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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Triesch View Post
But Rawknees, people get in my car and say " Wow, your AC cools your cabin down to 86 degrees from 96! That is so original and awesome! " People get into your car and say " Hey, it's freezing in here!!! I bet you tweeked your AC!!"" It's not original! It is much more cool to have horrible AC in our cars. I bet you put on gold wheels next.
Nick, I'm saving the gold wheels for when you visit me - I'll even run the thermostat on "1" for you, too!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by impactbumper View Post
btw my F150 chooses to blow 60F lowest through the vents. Lowest. So Johnny has a point.
Berk, I have a 1990 E350 diesel, box truck that will only blow 55 degrees in mid 90s temps, since I converted to r134 refrigerant a long time ago (got tired of paying for r12) - was colder with r12, and need another condenser inline in order to work better now.

Below 90 it feels great, above 90 and not so great.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 09-03-2016 at 04:45 PM..
Old 09-03-2016, 04:39 PM
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Cars Ruined My Life
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
Nick, I'm saving the gold wheels for when you visit me - I'll even run the thermostat on "1" for you, too!!!




Berk, I have a 1990 E350 diesel, box truck that will only blow 55 degrees in mid 90s temps, since I converted to r134 refrigerant a long time ago (got tired of paying for r12) - was colder with r12, and need another condenser inline in order to work better now.

Below 90 it feels great, above 90 and not so great.


I find myself keeping it automatic at 72 all the time and honestly the amount of time it takes to cool it down is very close to as if i set it at 60. Give or take the humidity. On 100+ days even my newest and greatest American made truck struggles to keep it cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Old 09-03-2016, 04:47 PM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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^^^

Serious thread jacking going on here, BUTT, ImpactHumper, those thermostat setting numbers are based on evaporator intake air, not vent exit temps . . . I bet your vent temps are quite a bit lower than 60 degrees (or have you measured them and found that 60 is the lowest? Apologies for the b-slap if you have! ).
Old 09-03-2016, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
^^^

Serious thread jacking going on here, BUTT, ImpactHumper, those thermostat setting numbers are based on evaporator intake air, not vent exit temps . . . I bet your vent temps are quite a bit lower than 60 degrees (or have you measured them and found that 60 is the lowest? Apologies for the b-slap if you have! ).
imma go measure them to see if i can stick it to you.
Old 09-03-2016, 05:05 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #164 (permalink)
Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impactbumper View Post
imma go measure them to see if i can stick it to you.
Keep dreamin' bub!!! I own you - and I own Nasty Nick, bigtime, wiff his 10 degree cabin temp drop!!!!
Old 09-03-2016, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny H View Post
I haven't even managed to post the other cars' results yet and the daggers are out?

That is because many people are simply fantastic and could design systems that would take us to the first Exo-planet if only they could find 5 minutes....

Keep up the good work....development is always hard.
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Old 09-04-2016, 12:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #166 (permalink)
 
Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vereeken View Post
That is because many people are simply fantastic and could design systems that would take us to the first Exo-planet if only they could find 5 minutes....

Keep up the good work....development is always hard.
Wut?!?! Who in this thread has suggested they could design a better electric a/c system than Jonny is building, my Belgium bro?!?! Don't make me ask Bob Kontak to post up in here!!!
Old 09-04-2016, 12:28 AM
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Ronnie, you illustrated two key points on the previous page.

1. You have put lots of effort into improving the efficiency of your A/C by improving airflow and insulation and we will do the same. Window tint is important and I bet you have that.

2. Your system works really well in Texas with the car at 1000 RPM idle. That proves a point about BTU. Your compressor, I expect is 'rated' 15,000 BTU or even higher but , rather like engines, that number is the maximum BTU which occurs at max RPM.

Typically, engine compressors (e.g. Sanden) put out around 4500 BTU at 1000 RPM. The electric compressor we are using exceeds that figure which is why we have every confidence in our system.
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Old 09-04-2016, 01:04 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #168 (permalink)
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So an automotive AC only needs 3200 BTU and having 6 times that, like in a typical installation, is wasted excess capacity?
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:53 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #169 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick-l View Post
So an automotive AC only needs 3200 BTU and having 6 times that, like in a typical installation, is wasted excess capacity?
I'm not saying it's wasted, but you certainly aren't getting anything like 17,000 BTU in your Subaru at idle. Yes, if you nail it from the get go, it will cool down quicker, but I'd never do that to my Porsche.

Think about it. If a taxi driver in Turkey had to sit in the rank, revving the nuts of his Mercedes just to keep cool, that would be insane wouldn't it?

Manufacturers typically fit the same compressor across thier range due to bulk purchasing savings and ease of spares holding, doesn't matter if it's a tiny city car or a huge minivan. You simply can't make an an assumption about what BTU is needed by looking at another car's compressor rating.

Our cars have tiny cabins compared to new cars. We've estimated that the 911 cabin volume is about a third that of a VW Golf, for example.

Sometimes you have to challenge convention and think for yourself.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:27 AM
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Now that I have seen a picture of Johnny I am beginning to doubt a bit....

Does the system assume AC was installed in the car and does it replace the existing porsche system or is it assumed that no prior AC was in the car?
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:42 AM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Jonny, yes to my having window tint (dark as legally possible). I like how it looks on all cars (fits very will with the "Miami Vice" aura of a Turbo 911, too), and also the added privacy it provides (hookers and blow, dontcha' know!), so would use it even if I didn't care about a/c, but yep, tint makes a huge difference in cabin comfort. I've never measured "before and after" temperature differences, but cars around here that do not have tint are rolling pressure cookers.

Interesting about the output of a crank driven compressor at idle. I don't know anything about how a/c compressors are rated with regard to BTU output, but I do know that when my system was stock, the vent temperatures were miserable in above 90 degree weather (in the range of 60 degrees). The first modification I did was to add the fender condenser w/fan - that brought vent temps down to upper 40s; good, but not sufficient for quick cabin cool down, dealing comfortably with stop and go driving in high heat, and the system had to run on max most of the time (no other mods were made at that time - including nothing with insulation of evap box). The other mods I noted on the previous page, moved the vent temps into the upper 20s range (aka - the macho level!).

The stock compressor has been used throughout the rest of the changes.

I've no way to test this, but I am pretty sure that if my Nippondenso compressor never exceeded the speed that it turns with the engine at 1K RPM, the "real world" performance (stop & go traffic, errand running, highway cruising) in conditions of above 90F air temp would be extremely poor. Not saying this compares to your electric compressor - just a general observation.

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 09-04-2016 at 10:13 AM..
Old 09-04-2016, 09:53 AM
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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vereeken View Post
Now that I have seen a picture of Johnny I am beginning to doubt a bit....
Is he as ugly as Bob K?!?!?!
Old 09-04-2016, 10:09 AM
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Cheers guys!

Here's a typical Sanden compressor rated at 14400 BTU (4.2kW).

The output is around 1.4 kW at 1000 RPM which is 4776 BTU



Some 911 compressors have massive pulleys to gear them down so they actually turn at less than engine speed. Graph shows compressor speed.
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:24 AM
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Is he as ugly as Bob K?!?!?!
Yes so high likelyhood he is going to be banned by the moderator.
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:08 AM
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Cheers guys!



Some 911 compressors have massive pulleys to gear them down so they actually turn at less than engine speed. Graph shows compressor speed.
That is what we do with the alternators in racing Escorts as well. Only problem is that the alternator does give zero output below 2000 rpm.
So I am guessing that the Porsche compressor with an increased diameter pulley does nothing at idle with regard to output....
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:12 AM
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Does the system assume AC was installed in the car and does it replace the existing porsche system or is it assumed that no prior AC was in the car?
Most of the system lives in the 'frunk' and is hidden by the carpet when installed. The condenser replaces the large washer bottle under the fender.

It is easiest to install in a non-A/C car. In A/C car you'd take the old system out first.

I do give a sneak preview of the prototype system in the video at the top of this thread.
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:28 AM
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I took the time to sit through the 8 minutes.

A very small sneak preview ;o)

Aside from the technical mumbojumbo on BTU and other Texan stuff, key is the installation. You need an unobtrusive button to turn on off. The round circle in teh ventilation control panel would be my chocie. What about temp control? Maybe a combined push turn button for on/off temp control?

Is the smuggler box not a valid location for the system?

What happens to the electric load if you turn on headlights and AC at the same time (tunnel, idiots driving in my way)...
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Old 09-04-2016, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Vereeken View Post
I took the time to sit through the 8 minutes.

A very small sneak preview ;o)

Aside from the technical mumbojumbo on BTU and other Texan stuff, key is the installation. You need an unobtrusive button to turn on off. The round circle in teh ventilation control panel would be my chocie. What about temp control? Maybe a combined push turn button for on/off temp control?

Is the smuggler box not a valid location for the system?

What happens to the electric load if you turn on headlights and AC at the same time (tunnel, idiots driving in my way)...


All will be revealed but the A/C will all work from a single button and you will be able to set the temperature. The system is controlled by a bespoke power management system to regulate compressor speed and prevent battery drain. We have just finished the electronic design and are working on the embedded firmware.

Smuggler's box is too small on a RHD vehicle. Compressor placement is optimal for short cable runs to battery and short A/C hose length - less than 4m (13ft).
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Old 09-04-2016, 01:07 PM
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But the best the "electrocompressor" can do is the left edge of the graph.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny H View Post
Cheers guys!

Here's a typical Sanden compressor rated at 14400 BTU (4.2kW).

The output is around 1.4 kW at 1000 RPM which is 4776 BTU



Some 911 compressors have massive pulleys to gear them down so they actually turn at less than engine speed. Graph shows compressor speed.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:04 PM
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