CV joint trauma...tips needed
 

Well, I decided to pull my halfshaft out of my 70 S today to switch the outside CV joint because it had a split boot and I think it is the source of the clunking from my rear end. Anyway, the CV's are seized extremly tight on the splines of the shaft (yes I took the circlips off):rolleyes: Has anyone ever run into this? To get the suspect joint off I had to bust the cage off of it and then use my wiz-wheel to cut the inner race off of the splines. The inside joint is acting the same way and I dont want to destroy it if possible. I really dont want to replace the whole unit for $350. Suggestions? Uggghhhh, I cant belive these joints are $130!!!

I would think that you could take the joint apart then put a 2 jaw puller on the inner part and pull it off.

I've typically removed CV joints by opening the jaws of my vise just a little wider than the shaft. Slip the shaft in there and let the inner race of the CV joint rest on the top of the vise. then I use a soft hammer to pound the shaft down, through the joint. Catch it when it falls. Do not use a steel hammer, unless you like filing splines until the're not messed up anymore.

Superman,
That is the process I was using. Unfortunatly they are far too seized for that to work. These suckers are practically welded to the splines. I will probably have to find a press to have the shaft pressed out.

May not apply. But I have both engines out of my 914's. On my project 914 ( 901 gearbox ). The CV joint is so worn out. That it is slamming against the output flange, dinging it up. While doing this. It bangs up the end of the shaft, not allowing it to come off.
So we needed to clean up the splines with a triangle file. To allow the cage to slide off.

I had a similar problem w/ one of my CV joints recently (while the other came off the spline quite easily using Superman's "vice technique"). After soaking the spline w/ penetrating oil every day & also giving it several whacks, I still had made no progress (and even bent the tip of an hardened impact chisel) after a week of trying. I then took the half-axle shaft to a garage, and using their 30 ton press, the axle slid off the CV joint so easily that I could not believe I had 'fought it' for so long (and they didn't charge me a cent either)! In hindsight, I could probably have rigged up something using 2x4s and a hydraulic jack to accomplish the same thing (if I had just thought about it at the time...). Hope this helps...bottom line - press it out!

Press seems the way to go, but if you want to give it one more shot try the penetrating oil AND a torch.

I used the heat method with good results. If you can find someone who has an Arbor Press, that is a good way to go as well.

Cheers, James

Thanks guys, to the press I go!!!

Sure you got the locking ring off? I mean, i can't imagine that being so hard to remove..they just aren't that hard to remove. you remove the entire shaft, take over to a to workbench, and tap them off...?

Im not even going to honor that with a response!;)

I'm with Kurt. ( Don't want to start a flameing post ). I've done VW/Porsche half shafts probably 10 times. I've never seen them rusted or frozen. What causes it ? Torn boot ? Water mixed with CV grease ?
If one side is frozen to the shaft. I'd throw them both away. The one that is frozen is going to have odd torques put on it, because it couldn't move. The other was getting slammed doing all the extensions by itself.
My .02c. If one of those was to let go. You'd have a expensive mess.

First of all, I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas! I have to respectfully disagree with Kurt & Cary on this one. On my '88 with less than 50K miles, one of my outer CV boots had a slight tear in it, and in order to replace it, I had to remove the inner CV joint & boot (which were in perfect condition) also. This inner joint's race tapped off the spline with absolute minimal effort and nothing could have been easier. Although both of these inner & outer joints appeared to be in perfect condition (before repacking them w/ grease), I decided replace the CV boots on the other half-axle also due to their age (figuring that if one boot had split, the others wouldn't be too far behind). This 'good' half-axle was the one that gave me a fit! I believe the manual says to 'press it off' for a reason...you might do 99 in a row with no problem, but the 100th one may be a 'royal b!tch' to remove thus requiring the 'proper' tool. I my case, once the inner race was pressed off, both CV joints, splines, etc. appeared to be 'as good as new', and I wouldn't have even thought about replacing them. I'm not sure what Cary is referring to, but in my case, neither of the inner joints had any 'movement' whatsoever on the spline so I don't understand what he's referring to insofar as 'odd torque values' go. Have I missed something here (...since I'm still learning as I go)?

The spline part of the joint doesn't move on the shaft when the susp. goes up and down. That is the balls job. That is where the movement is supposed to take place.

I had the same dilema...went to European Auto Salvage Yard (EASY), picked up a pair of half axles for $35 a piece...done!

Cheers,

Joe

IMHO, you seem to be doing a lot of work and there comes a point where if you don't have the right tools or the time, it's just not worth the hassle -- buy the axle (repacking the joint makes a huge mess anyway).

Make a habit of going to Porsche swap meets and be on the lookout for parts that tend to wear out.

You guys in Cal. must be spoiled with the availability of used p-car parts! Just kidding, but seriously, you would replace a half-axle just because a CV boot split? Also, I would NOT be comfortable buying a used half-axle (unless I knew it's history)...I want to KNOW that the CV joints are in good condition, and unless you examine them (which defeats the hassle-free part), how would you know? But you're right, it is a MESSY job, but if I can do it, anyone can!