Door window frames
 

Hi All!
I have quite successfully removed the 80s upgrade with black paint on my door window frames. My goal is to polish them.

As there are some pits and scratches I'm wondering how much you see of them from the outside and inside once the trim and seals are in place.

I have searched the www for close up pics with no luck.

Could anyone provide some for me?

Thanks in advance,
Jörgen Forssling
SWEDEN

Oh yes, it is a 71 911T ;)

//Jörgen

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469793152.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1469793077.jpg

Thanks, that helped a lot! How does the lower part of the fixed vent window look from the inside? Do you see all of the frame or just the upper part as from the outside?

//Jörgen

Door window frames polishing/anodizing
 

Hi again!
What do you think about polishing as compared to the original anodizing? I'm not sure I'm able to get anodizing here in Sweden so thats why I'm heading towards polishing.

Will this be OK? Will it last?

Thanks for any input.

Jörgen Forssling
SWEDEN

In order to anodize the frames, you will have to polish them first. To polish them, you will need to remove the original anodizing.

Clear anodizing over polished aluminum gives a slightly less bright and shiny look. It is similar to what a polished part looks like after it has oxidized somewhat.

If you polish the frames and don't anodize them, you'll have to lightly polish them again periodically (mabe every year, or two) to keep them looking nice.

Restoring a set of these frames is very expensive, especially if you have nobody in Sweden that can do it and you have to ship them out of the country.

JR

Thanks for your reply!
I have de-chromed parts before, can you remove the anodization the same way? Or do you have to remove it mechanically?

And do wax help with keeping the polished aluminium fresh if I don't anodize?

All the best,
Jörgen

You can strip the anodizing with chemicals. If you search on Google, you can learn how to do it. Waxing the trim may help a little bit but I would just polish the trim by hand periodically.

JR

I also went through this a couple years ago. In the end I decided to polish vs anodize. This decision at the time was mostly based on the cost of bright anodizing, finding a company to do it, and the time it would take for them to return the parts.

Overall I was very happy with my results but you have to put in the time with the prep work to get it to turn our right. De-anodizing is nasty, all the wet sanding with progressively finer sand paper, and then the polish. Its a ton or work but didnt really cost me much in materials other than time.

Lastly, if you have deep scratches or pitting from media blasting(prior to black paint) its nearly impossible to get a mirror or like new finish. This would be true regardless of polishing or bright dip anodizing.

Thanks for your input! I don't mind putting in the time, just want to make sure I don't do anything stupid.

//Jörgen

I have tried with Mr Muscle oven cleaner but it did not work. Maybe the stuff we have in Sweden is not that potent as in the US?

Do you have any other suggestions removing the anodizing?

Thanks for any input!

Jörgen
SWEDEN

I have used drain cleaner, but it has to be the most potent, Grease and hair dissolving type of drain cleaner.

Thanks, what is the active substance I should look for? And if there is any % to avoid damaging the aluminium.

Cheers,
Jörgen

Lye removes anodizing.

Without damaging the underlaying aluminium?

Regards,
Jörgen

Whatever you use, you need to test it first. I've never stripped Porsche window frames but I have stripped other parts. There are a number of different aluminum alloys, each of which use different other metals as alloying elements. I can tell you that not all alloys react in the same way, so test it in a small area first.

In the US, people often use Easy-Off oven cleaner, the one in the yellow-topped can.

There are internet forums devoted to metal finishing; you may want to research this question there instead, as they have forum members that do this sort of work for a living.

JR

I used Drano crystals and it seemed to work really good. the easy off oven stuff didnt seem to really work quickly for me. I found several videos on youtube that showed the process. You just need a large plastic tub, fill half of it with water and dump a good amount of the crystals in it. Put the parts in and let them soak until the anodize is gone. Obviously use gloves and a breathing mask because this stuff is nasty

https://www.amazon.com/Drano-Professional-Strength-Kitchen-Crystals/dp/B005BTL2FM

BTW, make sure you get 100% of the paint off because this will not dissolve paint and the anodize will remain underneath.

The active ingredient to remove anodizing is sodium hydroxide. But be very careful, it is very caustic and can burn your skin and eyes. Use protective gloves and eyewear. I anodize and strip anodizing for my fly fishing reel business. Always test first, the sodium hydroxide can actually etch away the aluminum - and I DO mean etch it completely away so that it no longer exists. Especially be careful if the channel area has not been anodized. If not, you need to protect it some way. A thin coat of paint will do the trick and can be removed easily afterwards.

For a protectant after polishing, I always use Renaissance Wax on my aluminum reel parts. It will keep the shine for years even with daily handling and weather exposure.

Thanks for all input!

Jörgen

For coating the polished frames some restoration shops here in CA are using high gloss clear ceramic coating rather than re-anodizing the parts.

It has proven very similar in appearance and should be durable.

Cooper