Pelican Parts Forums - Suspension advice for R comps?

Pelican Parts Forums (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/)

- Porsche 911 Technical Forum (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/)

- - Suspension advice for R comps? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/917930-suspension-advice-r-comps.html)

Yes if I was buying new I would get the RSR - I like the low key look also. Kind of surprised they are more expensive than the alloy wonder bars?

I will throw out one more thing on the Poly/Monoball thing.

On a street/track car I like poly/monoball because friction is reduced. You are running much stiffer and lower than stock with less suspension travel. So the travel that you do have you want to be very free. I really loved how they improved the ride on the street. Lots of variables on my car, maybe something else was binding, the rubber was way worn out so not apples to oranges but I felt an improvement and got to install shiny parts. I did not notice any change in NVH, car was stiff and loud before and after but the suspension reaction was smoother and more planted. I think it also forces more of the damping through the shocks where it can be more carefully controlled?

You need to go with the sways at one point anyway so why not now.
Steve W supplied me with 23mm Smart Racing Sway bars and I never looked back.
You already have the WEVO and that is a big expense.

Quote:

interesting comment from Steve Weiner

IMHO Steve is the MAN when it comes to air cooled 911.

he provided a lot of info and some parts for my 85 911 when upgrading for DE years ago. decided to retire it and revert to stock for pleasure driving, and now track a 944 turbo until my 930 is done.

on the 85 911, I turned down the koni adjustable shocks and put street tires on the original 16" fuchs, and that took a lot of the harshness out. still very firm, but I have not lost any fillings lately.

I am about to ship him all my engine parts for machine/rebuild work on my 930 project, case, heads, rods, rocker, etc etc. we have concluded I will be getting a new, full set of pistons/cyls as my current compression ring is at the clearance limit on a couple. Steve suggested I get the later version with added cooling fins.

he is my primary architect on this build. next discussion will be suspension.:eek:

he already has my 930 4sp tranny for rebuild, re-gear, LSD and shorten bell housing. my '930' is a clone built on a SC tub and the PO left the 915.

good luck on your quest for the perfect car...:D

Quote:

Originally Posted by gliding_serpent (Post 9159433)

interesting comment from Steve Weiner on sway bars... (his site has a good suspension primer)

"Using the swaybars as part of the overall suspension system is necessary for chassis balance. There are several opinions on this, but we feel that the vehicles’ springs should carry the majority of the desired roll stiffness, not the anti-roll bars. These should be used as tuning tools to adjust the understeer/oversteer balance of the car, not as primary roll stiffness components."

confirms an earlier suggestion to verify my torsion bars (plan is to verify easier to id fronts... because if they are as stated, rears probably ok also)

I agree with this logic. Get the springs/torsion bars right for your car weight and chosen tire compound first, and fine tune with adjustable sways. I have been in cars with soft springs and too much sway to compensate and the car feels a lot less precise. Everything is interrelated and I can be found chasing my tail often when left to my own devices. :D

A really experienced suspension guy can take a few laps and understand exactly what the car needs. I like to yoke their strength and surround myself with people smarter than me when doing suspension setup.

Onto the torsion bars. I am starting to smell a rat.

Here is the Pelican advert for my car:

"platinum metallic/brown, strong 3.2, shifts smooth, great clutch, excellent shape, 16" Fuchs w/fresh Toyota RA1's, H4's
within last 6k- valve adjust, K&N Filter, Bursch Exhaust w/Test Pipe, Steve Wong Performance Chip,Swepco 210 Gear Oil,OEM Short Shift, Smart Racing Shift Coupler, New Drive Axles, 30mm Rear and 23 mm Front Torsion Bars, Turbo Tie Rods, 4 Wheel Alignment & Corner Balance, Lowered w/ Steering Rack Spacer to correct Steering Geometry, New Bilstein Sport Shocks all around, New Front Urethane Bushings, Rebuilt all 4 Calipers, Fresh ATE Blue Fluid, SS DOT Brake Lines, Pagid O range Pads
Handles likeaDream."

The 3.2 had a broken head stud and pitted cams. Clutch was ok but at end of useable life on inspection. Shifter was so out of synch that it was hard not to catch reverse shifting down to 4th. IT was so poorly aligned that the block out tab could not engage. Needed synchros for 2 and 4 soon, "fresh" RA1's were basically bald, he did his own valve adjust (remember, broken head stud), the reminder was about right. We are now questioning the torsion bars, but I will not jump on that. New bilstein sport shocks all round... well the rears looked new. the fronts were a bad repaint from green. There were only SS front brake lines. And it was a repaint frame damaged car, and the seller played dumb on the overspray.

So lets just say that I would not be surprised if my front shocks, and torsion bars were not as advertised. But who knows. I will find out.

on the topic of shocks... check this out.
front
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0qztzgfg.jpg

Bilstein?
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...pslgw6rtpb.jpg

note the green under the chips. HD's are green, as are some front sports I understand.
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...pswfvxkorc.jpg

http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1o8t5phh.jpg

rears looking more legit. Wonder what that number means? just a production number? Any way to id sport shocks visually?
http://i1168.photobucket.com/albums/...psxmd8pdxl.jpg

Need to verify the front torsion bars when I have the time. If they are legit, I am more willing to believe the rears are as advertised also. Mind you, much of my car was not "as advertised", so all bets are off.

If you are using the "through body" sway bars on the front, you should be sure to weld a backing plate to the body where the bar goes through. Also, on the rear make sure to weld in the beefed up sway bar mounts.