Suspension Pan Replacement?

jasonborkowski · 12-30-2002, 03:36 PM

"I never should have taken the paint off".

I just wanted to have a nicely painted car; really! But after removing that damn meretricious mask of paint and bondo, I found that I am in DEEP! So I took the WHOLE car apart!

Ok,

What is the best way to remove, and install a new suspension pan? Anyone?

Then, with the new one in, what is the best under-coating to use, so my 70 911E Targa will be around for ne next 30 years?

Would it be a stupid idea to powder-coat all of the under suspension components?

Paul Thomas · 12-30-2002, 04:04 PM

Jason,
There is actually a great article on this in the December, 2000 issue of European Car. I would imagine you could order a copy from them. Even if you dont do the pan yourself, it has good pics and shows that you could remove the old pan yourself, and have a pro weld in the new one. As far as undercoating, i would use 3m rubberized undercoating, the purists will says use something from Wurth but 3m is usually more readily available. I had my whole suspension apart a few years ago and am regreting not powder coating the A-arms.

Cheers,
Paul

rfuerst911sc · 12-30-2002, 04:41 PM

Jason I did this repair once on a 1974-911S Targa that I owned,I am a average shadetree mechanic with average welding skills.I purchased the new pan,jacked the car in the air and put on jack stands,unbolted the front bottom a-arm mount on both sides,this allowed me to slide the new pan on and hold it in place while I traced out the outline,I then slowly cut out along this line with a air rotary cut off wheel,a very messy job but its not too bad,once the old pan is cut out you have to do a little more trimmong and filing and then the new pan will fit,start tack welding all around the pan,once fully tacked you go ahead and weld it in,I used undercoat that was available at the local parts stores.I have since sold the car but I know the guy that bought it and it has been about 5 years and its still solid with no rust.

redducati750 · 12-30-2002, 04:48 PM

i need to do this also and was hopeing to do it myself. im am somewhat afraid however.

dhoward · dhoward's Garage

I just did the suspension pan and front and rear floor pans on my 69T. I drilled out all of the spot welds along the crimps (buy a couple of spot-weld drills from the local auto body supply) and split them with an air chisel. It's not a bad job, just dirty and tedious at times.
If you're using a wire-feed welder, don't use flux-cored wire. Get a tank of 25% Ar/ 75% CO2. Welds very clean and easy.

TimT · 12-30-2002, 05:13 PM

BTDT on 2 911's... I love the early cars.. the first one I had I did a suspension repair/pan replacement. I balled that car up before we had the luxury of digital cameras and the internet..

If you look here you will see some of the things I have done to resurrect a '69T, and make it into a GT-5 racecar. On this car I replaced the front pan, the rear torsion tube supports, the door and fender supports.

I cut the roof off and replaced it with a glass skin... (lowering the CG and losing an easy 40 lbs)

Its important to leave yourself reference marks, do alot of measuring and make sketches or take pics before you start

Measure twice, and cut once

greenmonster · 12-30-2002, 06:31 PM

Dave has a nice page on the pan resto on his 912 here:

http://www.hillmanimages.com/912/front_pan.html

Back to lurking...

dtw · 12-30-2002, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by redducati750
i need to do this also and was hopeing to do it myself. im am somewhat afraid however.

Hey man have you checked out the new '72T I bought? It needs a new pan. The new pans are sitting in my garage. We're going to put it in soon, weekend after next I think. You in? Just bring beer...

65-911 · 12-31-2002, 04:34 AM

Dave,
Which weekend are you planning on replacing the pan, I might be see if I can drop past, I am currently working on replacing a rocker panel, and it would be nice to see an expert at work.

Thanks
Bruce

jpnovak · 12-31-2002, 05:55 AM

Dave,

I guess this gives an agenda to the weekend of my arrival. What kind of beer will be drinking? I guess I need to bring both welders. better get busy cleaning up that nose and removing all the necessary parts to get at the pan. BTW, can you turn the tub around to face the garage. it will be better access to power for the welder.

They have had enigne swap, rebuild, suspension parties, however, This may be the first Pelican meeting for sheet metal repair. Come one, come all this may be the unofficial invite until Dave OK's the party.

dhoward · dhoward's Garage

OH, OH, OH!!!
Just thoght of this, although you may have already. Make sure you have several pairs of vise-grips or c-clamps for fitting. The new pans dimensions won't fit exactly to your old tub, and you will have to bend and trim. Some sheet metal screws through the crimp seams work well. Before you turn on the welder, check the alignment of the a-arm front mount points. It's a b!tch to correct later.

rickeolis · 12-31-2002, 07:30 AM

I just got in my new pan and header from Pelican, and in a couple weeks plan to tackle the job. I have already cut out most of the rusted out pan, and need to figure out the best position to install the new one to tack into place. From there, weld the seams-
It seems that all 69's need this!

johnco · 12-31-2002, 12:34 PM

just finished my front pan replacement yesterday and got everything back together. after several weeks of sitting, everything is done and then it starts raining. took it for a short ride anyway, seems like everything is back like it's supposed to be

john walker's workshop · 12-31-2002, 01:15 PM

before fitting in the pan, look closely at the area that the front of the A/arms bolt to. there are several providers of these pans, and they are not all created equal. some only have a couple of spot welds holding on that mounting area, and need to be more solidly welded. i've seen several come apart after installation.

dtw · 12-31-2002, 03:11 PM

OK, I guess I'm committed now! Sure, whoever wants to come can come to the "party". I'll leave it to jpnovak to determine the date. I think he has the weekend of the 11th in mind. I have no idea when the heck I'm gonna prep the pan before then, but we'll see...

Bruce, I wish I had an expert for you to watch. But Jamie will be there! (hehehehe sorry Jamie it was too easy).

Jamie, I lied to you. Didn't work on the pan. Today I worked on getting the Jetta running so it can be out of our way when you come. I timed it right, it fires right up and runs for a few seconds then resolutely dies. No idea why. I installed a new timing belt tensioner and new belts today too. Hopefully it'll be done tomorrow. Another question- can you weld OK outdoors? Light??

dtw · 12-31-2002, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
before fitting in the pan, look closely at the area that the front of the A/arms bolt to. there are several providers of these pans, and they are not all created equal. some only have a couple of spot welds holding on that mounting area, and need to be more solidly welded. i've seen several come apart after installation.

jpnovak and I looked at pans from Restoration Design and "those other guys". The pickups on the RD pans were beefier and had about three times as many welds. Good stuff!