Parts list for comprehensive vacuum leak fix (1982 911SC)

[wiggle_puppy]

Hi all,

I'm planning to replace everything that could cause a vacuum leak on my 911SC. The car is relatively new to me with no known maintenance history. I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oil, and performed a valve adjustment about a week ago. This made the car run MUCH better but the warm idle is still ridiculously high (2000 RPM or so). Otherwise the car runs pretty well.

I don't have CIS gauges and I haven't had anyone touch the mixture. Given the condition of the plug wires that I removed and the general hackiness of the engine bay, I figure that I should address the vacuum system first because it's been neglected.

Several of my injectors are wiggly so that is definitely a problem. My parts list includes:

• Intake manifold gasket
• Intake manifold rubber boots
• All vacuum lines
• Injector seals and tubes (don't really know the correct term)

Is there anything obvious that I'm missing? I'll remove the entire fuel system and test the airbox too (I have a popoff valve).

After that, I'll get my pressures checked.

On a somewhat related note, one of the vacuum hoses from my distributor is capped off and not connected. It's the one nearer the fan shroud (that's the vacuum retard right?) Is that common? The O2 sensor was removed (no idea why) so I figure that there is some "custom" stuff in there that I'm going to have to deal with.

[tirwin]

Really good call to attack these potential problems.

Some additional thoughts.

- At some point you are going to need CIS gauges to validate your fuel pressures. It is worth the investment for long-term ownership.

- You also need a way to validate your AFR. Short term you can get close with the dwell method. I prefer a wideband sensor and that is personal preference. Two ways you could do this. One is a temporary wideband O2 sensor plugged into the normal O2 sensor bung. You install while dialing in the AFR and then go back to the normal narrowband O2 sensor. The other way is a permanent wideband sensor install with cockpit gauge and data logging so you can see long term trends. Not much price difference between the two options -- permanent install involves more labor.

- When I fixed my vac leaks I saw a noticeable change in AFR. Just be aware that you're playing whack-a-mole with AFR, idle, and timing. As you start to change one thing it affects the others so it is not uncommon to have to keep making changes until you get it all balanced out.

- Didn't see you mention validating timing.

- Leaving the idle retard to the dizzy plugged is generally fine but depends on whether you have to pass emissions or not where you live. All that retard vac line does is retard timing to make the combustion burn a little hotter at idle to reduce hydrocarbon output at idle.

- Good idea to thoroughly check your airbox for hairline cracks.

- There are several methods (reversed shop vac, unlit propane, etc.) to test for vac leaks. Lots of info posted about this.

- If you have the motor out, you can really see all the potential places for vac leaks on the back side of the airbox. Check all the clamps and fittings for tightness.

That's all I can think of right now. Hope this helps.

[wiggle_puppy]

Thanks for the advice!

I don't have an oxygen sensor or any of the wiring/controls right now. A wideband is definitely on my list and I'll shoot for the permanent install (this should be easy since the car basically has no interior).

I have not validated the timing yet. I figure I'll get the vacuum leaks sorted then try my luck with the timing and the mixture. EFI is in the future but I'd like to enjoy to car with CIS for a while without being embarrassed by my 2000 RPM idle at stop lights

[gazzerr]

Hey here was my list for my '82 911 SC when I did this same job. Apologies only have part numbers for some of it.

900 025 007 02 8,4 washer x 12 - intake runner washers

small vacuum hose x 3

throttle body o-ring 999.701.124.40

91111091803 support bracket for throttle body mine was bent

injector seat o-ring 999-701-446-40-M17 X 6

injector seat seat x 2 911-110-886-03-M260 X 6

breather hose oil tank to air filter 930-107-399-00-M100

breather hose oil tank to engine breather 930 107 394 10 —> 930 110 267 04 —> 930 107 394 09

throttle bell crank bushings (bronze) 901-423-253-00-M260

sensor plate mixture unit gasket 911-110-394-02-OEM

999 701 395 50 o-ring - this might have been the csv o-ring - comes with airbox if you buy a new one

911 110 264 00 cold start flange - comes with airbox if you buy a new one

999 701 210 40 o-ring - this might have been the flange o-ring - comes with airbox also

air box mounts X 2 you need these the ones you have will be shot and the whole unit sags and rubs on top of the engine

Fuel distributor sealing rings X 12 (get a handful of these)

WUR sealing rings

Rubber tubes for intake pipes to airbox.

Also get you another oil pressure switch and replace it while you are in there.

I ended up just buying a new airbox.