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Chassis dip at Carolina Chem-Strip?
Does anyone have experience with Carolina Chem-Strip in Burlington, NC? I'm planning on taking my disassembled chassis, doors, hood and deck lid there.
Also, is it best to address the obvious rust cancer (like the giant holes in the floor pan) before or after the dip?
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Erik __________________ 1969 911T 2.0L Coupe 2014 Jetta TDI SportWagen |
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03-14-2016, 01:06 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Posts: 376
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No experience with them. I'd strip first then repair. How else would you know how bad the cancer is?
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03-14-2016, 01:17 PM
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Contact Aaron at Zuffenhaus. They have a frame that supports the chassis so it can be handled without damaging the shell. They also are set up to work with a company nearby to E coat the shell after the body is stripped; about the best way to prepare a shell before rust repair
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1970 914-6 street"evil cockaroach" 1970 911 Targa "ST" Jade Green IROC Tribute (ready to race) |
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03-14-2016, 01:24 PM
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TRE Cup, Thanks for the response. I sent a msg to Aaron and may even fabricate a frame if it can serve the dual purpose of a car dolly during the restoration.
In terms of sequence, do people chemically strip the chassis, followed by metal repair, and then E coat? Or is the E coat done before the body work? Thanks again.
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Erik __________________ 1969 911T 2.0L Coupe 2014 Jetta TDI SportWagen |
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03-20-2016, 05:14 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Philadelphia Area
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The chem strip process is the best. Usually after this process the car is washed [dipped] and then phosphate coated [dipping again] phosphate coating protects for a while while you repair metal, you then scuff and prime with epoxy.
Dipping it obviously will get into every crevice, your car will go through steps to wash and coat with phosphate as i wrote above after the chemical stripper does it's job. I haven't used the company in NC you ask about but i would begin to talk to them and not us about what exactly will take place. Remove everything you don't want dissolved. Doors, hood suspension obviously too. Note: If i were doing this for you i would drill 5/8" access/drain holes in the structures longitudinal cavities and a few other [btwn sus pan halves, rear cross member etc.,] to allow chemical to go into and drain and allow the protective phosphate to get in and drain out as well. Door posts have drains already and the doors will be off already so the chem will get in by way of the hinge mount holes, but some areas like the wheel house need openings. Familiarize yourself with the Porsche 911/912 structure and lead your project. You will also need these access holes to apply paint into the structure as phosphate coatings do not last like good old epoxy or galv primer which is what i would use in our part of the country [humid]. You then simply weld the holes closed and no one is the wiser.. good luck 
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Matt Mariani @the_r_institute Authorized Retailer FIKSE Wheels Mod Italian Wheels Maxilite classic wheels Last edited by Fixer; 03-21-2016 at 07:22 AM.. Reason: clarity |
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03-21-2016, 07:11 AM
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1969 911T 2.0L Coupe
