3.2 Carrera Fuel Line Connection near rear torsion bar

[strictly]

I thought i would ask the question before i dive in as ive got other jobs to do

The fuel connections in this picture - which of the two is the one designed to turn - the hard metal line connection on the left (i dont think so), or the metal fitting attached to the black plastic lines on the right (think so)?

I think its the metal fittings attached to THE plastic line. Now they dont look like they are designed to swivel within the plastic line - so do i need to disconnect these near the fuel tank first, so that i can turn the fitting which then turns the whole line in the tunnel, but without breaking something or is there another mid point connection, like near the gear coupling?

[bkreigsr]

Why can't you get a wrench on the fitting on tunnel lines?
Then, orient the hard lines to where you need them while tightening the threaded collar?
Or.... does you question have more to do with which is the supply line and which is the return?
Bill K

[NY65912]

Kinda obvious that the hard lines have nut and the plastic lines have a male fitting on them. The hard lines turn off counterclockwise, make sure you hold back on the plastic lines with the appropriate wrench.

[strictly]

Originally Posted by NY65912

Kinda obvious that the hard lines have nut and the plastic lines have a male fitting on them. The hard lines turn off counterclockwise, make sure you hold back on the plastic lines with the appropriate wrench.

i probally should have mentinoned this isnt my exact car, my lines are preety rusty, just and example of the line - ah so the metal one is the one that is supposed to turn, okay thats what i needed to know. The whole thing is welded together with rust, and surprise suprise the metal nut it not turning, i can only turn the male fitting, which is turning the plastic line.

So i need to soak the metal line some more, or disconnect the plastic line at the fuel tank end, and turn the whole line so not to twist it if necessary to seprate them

[strictly]

Originally Posted by NY65912

Kinda obvious that the hard lines have nut and the plastic lines have a male fitting on them. The hard lines turn off counterclockwise, make sure you hold back on the plastic lines with the appropriate wrench.

no i can work out inlet and return, i was more trying to figure out exactly which of the two needs to turn, as mine is welded to gether with rust (the picture is not my exact car), and the big nut does not move, just the male fitting, with the whole plastic line turning with it.

ok so the big nut, is basically a flare style fitting, and designed to turn. I will soak it some more with pentrating oil, and see what i can do. I didnt want to push it and f**k it up, quicker to ask, when there are other jobs to do!

[78-911SC]

Like Bill said. Unless the nut is fixed to the hardline you should be able to loosen the nut and orientate the hardline to your liking and retighten the nut. Let us know the solution.

[strictly]

Originally Posted by 78-911SC

Like Bill said. Unless the nut is fixed to the hardline you should be able to loosen the nut and orientate the hardline to your liking and retighten the nut. Let us know the solution.

excellent further confirmation that the metal one is the flare/designed to turn, mine is very rusty so difficult to tell, i'll work on it now that know!

[BoxsterGT]

Your original Polyamide tunnel lines have permanent fittings, and must not turn.

The Female Fittings on the Green Hardlines are the ones meant to turn, but time and conditions (rust) may have made them fixed as well.

So you may have to cut the hardline so they can be taken apart. If this is necessary, I can provide replacements in E-85 rubber hose or provide flare fittings to connect a short length of hardline to take up the part removed.

Be aware that the original Polyamide tunnel lines are permanent to the front hoses, and when they (the rubber hoses) fail you must replace the hose/line assembly.



The tunnel lines I offer have M14 Male fittings at each end to allow replacement if ever needed in the future.



I have matching E-85 rated rubber hoses in either plain rubber or braided SS.



For additional information please email me only, NO PM's........., please.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

[strictly]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

Your original Polyamide tunnel lines have permanent fittings, and must not turn.

The Female Fittings on the Green Hardlines are the ones meant to turn, but time and conditions (rust) may have made them fixed as well.

So you may have to cut the hardline so they can be taken apart. If this is necessary, I can provide replacements in E-85 rubber hose or provide flare fittings to connect a short length of hardline to take up the part removed.

Be aware that the original Polyamide tunnel lines are permanent to the front hoses, and when they (the rubber hoses) fail you must replace the hose/line assembly.

The tunnel lines I offer have M14 Male fittings at each end to allow replacement if ever needed in the future.

I have matching E-85 rated rubber hoses in either plain rubber or braided SS.


For additional information please email me only, NO PM's........., please.

Len at Autosportengineering dot com

Hi Len, ah very intresting, those are some good products, and good to know. Thanks for the steer, thats also given me the bigger picture, i'll see how i get on, and i need to replace those tunnel line (or whatever) then i'll take you up

thanks

Luke

[bkreigsr]

Luke, do your self a favor and buy new lines from Len. Sometimes the most time consuming way is also the easiest.
BTDT, under the car, on my back, with a half dozen wrenches, Kroil, and a Dremel, and a 93 octane facial for good measure.
You said it yourself "the whole thing is welded together" ugh.
Bill K