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Mighty Meatlocker Turbo
 
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JJ, I've also wondered about the water absorption bit, and have checked a few times and don't see any.

I utilize my local hardware store as often as I can, too (not talking about big box places). One place you could go to by long strand muffler packing locally is a motorcycle shop - especially an independant that does work like re-packing dirt bike mufflers and so forth.

Karl will not mind space hogging one bit - he's used to having his threads filled with banter and random metalhead videos (among other jackassery).

Last edited by Rawknees'Turbo; 07-11-2018 at 08:32 PM..
Old 07-11-2018, 08:26 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #361 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
Great to see gorilla-me helping you spend your money, Bro!!!
Perhaps we should flip that pancake RonO... as in my turn to spend your $$$$$s Trip to Norway. Tall blondes. Cold martoonies. Deep fjords.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kuehl View Post
I recall opening up an old OEM unit we took off a client's car and the desiccant was a solid mass.

So to answer your question, does it filter? Yes, to a point. There is no stated maximum particle size or volume of debris.

There have been 'filters' on the market for some time which can be inserted in the suction port of the compressor (unfortunately they are simply thimble shaped metal screens and the opening in their grids is kinda big).
Interesting perspective... "solid mass." Am azzuming that results from excessive moisture absorption. Could that be an "invisible" vent temp killer?---from restricted refrig flow?

We had threaded discussion about inline filters years ago. I got unit like one below during that dialogue. Discussion ended with inline filter gizmo being of no practical use. Filter I got is now in bad idea bin.




Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeffries View Post
Karl, do you intend on surrounding your beautiful new evaporator with insulation, as per Rawknee's best practice? John/CT
Yeah JJ... Exterior of naked plenum & blower top in my latitude gets dripping wet if not insulated. As I see it, that's energy lost. How much energy is questionable. If even a few -degrees can be sent to cabin... seems worth it. Last insul I did was with standard AC stuff. (No foam chit RonO!) AC stuff is supremely BAD IDEA. Is messy to install---fibers get all over---and even worse when removing it---comes out in pieces so no recycling. Complete waste of time this stuff is...






Below... insul that's heading in this go round. Cloth fibered. Backed on both sides. Easy to cut and doesn't fall apart. Cut ends cannot be exposed to water---stuff sponges water. Am thinking it will work in smugglers box without needing to seal material's open ends. Will put test piece in with install that can be easily removed... will cut it open to see if ambient humidity is being absorbed excessively.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
JJ, KinkyKarl has been chasing my hot weather vent temp azz for many years, so you can bet your buttocks that he will be insulating his evaporator housing/smuggler's box.
Dry heat vs. constant humidity --- In your desert... you beat me from get go RonO. Might be interesting to see how far evap could be pushed here in swampland before icing renders it useless. (Is very appealing experiment for next project. Will TXV allow it? Yours obviously allows your evap to drop below freezing.)
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:55 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #362 (permalink)
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Karl, with that stuff in your last photo (foil-backed), you could close up the open seams with foil tape, making it (sort of) moisture proof, right? Does Griffiths sell any evap wrapping kits? Maybe that's The Next Big Thing....like turbo blankets? John
Old 07-12-2018, 06:39 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #363 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeffries View Post
Karl, with that stuff in your last photo (foil-backed), you could close up the open seams with foil tape, making it (sort of) moisture proof, right? Does Griffiths sell any evap wrapping kits? Maybe that's The Next Big Thing....like turbo blankets? John
Foil tape is one approach JJ. Here's another... PlastiDip...






Evap wrapping kit. Might have something there JJ. Am not aware of a Kuehl product in that vein. Will have to see if Charlie comments on this.


.
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Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2, '79 Anthracite 930
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:57 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #364 (permalink)
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That's some excellent lateral thinking with the Plasti-Dip.
Old 07-12-2018, 09:22 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #365 (permalink)
The Mighty Pieholio
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawknees'Turbo View Post
Griff, I hear that Bobasaurous has several canes to choose from now - wonder which one is the fines detecting unit?!?!
I said cans, not canes.

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Old 07-12-2018, 11:43 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #366 (permalink)
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Karl,

The first issue with putting a layer of anything on the evap box is
is the limited space in some sections of the smugglers box well.
Ideally, when you assemble the box with evap, the lower case
halve goes in the well first, then evap, then the box top.
To insure you have the 'ease' to do R&R procedures with the box
in the well, it might be easier to build your insulation covering
in two pieces. A lower section the bottom evap box halve
slips into (the pants), and an upper section that covers the upper
box halve (the shirt). What ever you do you want the design to
allow you to access the flat perimeter shelf of the upper box halve
that surrounds the circumference where the blower motor and
where are; for example you might want to insert a probe in
any of the 4 corners to check the evap core temperature, or you might
want to easily remove the upper box halve to service the blower motor.
Maybe a velcro approach or similar novelty to secure the pants and shirt.

The second issue, or challenge in insulating the evap box, is the
minimum thickness of materials that offer a reasonable R value.
Take a look at some new but not a new idea "aerogel" materials
such as, for example, Cabot's Thermal Wrap 3.5 mm thick blankets.
Pricey stuff however probably the highest R value per mm and allows
for breath-ability. You don't want to end up, again, with the black mold
forest due to your high humidity location.
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Old 07-12-2018, 05:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #367 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Kontak View Post
I said cans...
+1 on canning it Bobr!


Quote:
Originally Posted by kuehl View Post
Karl,

The first issue with putting a layer of anything on the evap box is
is the limited space in some sections of the smugglers box well.
Ideally, when you assemble the box with evap, the lower case
halve goes in the well first, then evap, then the box top.
To insure you have the 'ease' to do R&R procedures with the box
in the well, it might be easier to build your insulation covering
in two pieces. A lower section the bottom evap box halve
slips into (the pants), and an upper section that covers the upper
box halve (the shirt). What ever you do you want the design to
allow you to access the flat perimeter shelf of the upper box halve
that surrounds the circumference where the blower motor and
where are; for example you might want to insert a probe in
any of the 4 corners to check the evap core temperature, or you might
want to easily remove the upper box halve to service the blower motor.
Maybe a velcro approach or similar novelty to secure the pants and shirt.

The second issue, or challenge in insulating the evap box, is the
minimum thickness of materials that offer a reasonable R value.
Take a look at some new but not a new idea "aerogel" materials
such as, for example, Cabot's Thermal Wrap 3.5 mm thick blankets.
Pricey stuff however probably the highest R value per mm and allows
for breath-ability. You don't want to end up, again, with the black mold
forest due to your high humidity location.
Pants & shirt program---fine outfitting idea Charlie. Looked at Aerogel product line---good selection of insulation media. I bought variety of insul for Air Bucket build. Lots of surplus of all sorts on hand. Thinking something in that hoarding will offer a reusable pant & shirt outfit. Tailoring is planned for this afternoon.
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Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2, '79 Anthracite 930
Prior: '74 Carrera. '79 Silver 930. '79 Black 930.
Old 07-13-2018, 06:27 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #368 (permalink)
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Pants & shirt...




Pants are permanent. Self adhesive rubber base with closed-cell bubble material is used. (Is threshold sealer.) Single layer at this stage. Adding another...



Easy to cut and work with.




Adhesive is killer sticky---removal is not in plan… ever.




Fiber’d insulation… cutting it with even sharpest Xacto is not easy. Xacto blades are being gobbled up here. Were I doing this again, would try neoprene---wet suit material. Think neoprene cutting & assembly would be much easier. Everything would glue with neoprene. What’s going on here requires placing a lot of metal tape. Inside corners are getting gel epoxy rather than metal tape. Veryvery time consuming. Like to consider myself patient but this one's got me unraveling.








Testing shirt’s install & removal with outlet duct on. Works OK here. Fresh air handling box’s drain hose (that runs down at rear of smuggler’s cavity) may not be friendly to getting shirt on & off. Get to that later.




To install shirt when evap’s connected… shirt must have an open loop to get around evap’s plumbing. Another open loop is needed at blower’s outlet/duct. (There is no stretch in this shirt at all.)




… Could “hard wire” shirt onto evap box---seems mistake even thinking in this vein. Velcro is possibility. Spring-clip is another. Tested clip and it works well for application but version in hand is too small---not easy to handle. Cord on one side and strap on other… also not appealing. Hunt for beefier version with flat straps on both clip ends is on.

Got evap box---top and bottom---you don't want? I'll buy. Want in better condition than mine. No breaks / cracks... already have those! Obviously want same box model I'm working with. No rush. Want as back up. PM me.

.
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Current: '80 Silver Targa w /'85 3.2, '79 Anthracite 930
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:34 AM
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There was a chap selling a box top with Kuehl Hurricane motor on PP board over the weekend.
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1987 911 cab, modified
https://griffiths.com/
Old 07-16-2018, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuehl View Post
There was a chap selling a box top with Kuehl Hurricane motor on PP board over the weekend.
Thanks Charlie. Found listing. He's missing bottom.

How does Hurricane motor compare to stock version?
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Old 07-16-2018, 09:36 AM
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Buy the box top with the motor already in it,
you will be glad you did.
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1987 911 cab, modified
https://griffiths.com/
Old 07-16-2018, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuehl View Post
Buy the box top with the motor already in it,
you will be glad you did.
What about bottom?
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Prior: '74 Carrera. '79 Silver 930. '79 Black 930.
Old 07-18-2018, 01:13 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #373 (permalink)
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Did test fit into smugglers. There’s less space than I recall. Relying on “recall” = idiot move. Slip on/off shirt is not happening after blower-top is installed---not enough space. Now, shirt goes on blower-top and together they install. Pants are good.




Snugging-up shirt’s bottom perimeter with some type of fastener… not needed. Is snug enough. Moreso once installed in smugglers.




Inlet (seen here) and outlet---on my blower-top---are very poorly aligned---outlet sits too far to driver’s side. Miss-alignment here means flexi-duct needs to kink some when installed. Am going to ease sharpness of kink by shortening intake.




About 1” is off inlet. Dremel with saw blade used. Cut is inside-out.




Duct has double layer of rubber & bubble insulation (pants material.) Here, duct is attached to inlet. Getting duct onto outlet… not happening. To raise duct, have started to cut insulation off top of duct---bad move in progress. Xacto is put away.




Have yanked all insulation on duct off---by hand. Good move made was leaving majority of backing on rubber-bubble insulation in place. Were this not done, removal would have been unpleasant. Can now see space between duct and smuggler’s rim---there is none. (My plenum sits on slight cushion---raising plenum slightly.) Can insulate duct later.






Knowing what I know now, would I repeat shirt & pants production as done here? Pants yes. Insulation type used there = no-brainer. Shirt… no. Would do toga shirt---as in wrap and stuff material of appropriate kind onto and around plenum so it makes for good insul. End result is likely to be same with far less time invested and simpler on/off.

Is it worth experimenting and failing to know empirically what works and what doesn’t? TETO. What’s understood from this “experiment” is 7/16” thick insulation makes for an ungainly thick shirt---there’s no slipping it easily on/off when blower-top's installed. 3/16” material might prove otherwise. One challenge in hand = shirt gotta be skin tight IMHO. Much time is given to tailoring process to achieve this. Working with near-bullet-proof stranded fiber adds nicely to slowing progress. You might be thinking… why not use same pants material for shirt?…a genuine matching top & bottom ensemble like RonO always wears . Excellent idea---would be much easier & quicker to apply self adhesive bits to blower’s top. Thought about this… butts... gravitated to slip on/off shirt due to my blower-top requiring ongoing mods (to keep it in service.) In my case: permanent shirt would inevitably get in the way.

.
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Old 07-18-2018, 01:56 PM
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Sometimes you can't simply insulate the entire object with the same thickness material, and maybe you insulate part of it.

Although we have never insulated our boxes, I guess in your trial something is better than nothing.

If you lots of spare time on your hands you could try insulating all the air tubes from the evap outlet right up to the vents.
In my case, for this section, I simply insulated the entire area behind the dash from the trunk side.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:44 PM
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Fascinating...seriously! John
Old 07-18-2018, 03:17 PM
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