SC CIS to CARB...Does this go?
 

Can I remove all of the lambda parts and wiring or does this speed sensor thing need to stay?

Thanks

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It can go. Stash/sell it though.

It's the Lambda "brain".

Bob - Do you remove all the parts? Relay too?

The relay relates to the frequency valve which plays a part in controlling fuel pressure with CIS installed.

You need oil pressure and oil temperature working on the dash. I do not believe any of that runs through the lambda harness.

There's a temp sensor or two that feeds the lambda box but I am pretty sure they are of no value now and do not relate to the primary oil temp/pressure sensors. However, I am not sure of wiring on the primary temperature switch.

There's a throttle switch(s) that will be removed with the CIS that feeds the box as well.

Remove it all.
Nothing essential runs to it. All engine gauges will function normally.

timmy knows way more than me on this stuff. Purge.

I removed everything in that picture including the wiring harness when i switched to carbs from cis.

don't cut it out, save the wiring harness and box. they will be worth more than the carbs in the future

I'm taking the whole car apart to do some rust repair and a complete repaint...trying to save all the little bits that come off.

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good, nice to see that serpa brown go away. minerva blue perhaps? (code 304)

There is a wire or two which go forward and connect to the tach, and to a relay looking thing over back behind the fuel gauge which operate the rev limiter.

You might have to do minor rewiring so the regular fuel relay up on the fuse box works for you, although I think that the stock rev limiter works by closing a circuit to the regular relay, and if so having that circuit open shouldn't hurt anything.

If you want a rev limiter, buy the rotor which has the mechanical limiter on it (Euro SCs). They come in several limit speeds. I'd suggest 7,000 if you can find one or if they are made at that speed. But they are easy to adjust - just bend the tab which holds the fixed end of the spring out to increase the limit, and in to decrease it.

Any wire to the fuel pump cut out works by grounding. Leave the brown red wire taped off if you have that circuitry to disconnect and you'll be good to go.
Don't know what year you have?

Also, since the fuel pump cut off is gone you will want to consider adding an inertia switch that will kill the pump in an accident.

Ah, yes.
Unless the engine is running, on a stock CIS the fuel pump will only run with the key in the start position, so if the engine stalls for some reason, the fuel pump won't keep going.

I'm not quite sure how much help that is if you are in an accident. If it leaves you upside down, chances are gravity will pull the round air flow measuring place down (toward the roof), which will open the micro switch and "unground" the wire to the fuel pump relay. I

guess if you are unconscious and the car is upright it is going to stall most likely and the pump will turn off, though that really only matters if a fuel line is ruptured somewhere, doesn't it? With the air flow assembly down (toward the engine, because no air is flowing) no fuel should be coming out of the injectors anyway. The 1973.5s and 1974s didn't have this fuel pump interlock feature, did they? Carbureted cars never did.

Inertia switches are pretty much a racing feature. You can do pretty much the same thing with a very low pressure oil pressure switch - engine stops, no oil pressure, the fuel pump cuts off.

I'm installing a twin plug (JB) 3.0 on PMO's and MSD. I'll be setting the rev limit @ 7500 revs on the MSD. As for the color, I kinda like the rosewood.

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I'm a designer by trade and happen to love all the ****e colors but all the bright ones never worked for me. Olive and cashmere on the other hand...

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