Those contemplating shift bushing replacement...
 

There have been a few posts recently about replacing the shift coupler bushing. After doing mine...i would say go ahead and do it. Believe it or not, it only took me half an hour to complete! I barely got to finish a beer and i was done. I used an old spark plug socket and an allen wrench socket in tandem with a ball-peen hammer. Basically, I placed the coupler on the spark plug socket, such that the center pin could be hammered down into the hole of the spark plug socket. I then "LIGHTLY" tapped the center pin down into it using a really big allen wrench socket peice to follow it down. I could have used a dowel rod or something a little more 'specialized'...but thats all i had in my toolbox that would work. In any event, it worked like a charm and slid right out and my shifting has definitely improved. I realize that this is probably not the best way to remove the center pin. However, I had the bushings left over from the shift bushing kit i purchased from Pelican and i had some free time. I was fully prepared to buy another coupler if i screwed it up. To close, i would encourage those who are on the fence here to give it a shot. If the pin seems a little stubborn, by all means take the coupler to your local wrench and have them press it out. Here is a pick of mine with a few "graphics" illustrating how the bushing wears.

Actually the factory bushings are designed with a bit of the oblong shape you show on the left. Some brands of replacement bushings come this way too, others are round as you show on the right.

With wear the oblong section gets bigger and looser, calling for replacement.

I think removing the pin is pretty easy. Some recent threads may have overplayed the risk of coupler breakage.

I can report succes on this as well. Just put everything back together last night. With the help of a vice, several sockets and a freezer this project is very doable.

Also, I used a hammer and punch to remove the pin. If I where to do this again I would use Warrens double socket in the vice method. Much less likely to break the coupler.

Hmmn...
 

An hour's worth of work and barely finished a beer? Where are your priorities?

Gordo

Hmmm...guess I'm not worthy. I replaced all three bushings the weekend before last and it took several hours. The shifter bushing (at the shifter base) was a snap. The bushing in the tunnel just aft of that one had to be destroyed to remove and the replacement more than a mother to get in...took using a vice and a number of various sockets, small bracing pieces etc. to distribute the pressure evenly over the bushing and push it in place. The shift coupler bushings also took a little time using the vice and socket method patiently. I was relieved and NEEDED beer afterwards!;) Guess we all have our different areas of expertise...the more mechanical replacements work mine a bit more.
Ryan

one per hr
 

I did mine last week ,3 beers in 3 hours. If I go over my hourly beer intake I will have to redo it the next day , and it usually does not come out as well. johnhttp://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/pirate.gif

I ordered the complete coupler assembly yesterday. On my last car the coupler wouldn't come apart in a ten ton press. I'm not taking any chances this time.;)

On some couplers the pin comes right out on others the pin is what I call "resistant to change". :D

This bushing should not be tight on the pin. I've replaced 2 or 3 of these myself and been around when others have replaced them. Two I've done required removal of some bushing material. If your bushings are too tight, remove material from the outside of the bushing. Leave the nice smooth surface that contancts the pin alone.
-Chris

How about realigning the bushing on the shifter shaft? I have found that part to be the worst, I've read the Haynes and Porsche manuals and still have trouble with this (easy) part of the process.

Any pointers? Last time I managedto get it into a great position I'd hate to lose!

ErVikingo
As far as adjusting the shifter. I put my transmission into first gear before i started the project and simply pushed the shifter over into the first gear postion and tightend the bolt that clamps onto the coupler shaft when i was done. There is a hex bolt on the shifter that you can tighten up to hold your shift lever in place if you have to do this by yourself.

bigchillcar,
I did the ball cup and slider bushing about a month ago...all i did on this project was the coupler bushings. I was hoping I wasnt the only one that had a problem with that round shifter bushing. I heard you can put it in the freezer overnight to shrink it a bit.

Thanks Kemo

I used the sockets and vice method and it worked great. About 30 minutes for the total job. If looks to me like the blow from a hammer could break the alloy. I have also taken the coupler loose 7-8 times (always forget to mark it!) and I find that with a little trial and error it works well - like when I can hardly get a gear ... I adjust the linkage so I have more travel in that direction. Also remember that it works backwards - forward for the knob is backwards for the coupler. The adjustment is more critical on the side to side movement (1-3-5)that the forward and back (2-3 or 4-5). Mine is a 901 by the way.

My round shifter bushing was a tight fit but no refrigeration needed.

Pity you poor 915 owners, my 87 took only an hour to pull the console, shifter, replace the cup bushing and rear colar bushing,
remove, polish and regrease and reinstall the cross shafts, reseat the rubber orings and button up. all with the help of only four Fosters ( it was hot out).

keith

Now you did it!
 

All this talk of beer and shifter rebuilds forced me into buying the shift bushing kit and SWEPCO tonight.

Guess all I need now is a cool 6 pack and the job will be done.


Gordo