Cab locking motors and manual conversion
 

Hi,

I have an 89 cab that had a main bow break a few years ago and at that point I just disconnected the motors and moved it manually. I was still able to use the electric locks as that part continued to work. One of the locking motors has stopped working, I am still trying to troubleshot exactly why (motor, wiring, microswitch?). In the meantime I am looking at options to convert to manual locking. There are a number of posts related to swapping out the motors and the head latch for the manual parts (not to easy to find anymore).

I have not yet taken apart the motor but for some pictures I wanted to see if using the same locking mechanism that the motor uses could be modified for manual use. What I am not able to tell is if the latching/lock is actually held by the motor or if once the latch is turned fully there is some other mechanical lock that holds things in place.

I am also interested in converting my 993 cab to manual. There is supposed to be a conversion kit for $600-$700 but haven't found it yet.

Thought I would add some info and also give this a bump to see if there are any thoughts on the conversion.

After some troubleshooting it appears that I am not getting power to the right locking motor. both microswithcs seem good. From what I can tell this could be an issue with the control module or something in the wire? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Have not pulled out the motors yet as I can at least lock the top using the manual screw, maybe a small battery operated screwdriver would solve the problem

A bit more troubleshooting. I disconnected the wire harness to the left motor and connected it to the right and the right motor works. It seems to be an issue with the wiring for the right side. Can I just wire the 2 motors together? At this point I am thinking it may be the control unit. As far as I understand it that is where the power comes from.

do both micro-switches on the header bow work? The control units often have cracked solder joints that need to be reflowed. Pop off the covers and check them with a strong magnifying glass. Look for circular cracks in the solder.

Both microswitches do seem to work. When I switch the power harness from left to right I can make either side work

you checked them with an ohmmeter?

Yes checked both with ohmmeter and they work

Cabriolet operation......
 

Subscribed.........it has been awhile since I was able to operate the '89 cabriolet top electrically. Been doing a manual operation since the latches motor stopped working. Wish I have a manual cabriolet top.

Tony

Let me ask another question. Since it seems both locking motors are working and the main top motors also work, although I have not been using them. What would these motors be worth as I am hoping it might cover the parts for the manual conversion. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Cabriolet top frame motors......
 

I thought they were expensive when my '89 cabriolet failed to operate electrically. So when I found a guy selling a pair of motors in excellent condition, I grabbed them. Paid less than $100 shipped. Both motors were tested and they looked new. It turned out that my motors are still good and no need to replace them. The problem is some where else and I have no idea where to start.

Tony

I've searched RL as well as Pelican for a comprehensive parts list and / or procedure for converting automatic to manual Cabrio top operation for my 1988 and I haven't found anything. Does anybody know of either a parts list or detailed procedure?

I've reached out to DC Auto, to source conversion parts, via email, responding to PP posts and via telephone. I'm disheartened to say that none of my attempts to contact them has yielded a single response. I find this odd given that I am trying to give them some of my money.

So far my research here and on RL has resulted in my disconnecting the two drive arms from the transmissions and fabricating an arm that engages the passenger side transmission microswitch, such that I operate the header lock motors to latch & unlatch the top and the power top motors only run for a brief moment in either direction before the dash mounted top operation lamp extinguishes. I manually raise and lower the top itself.

In a perfect world, I would remove both sets of electric motors and the two transmissions, that are currently all operable, adjusted & working perfectly, and put them in a box and lose all of that weight / complexity in favor of the blissfully simple manual latch system. I am not interested in making any adjustments to the system upon reinstallation though, so I would only remove items that would be bolt off / on.

Here are a couple of my posts from another recent thread...

My take on a conversion was to loosen the 2 bolts, one on each side for the rear motor to be manual and replace the left/right motors with a manual lever like mid 80's cabs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1457378958.jpg

some parts numbers I researched:

from the 993 forum: (1993 911 cab)

911 565 075 62 Handle X2
911 565 031 63 Catch Left
911 565 032 64 Catch Right

964 info:

964-565-032-00 (right)
964-565-031-00 (left)

Use a pair of manual latches and release handles in the header bow and change the striker on the w/s frame to the manual ones, they're shaped differently. Loosen the big bolts on each gearbox so the mechanisms are free. Only way to fly.

I chased problems with my power top until rebuilding the ECU under the passenger side of the dash. Haven't had a problem in the 2-3 years since. I was about to give up on it! Love the power top option for low-speed drives. Normally I put the boot cover on. Very good service and fast turn-around.

Porsche 911 Convertible Top Control Unit ECU 911.618.313.00, 911 618 313 00 - Specialized ECU Repair

I want to fly (like an eagle?).

I have:
A) The big transmission bolts loosened (removed actually, but same difference).
B) A pair of manual release handles.

I want: Confirmation that all I need to complete the project is a A) pair of manual latches ("catch" per PET) and B) black striker plates ("gate guide" per PET) and C) their respective part numbers for a 1988 (I'm not a pro at deciphering PET Remarks column when there is more than one part number option for a given part).

I also understand, from a different thread that new / different "rosette" trim pieces are required for the manual catches / latches.

Thanks for the help everyone!

I can't confirm part numbers due to my windows based PET CD not being accepted on my new iMAC. (Anyone know the fix?) From pelican, looks like 964 565 031 63 and 032 63.
The roller latches and strikers would be from a late 80s, early 90s targa, with their related handles. The handles have a female square end, not the T style of the old ones. 911 565 075 62.

been struggling with the power top on my 86 Carrera for several years. I bought Targa latches and handles about three years ago, but can't seem to find the plates for the top of the windshield. I thought maybe there were holes under the power windshield plates, but no such luck.
Any one know the availability and part numbers for the plates I need ? If not has anyone used "Specialized ECU Repair" in Florida?
I talked to them today and because they have no 911 618 313 00 control units for exchange it will cost me $375.00 to get mine fixed IF it checks bad.
If it's good $75.00 to check it out.
Below are pictures of what I have.
Any help appreciated....
Thankshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459290164.jpg

Those are earlier latches. '86 takes roller latches. They're still valuable. Check prices.