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That Guy
 
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Replacing fender mounted oil cooler lines pictorial

Tackled replacement of the flexible oil lines to the fender mounted oil cooler last week. Not an overly difficult job, but some parts were a pain in the butt as expected. The oil line nuts are steel while the oil tubing is brass and the oil cooler fittings are aluminum...this is a recipe for galvanic corrosion. You may have success with liberal heat, but the differences in metal would make this tricky; brass and aluminum will heat up much faster than the steel fittings potentially making them even harder to get off. I decided to just split the nuts in half using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel.

The parts used for this job...

-Griffiths oil cooler lines
-Seal for oil cooler shroud (OE or generic seal from McMaster PN# 12335A25)
-Lower temp fan switch from BMW, PN# 61-31-1-364-272-91-M36
-Foam seal around hoses PN# 930-207-361-00-OEM : This was probably not necessary to replace, my seal was in good condition still. I already had it on hand so i replaced it.
-Rubber oil cooler mounts PN# 930-207-239-02-M260 : Three of these are used, i broke one of them during removal due to a rusted nut. If you want to minimize downtime, consider ordering before hand. I replaced the two lower mounts as i broke one and the other was hard as a rock.

Here is what i started with; as you can see the shroud / seal was completely gone and the lines were original as far as i could tell. No leaks, but the return line looks like it was quite dirty indicating it may have been close.



The only tools really needed for the job are a Dremel with cutoff wheels, 10in adjustable, 12in adjustable and a flat tip screw driver. If you have the proper sized wrenches though the oil lines are 36mm fittings, to counter hold the oil tubes are 30mm and the fittings on the oil cooler are 32mm. Also put a plastic bag over the hub / rotor / caliper as some oil will drip down on it.



I sprayed Kroil on the fittings over a few hour period but still was unable to loosen the fittings with the wrenches. Space is limited and the adjustables offer limited throw, i decided to just cut the nuts in half using the Dremel. Here is the initial cut i made, i started on the tubing side first.



From this point, i kept checking every few seconds to make sure i didnt cut too deep. Here you can see i just barely started cutting into the threads on the tubing. Getting to this point took a little under a minute. Just go slow so you dont cut too deep into the threads.



I think i made one or two more passes with the cut off wheel at this point, i stuck a flat tip screw driver in the slot and twisted, with very little force the nut split right open. With the tension off the nut, i was able to spin the fitting off the wrenches without much effort.



I had to cut a fair bit deeper on the cooler side in order to get the nuts to split.



I removed the three 13mm nuts for the oil cooler mount, then disconnected the harness for the fan switch and the fan itself. Pictured are the connectors located by the spare tire. Once disconnected, push the wire grommets through and feed the rest of the harness through the holes in the body.



The harness / grommets as seen from outside the car.



With the harness free, you can now wrestle the oil cooler out. Be prepared for the amount of sand / gravel that is going to drop out.

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Jon
1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 03-11-2016, 12:23 AM
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That Guy
 
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Shown are the cut marks left in the fittings. You can see on the brass tubing i just touched the threads and on the cooler i had to go a little deeper. The fittings are a conical seal, so this will not affect the integrity of the fitting.







Close up of the cut nuts on the hoses.



With the cooler out i flushed the fins of the core out with fairly high pressure water from a garden hose to get all the sand out of it. The amount of gravel, rocks and sand washed out was impressive to say the least. Once everything was cleaned up, i reassembled. Rather than use the OE shroud seal, i took advice from some older threads and purchased a seal from McMaster Carr. The seal part # is 12335A25 , i ordered 5ft which is the minimum quantity. Total cost was $22. The new seal works well, i used some trim adhesive on the complex corners to help it stay in place. I was left with about 8-10 inches extra.

McMaster-Carr

The replacement oil lines are from Griffifths and are available from our host. The hoses are very good quality with German made fittings. I would flush both oil lines out sufficiently with water, i found a fair amount of metallic dust inside the hoses, probably from when the steel braided line was cut.



You can see i also replaced the fan switch with the lower temp one from a BMW; part # 61-31-1-364-272-91-M36 . This switch will turn the fan on at 196F rather than the stock 248F. To wire the switch, i cut the old connector off and crimped a spade terminal on. The original ground wire that mounts on the cooler was moved to the switch.





After reinstalling the cooler, i found that i had to remove the clamps for the oil tubing. This gave me enough flex in the tubing to get the new hoses connected. Once the hoses are threaded on you can refit all of the body clamps.



And here is everything back together. The seal for the shroud fits pretty well, but you can see it does not extend out far enough up against the bumper. I plan to use the left over piece of the seal to cover the last part. The OE seal is $100, so it comes down to if you want to save $80 or not.

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Jon
1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1

Last edited by Techno Duck; 03-11-2016 at 12:36 AM..
Old 03-11-2016, 12:24 AM
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KNS KNS is offline
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Nice work. I noticed the little yellow torque stripes on nuts - I do the same thing with critical fasteners (common in aviation applications).

Did you use any sort of anti seize on the threads?
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Old 03-11-2016, 06:43 AM
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You can buy a small piece of backer bar to install in that hole. Backer bar is made to fill holes in log homes so you don't use as muck caulk. I have several feet if you want I'll send you a foot long piece.
Old 03-11-2016, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno Duck View Post
And here is everything back together. The seal for the shroud fits pretty well, but you can see it does not extend out far enough up against the bumper.
I can't tell, do you still have that big fat hunk of c-channel metal between the cooler and the bumper? I thought that kinda filled that gap up, and it doesn't look like you still have it.
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Old 03-11-2016, 07:46 AM
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KNS, i work with a lot of heavy equipment in my day job so its a habit i picked up. I have a bad memory also so i am usually second guessing myself if i remembered to torque something. I did use liberal amounts of anti-seize on the threads of everything. Hopefully this makes disassembly in the future easy if required.

Pazuzu, any pictures of what your referring too? It did not appear i was missing anything going off the part diagram in PET, but after 160k+ miles its possible.
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Jon
1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 03-11-2016, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno Duck View Post
Pazuzu, any pictures of what your referring too? It did not appear i was missing anything going off the part diagram in PET, but after 160k+ miles its possible.
From this thread:
'88 911 Bumper Removal
You can see a few pictures showing the big c-channel protection bar that bolts to the bumper and protects the oil cooler:
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Mike Bradshaw

1980 911SC sunroof coupe, silver/black: The Wurster
2006 Mazda3 5 door, M-speed exhaust: The Ricer
Putting the sick back into sycophant!
Old 03-11-2016, 07:59 PM
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Thanks for the link, i am definitely missing that piece. Ill have to poke around for one. PET does show it as part #2 but does not list a part number or description. Anyone have any other info on that piece? Purpose or better picture? Looking at the PET diagram it appears it only wraps around 1/4 of the bumper on that side.

I found this also from a very old post, arrow on the right;



Subconsciously it will annoy me now that i am missing that piece... .
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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1

Last edited by Techno Duck; 03-11-2016 at 09:53 PM..
Old 03-11-2016, 09:50 PM
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Lot of guy's don't reinstall that piece. It's there to reduce damage to the oil cooler during a accident. In 1974 the car's were mandated to withstand a 5 mph crash with little or no damage to reduce insurance claims. I may have one of those if you want it send me a PM.
Old 03-12-2016, 06:56 AM
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I went quite a bit deeper on the cuts on the oil lines, unfortunately! Given the conical fittings, I am thinking the "cone" will support any loss of integrity by a cut in the threads. What do you think? How is your installation holding up?

Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno Duck View Post
Shown are the cut marks left in the fittings. You can see on the brass tubing i just touched the threads and on the cooler i had to go a little deeper. The fittings are a conical seal, so this will not affect the integrity of the fitting.







Close up of the cut nuts on the hoses.



With the cooler out i flushed the fins of the core out with fairly high pressure water from a garden hose to get all the sand out of it. The amount of gravel, rocks and sand washed out was impressive to say the least. Once everything was cleaned up, i reassembled. Rather than use the OE shroud seal, i took advice from some older threads and purchased a seal from McMaster Carr. The seal part # is 12335A25 , i ordered 5ft which is the minimum quantity. Total cost was $22. The new seal works well, i used some trim adhesive on the complex corners to help it stay in place. I was left with about 8-10 inches extra.

McMaster-Carr

The replacement oil lines are from Griffifths and are available from our host. The hoses are very good quality with German made fittings. I would flush both oil lines out sufficiently with water, i found a fair amount of metallic dust inside the hoses, probably from when the steel braided line was cut.



You can see i also replaced the fan switch with the lower temp one from a BMW; part # 61-31-1-364-272-91-M36 . This switch will turn the fan on at 196F rather than the stock 248F. To wire the switch, i cut the old connector off and crimped a spade terminal on. The original ground wire that mounts on the cooler was moved to the switch.





After reinstalling the cooler, i found that i had to remove the clamps for the oil tubing. This gave me enough flex in the tubing to get the new hoses connected. Once the hoses are threaded on you can refit all of the body clamps.



And here is everything back together. The seal for the shroud fits pretty well, but you can see it does not extend out far enough up against the bumper. I plan to use the left over piece of the seal to cover the last part. The OE seal is $100, so it comes down to if you want to save $80 or not.


Last edited by garment; 05-15-2016 at 02:49 PM..
Old 05-15-2016, 02:44 PM
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Buy backer rod foam seal cheap.
Old 05-15-2016, 02:54 PM
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Garment, no worries. The threads do not do any of the sealing so as long as you can still thread on the fitting you will not have any problems.
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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
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Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 05-15-2016, 05:30 PM
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Thanks, this learning by doing on my most prized possession can really make ya crazy, ya know?

(Inserting whatever substitutes for a thumbs-up emoji here!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno Duck View Post
Garment, no worries. The threads do not do any of the sealing so as long as you can still thread on the fitting you will not have any problems.
Old 05-15-2016, 05:50 PM
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Oil cooler fan temp sensor.

Another option:



^^^^^
Close @ 210f

Open @ 197f

Gerry
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Old 05-15-2016, 06:03 PM
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Because photobucket sucks, i dumped the pictures onto imgur. Im too lazy to update my original post so here is everything...









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Jon
1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 09-11-2017, 07:22 PM
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Jon
1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 09-11-2017, 07:23 PM
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Finally got the lines loose....what a PITA...now can't remove the cooler itself. The top nut and one bottom nut just spin the bolt. The lower one seems to be in a rubber material which I assume to be a mount. Any suggestion?
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Old 09-16-2017, 05:43 PM
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As you noted the metal studs are bonded to the rubber mount.

The PET 911_USA_87_89_KATALOG has a good diagram of the layout on page 39 and our host has a good photo of the rubber part 930-207-239-02.

Try holding the nut on the other side of the mount while removing the nearside nut.

Or

Try holding the rubber mount with a pair of vice-grips and if it still spins try cutting through the rubber with a hacksaw or rotary tool (i.e. Dremel).
Old 09-16-2017, 07:19 PM
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Thanks, I'm considering just leaving well enough alone...not sure what good it will do to take it out. I've looked at it from the wheel well side and it does not seem to be particularly dirty...maybe there's a lot of stuff on the other/front side?
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Old 09-16-2017, 07:39 PM
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I pulled mine last spring and found a bunch of pebbles in the bottom edge of the cooler and several bent fins. While in there I also cleaned the cooler, replaced the seal around the cover plate and changed the fan switch with the Patrick Motorsports ELE930.606.118.PM (Nice kit). The temperature switch dropped my oil temperature to about 220F even in 105 degree heat. Before oil temperature would run about 260-270F in 105 degree heat.
Old 09-16-2017, 08:01 PM
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