metal, but I like the cradle of my jack stand holding the torsion bar. Maybe just cardboard and a rag to prevent scuffing or metal/metal damage.

BTW what are you using for your heat exchanger tubing?