There is power to the CDI or there wouldn't be any spark. The same is true of the distributor magnetic trigger so neither of those is likely your problem. I'd be checking the coil wire for continuity.it can be open but passing enough to trigger most timing lights.

Out of curiosity: OP, how did you determine that you have "a pulse" at the the wire from the coil secondary to the distributor center connector?

Timing light first and plug in wire to ground while cranking and fire jumped the insulated pliers and I then was THE ground for 2/10's of a second. Oh, it has FIRE.

Ok. Changed plugs and checked fire to plug wires again and now I'm getting pulse to plug wires so it has fire. I tried a short spray with starting fluid in air box and still not starting. What can I check next? I also swapped fuel pumps by the way. I am getting squealing when I lift plate in air box. Also broke an injector line loose at fuel distributor and turned it over and am getting fuel moving when cranking

Check distributor alignment.
If your coil hv output gives spark, but no spark on plug wires you should rotate the engine to top dead center, check that rockers on cyl1 are not engaging, now you know the engine is set for igniting / firing cyl 1.
The rotor should now point to cylinder1 plug cable inside the cap.
When this is true you should check for correct firing order.

If you really have good spark from coil, and fuel through injectors, I would:

1. Change out Distributor Cap & Rotor
2. Confirm Firing order is correct
3. Reset static timing (Rotor at TDC on CYL 1)

Any of the above that is not right will result in a no start condition. When you pulled the plugs were they wet? Should be if no spark and you've been cranking it a bit. I've bought many a car for pennies on the dollar because someone goofed up the wire order or bad rotor.

Easy to put plug wires back on cap just one location out starting on number one. Then all the rest are out by one.. BTDT... :(