How To Sell a 3.6 Engine?
 

I am going to sell a 3.6 M64-01 engine. The engine has not run in long time. I want to sell it correctly, with proper representation. My plan is to do a dyno/leak down test, but what else can I do? I have no interest in misleading any purchaser, as this was a race car engine.

The following is the engines history;

- The engine has sat for a long time. It is my hope to have the dyno and leak down numbers completed in a few weeks.

- Engine was in a race car. It was raced by Gary Griffiths in the One Lap of America. in 1997 and 1998, he changed to a 3.3 turbo in the following years. I purchased it as a long block from him.

- He bought the engine originally with +/- 25,000 miles on it. He rebuilt it and ran it for +/- 5000 kms with a TMW throttle body kit and Electromotive Tec 1 EMS.

- The engine was then destined for turbo charging and 500HP, it was then pulled apart again and strengthened the lower end with Raceware fasteners to take the extra load, cleaned up the webs to improve flow within the case and assembled with turbo pistons and cams. Gary removed the turbo P's and C's and reinstalled the original P's and C's. Engine has not been run since.

The following is the present build;

- 5000 km’s on all new bearings, rings, guides, seals, 3-angle valve seats and slightly polished intakes and exhaust ports.
- Raceware rod bolts and head studs
- Patrick 3.6 DME to 915 lightweight flywheel
- 964 Group “B” Camshafts
- stock 964 M64-01 piston and cylinders, with new rings
- Direct ignition Electromotive trigger wheel installed
- 993 exhaust headers (no cats or mufflers)
- 964 throttle body
- 993 Plastic intake
- 993 injectors
- 964 ECU with Steve Wong Chip

Thanks for any help!

If you want to dyno it you're going to have to get it running at the very least.

If I were a buyer, I would either want it apart to verify that the parts listed are present and serviceable, or running with test reports to verify the condition and output.

That is the main reason I have asked this question. I want to know if I really need to have the cams checked and the connecting rod bolts. Perhaps it is worth doing, as these engines have become valuable.

Or you would put a cheap price as is and not deal with anything. Hint hint


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am also interested in full disclosure and attempting to provide as much information on the engine as possible to a buyer.

If it were running, you should PM me...

I will be installing it over the next few weeks.

I'm interested in learning more. "installing" it? Or selling it?

Needs to be installed to do a dyno. Installed in my car.

To clarify the above post; yes I will be selling it. I could get a dyno done on a stand, but I do not have one local. They are not very common.

Thanks to all who contributed.

I talked to a local P car race shop. He said that the engine hardware would be easy to identify by the markings on the bolts. As for the cams - I have the overlap measurements. Valve covers could be removed to identify the case bolts. Fairly easy to do. Much more than that may involve tearing the engine down, however I am open to suggestions.

A leak down test is best done when engine is cold, as this provides an honest test vs. having the engine warm.

I will now focus on getting it started and running.