I have 12v at 49 and cont at 31.I do not get pulsing on 49a at all. Last night I traced the ground wire from hazard and it's plugged in with other working grounds under the dash.

I noticed when I rotate/twist the hazard switch in the dash it will cause the blinker relay to click/buzz periodically. It feels like when the twisting creates tension on the certain wires, power transfer happens. My ignorant mind tells me the hazard itself or attached wires have a problem not visible when I crawl under the dash. I have a new hazard on the way because it felt better to order a new part than give up......

My fuse panel labels: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1458902765.jpg

Thanks for the continued ideas.

Did you ever solve this?

I think had similar issues. My bulb sockets are a bit worn and although the bulbs feel smug, if I wiggle them I can get the contacts to fail. I used a small piece of metallic tape around the base of the bulbs to tighten up the fit.

I was away for a few days but got back to it tonight. Installed a new hazard switch and no change. I retested the relay and it still clicks and has continuity on the other two posts. I checked the wires under the dash again and all visible are connected. Tested the ground again and it has continuity.

The front and rear bulbs light when the key is off and I move the blinker stalk up or down. The hazard switch doesn't cause illumination to any light outside or inside the vehicle. I have been assuming the bulbs are not the issue since they do illuminate in the key off scenario. I am assuming if blinking power was sent to the bulbs, they would work meaning the problem is upstream of the bulbs. Maybe that is faulty logic??

Again, thanks for the comments. I am about to add this issue to a short list of items for the mechanic to resolve in a couple weeks.

As others have previously mentioned, the parking lights when the key is off is an entirely different circuit using different filaments in the bulbs. I know it can be misleading since they are controlled from the turn signal switch (but using different contacts)
When you say you get clicking of the turn signal relay, what test are you using?

A quick test to verify the blinker bulbs are all ok is to connect a jumper from the battery to the top of fuse 12 and then fuse 13. You should see the blinkers light up (but not blink) on each side.
Assuming that is successful, do the same thing to the L and R terminals on the hazard switch and the bulbs should light up.

You've already confirmed you have +12 to the flasher relay, both when ignition is on and off (the power comes through different sources for each mode).

With the ignition on, connect a 12V test light between ground and terminal 49a )blk/wht/grn wire) on the hazard switch. You should hear the turn signal relay buzz. If there is no buzz then either the flasher is bad is the circuit connecting to 49a on the flasher is open.

Try these tests and let me know what you find.

I used a jumper why to left and right blinker. All lights front, back, and side light up. My fuse panel, see above, doesn't list separate fuses for hazard. With the hazard button on, jumper to fuse 9 and then 10 both illuminate all lights on left and right side, front and back.

On the relay, I am using jumper wires from battery to terminals 49 and 31. The relay clicks on. When I keep the wires connected, I then test 49a and C for continuity and the meter buzzes.

Since putting in the new hazard switch, I have no power to the plug for thre blinker relay. I had power at the hole when male 49 plugs. I am going to check the power at the various terminals plugged to the hazard and will post shortly.

At the hazard: 30 has 12v key off and key on, 49 has 12v key off and key on, 49a has no power key on or off or if I move blinker stalk, 58 has no wire connected or available, 31 is ground with continuity, L has no power key on or off, 15 has 12v key on but no power key off, and R has no power key on or off.

Most of that is correct but you with ignition on you should have 12v on 49a coming back from the flasher relay.
Is it possible to make the same measurement on 49a at the relay? If 12v is there then the wire from 49a to the hazard switch (and also to the directional stalk) is open.
If there is no 12v at the relay on 49a then the relay is bad.

The way the flasher works is with power to 49 and 31 grounded, there should be 12v at 49a. When you connect a load (the lights) to 49a they flash. If 2 bulbs (or 4 in the case of the hazards) it will flash normally. If only one bulb, because one is burned out, if will flash faster to warn you. When you connect a meter or test light, it's not enough load so the flasher will probably just buzz.

The other thing that's not right is constant 12v at 49 on the hazard switch. 49 is the power supply to the flasher relay. With the ignition off and hazard switch off there should be no voltage.

With ignition on and hazard off you will have 12v.
With Ignition off and hazard on you will have 12v.
Try measuring at terminal 49 on the hazard switch with the wire disconnected. Maybe 12v is somehow being fed back from the flasher. Do you still have some jumpers at the relay supplying power?
Is looks like the wire from 49a on the flasher has no continuity back to the hazard/turn signal switches.

No wire on 58 means your model had no provision for a dim light on the hazard switch when the dash lights are on.

OK I retested 49 and it works as you describe. I did not completely grasp all the scenarios with the hazard switch being in the on or off positions.

I just attached a jumper wire from battery to terminal 49a on my relay with the relay plugged in to the socked. I have 12v at the the 49a terminal of the relay and 12v at the 49a terminal of the hazard switch. When I turn the blinker stalk left and right, the correct side exterior lights illuminate and both lights (left and right) in the tach illuminate. I am fairly confident the relay is bad because when I open it up, there is a solder point broken and when I test the relay with jumpers, it doesn't click. I tried the same jumper to 49a process with the relay I just purchased and it acts the same as described above. I am going to try re-soldering the point on the original relay to see if I can get that one to function again.

I am not getting power to 49 at the relay, or 49a at the relay, without using the jumper wire described above.

Thanks again for all your help and suggestions.

Any opinions on the two relays pictured? Left side is relay I removed that had been in the car and working for at least the last three years I have owned the car. I can't get solder to hold on the loose joint in lower right corner which is the 30 pin. Relay on right was just purchased from host. I have no electrical knowledge but they look quite a bit different.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1459602741.jpg

Installed a new relay, using the OE supplier instead of Wehrle pictured above and had no success. The mystery for me is having power, key on, at the 49 wire leaving the hazard switch and not having power in the 49 female hole in the relay plug. The wiring diagram in Bentley seems to show those are one and the same path, acknowledging there is a plug interface half way. I unplugged that connection and had continuity from 49 to one of the male ends. I could not test female from that plug to 49 female of the plug that accepts the relay. If I understand the path correctly, that seems like that is the only possible break point?

Well you've definitely tracked down the issue and it just failed while in storage? Wiring diagram shows it's a red/white wire. Maybe there is more than one connector in the path. The 12v gets to the connector you found but doesn't continue on to the flasher, right?
Where is your hazard switch located? Dashboard or center console?
The flasher is up behind the fuel gauge?
It's mostly likely an oxidized pin on a connector. Have you reseated all of the round 6 pin connectors that scattered under the dashboard? I think there are 4 total...not sure about you model

Thanks Phoenix. After draining, I sent the fluids used by the PO out for contaminant testing. It came back very weak indicating it likely came from Walmart. I found some Porsche Classic fluid and replaced. It was a reasonable deal at $75.10 per quart. I will never understand owners who don't use quality materials......

Time to spend some additional time under the dash. Thanks again for the guidance.

To close this out: when I grab the plug under the dash that connects the wires coming from the hazard heading to the blinker relay and twist, I can hear the relay clicking. This is roughly the same thing I noticed earlier when I twisted the hazard itself enough to stress the wires behind. I knew I had 12v from 49 wire on the hazard to the male end of the plug under the dash. I was not getting 12v consistently at the female end of 49 at the blinker relay plug. Seems obvious now but was foggy for many days, there is a short or less then good connection at that plug under the dash for only that 49 pin as all other functions worked. Strangely it all worked last fall so this happened sitting in the storage garage all winter.

By twisting the plug and slightly separating the male side under the dash, I got it to a spot where I have 12v flowing and the blinkers work all the way around. While not a finale solution, I am confident (famous last words) I will be able to manipulate the male and female ends of 49 at the plug under the dash to establish a solid connection.

I will ignore whether or not the original relay was bad, which I replaced twice, and the hazard switch, which I also replaced. Those expenses are a learning tax willingly paid and now I have spares for the next time.

Thanks again for the guidance as I would not have arrived at the source problem on my own.

Good work. At least if the problem returns, you know where to look.