Frustratio: outer rocker removal

[Puma]

I drilled out the welds, I ground down the remnants, and the rocker doesn't budge. Underside is free. I can't figure out what's holding them on. Did/do people sometimes epoxy these things to the inner rocker? I tried some Mapp torch heat to see if it would loosen up but was a little worried I'd warp something.

Any tips?

[mickey356]

Puma, I'm pretty sure they need to be cut out, like at the base of the door openings. If you have replacements hold it up and you'll likely have to cut about 1/2 to 1/4 inch in in order to have some material to sister.... weld the replacement to.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure that's the deal, or at least what I've gathered from looking at pics. Can't speak from experience.

[mickey356]

Complete rocker replacement

[Puma]

Thanks Mickey!

I did search, honest.

The bizarre irony is that my rockers (outer and inner) are not rusty at all, but they left out the jack plates in a previous repair job. And whatever the part that the kidney bowl attaches to is toast. I was thinking it would be best to remove the outer and inner rockers, blast and epoxy just for good measure. What's misleading to me is that every other repair is a total hack job (I busted the rear seat repair out with a few whacks of a hammer, no cutting) but the outer rocker is rock solid. As far as I can tell I need to cut it and buy new rockers. Sigh.

Today has been very long, I worked on my car for at least twelve hours and now I must sleep.

[SCadaddle]

I would advise you to measure the total width of your old outer rocker panel while it is still in place and compare to the replacements you are going to use before going further. You can accomplish this with a wooden paint stick notched at one end to fit against the inner edge where you have drilled the spot welds and a drafting triangle held against the lower edge of the paint stick and mark the stick where the edge of the triangle touches the outer edge of the rocker---which is the point your door should meet flush. Make the same measurements on the replacement outer rockers.

I say this because in replacing the rockers on my 69 912, I had 2 options. Option 1 was to use a new old stock pair of Porsche rockers but weld up all the deco trim holes. Option 2 was the Restoration Design panels and not have to weld up the deco trim holes as there weren't any. I went with option 2. The rockers are now on the car and although the vertical gap with the door and rocker is nice, the doors--which were not removed from the car in the process---are about 1/4" outside of the edge of the rocker. You're not going to be able to simply bondo that 1/4". I've seen it on other cars and it will just start to separate. I'm still scratching my head on how to overcome this issue. And yes, after all was said and done, I found the missing 1/4 inch using the paint stick and triangle method on the new old stock Porsche rockers. Don't let this happen to you!

[Puma]

Originally Posted by SCadaddle

I would advise you to measure the total width of your old outer rocker panel while it is still in place and compare to the replacements you are going to use before going further. You can accomplish this with a wooden paint stick notched at one end to fit against the inner edge where you have drilled the spot welds and a drafting triangle held against the lower edge of the paint stick and mark the stick where the edge of the triangle touches the outer edge of the rocker---which is the point your door should meet flush. Make the same measurements on the replacement outer rockers.

I say this because in replacing the rockers on my 69 912, I had 2 options. Option 1 was to use a new old stock pair of Porsche rockers but weld up all the deco trim holes. Option 2 was the Restoration Design panels and not have to weld up the deco trim holes as there weren't any. I went with option 2. The rockers are now on the car and although the vertical gap with the door and rocker is nice, the doors--which were not removed from the car in the process---are about 1/4" outside of the edge of the rocker. You're not going to be able to simply bondo that 1/4". I've seen it on other cars and it will just start to separate. I'm still scratching my head on how to overcome this issue. And yes, after all was said and done, I found the missing 1/4 inch using the paint stick and triangle method on the new old stock Porsche rockers. Don't let this happen to you!

Excellent advice, thank you!

[jpnovak]

The top seam has both vertical seam welds (which you drilled) and horizontal seam welds which you may have not. Look down from the top and you will find them.

They are also welded on the lower seam, rear perimeter overlapping the kidney bowl and the front fender vertical support panel.

Make sure you get them all or they will not come off. You may have to use a chisel to split the seam.

[Puma]

Originally Posted by jpnovak

The top seam has both vertical seam welds (which you drilled) and horizontal seam welds which you may have not. Look down from the top and you will find them.

They are also welded on the lower seam, rear perimeter overlapping the kidney bowl and the front fender vertical support panel.

Make sure you get them all or they will not come off. You may have to use a chisel to split the seam.

I read your thread more than once, so thanks for taking the time to write that up. Also, I really like your oil cooler solution and I'm thinking of stealing that idea. To be honest I've been going back through all of your threads 'cause knowledge is good.

When you cut your old rocker at the lower edge of the seam I understand, what I don't get is when you reinstall won't the left over metal push the rocker outward, resulting in misalignment, rocker pushing out too far? Maybe it isn't enough to matter?

[jpnovak]

I ground down the seam to remove the remains. Once the rocker is removed you have plenty of access to clean it all up.

[Porboynz]

I ran an air chisel the length of the rocker then used grips to tear away the metal that was left along the top edge where the spot welds are. (like a can opener rolling the metal around the grips) Then grind the surface flat. Even though you have drilled the welds the spots are not perfectly circular and anyway you do not want to drill enormous holes that you later have to weld up again.