Heater Levers

[lucifer572]

'86 Carerra Coupe

My Carerra has the 10 speed auto heat. I'll be replacing the heater control cables and guide tubes. I'm interested in installing the manual heater control knobs to the current setup with the manual heater control cables. Is it possible to attach the old school control knobs to e-brake hardware with the auto heat components in place?

Also, in looking at the parts diagrams when attempting to order the parts there are two separate setups. Which one should I be looking at buying?

As a side question, the rubber sweeps at the bottom of the glass on the doors, which ones do I buy? I cannot tell which ones from the PET match the pelican options.

[javadog]

You can't have manual heater controls and and auto heat controller at the same time. There are auto heat controllers that have a lever, but it's not designed to be used manually while the auto heat controller is functional. The manual controls have friction discs that hold the lever(s) in the position you put them, the auto heat setup lacks these. Auto heat uses one cable that operates both flapper boxes at the same time. There's more than one manual setup, you could have either one or two cables there.

For the window rubber, find what part number you want in PET and search pelican using that number.

[panzerfaust]

i had the same questions for converting 84 M491...

84 M491 Turbolook to 70 Long Hood Hotrod

[lucifer572]

The PET has the '86 setup but there's so many variations from other cars that apparently fit and the pelican options are too confusing. Hope we get some responses.

[javadog]

Originally Posted by lucifer572

Hope we get some responses.

You got one. Go back and read it. Hint, it's the first one under your post.

I've owned 4 cars, from several different eras, that had different versions of auto heat. I've owned umpteen cars with manual heat; one lever, two levers, etc. I've converted auto heat cars to manual heat. I've studied every combination of heater control levers used in the 911, in order to understand what parts were available, when I wanted to create something custom.

You can't have both auto heat and manual levers. It's one, or the other.

JR

[lucifer572]

Well I totally missed that response. Damn you Tenessee Honey whiskey!!!! Thanks for the response. Is there the option of disconnecting the auto heat motor and using levers with the dual cables? Are there holes in the e-brake unit to put in the levers?

[javadog]

If you are going to do that, remove the auto heat controller completely and replace it with a manual set-up. The easiest way to do it is buy a used handbrake assembly and a pair of new cables. As I said before, there were several different versions using one cable, using two cables, etc. Pick what you want and change it. You can either keep the controller for future use or sell it and the other auto heat components for some decent cash, if it is in working order.

Personally, I prefer dual levers so I can adjust the heat differently from one side to the other, so that's what I built for myself this last time.

JR

[vick]

I'm gathering parts to do this on my SC - auto heat controller is inop, looking forward to the simplicity of levers and cables. Picked up the handbrake assembly on ebay, now I'll dig into the PET to find the rest of the hardware to install it.

[lucifer572]

Gentlemen, toast! Thanks for the info.

[KiwiJohn]

If you want the rear blower (engine compartment) fan to operate, you will need to provide a switch for this.
I am doing a similar conversion on my 78SC. I have auto heat with a single lever override.
The switch for the rear blower is triggered by the autoheat servo linkage. With the autoheat inoperable the blower will not operate.
I have identified the wires in the autoheat going to the rear blower relay, my plan is to connect these to the rotary 10 speed switch and turn it on via that while retaining an original look. This relies on the rotary switch being suitable of course, and not a rheostat switch, which would require a new on/off rotary switch in place of it.
I do not have footwell blowers which are triggered by the rear blower relay on cars that do have them using a different relay which is current sensitive I think.

[panzerfaust]

Originally Posted by javadog

If you are going to do that, remove the auto heat controller completely and replace it with a manual set-up. The easiest way to do it is buy a used handbrake assembly and a pair of new cables. As I said before, there were several different versions using one cable, using two cables, etc. Pick what you want and change it. You can either keep the controller for future use or sell it and the other auto heat components for some decent cash, if it is in working order.

Personally, I prefer dual levers so I can adjust the heat differently from one side to the other, so that's what I built for myself this last time.

JR

so if i did pick up a handbrake/lever/cable and replace the autoheat rotary box, do i need to do something to the dash boards controls also?

[javadog]

No, the two things have nothing do do with one another. The heater control on the dash just directs where the heated air goes.

JR

[vick]

Originally Posted by KiwiJohn

If you want the rear blower (engine compartment) fan to operate, you will need to provide a switch for this.

I am doing a similar conversion on my 78SC. I have auto heat with a single lever override.

The switch for the rear blower is triggered by the autoheat servo linkage. With the autoheat inoperable the blower will not operate.

I have identified the wires in the autoheat going to the rear blower relay, my plan is to connect these to the rotary 10 speed switch and turn it on via that while retaining an original look. This relies on the rotary switch being suitable of course, and not a rheostat switch, which would require a new on/off rotary switch in place of it.

I do not have footwell blowers which are triggered by the rear blower relay on cars that do have them using a different relay which is current sensitive I think.

Have you thought about backdating the heat? I just did it on my '78, very easy to do once you have the two heat sockets. Would seem a simpler alternative to messing around with trying to rewire the 10 position switch. Heated air supply to the cabin is more than ample with just the pressure provided by the alternator/engine fan.