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Do 911's use more rear brake than front for stopping?
I was checking my rotor temps the other day because I have a humming noise when I slow down or come to a slow rolling stop that I thought might be a brake that was grabbing. My front temps were 116 and my rear were 126 which made me wonder if Porsche used more rear brake than front or if I have a problem I should be looking for.
BTW, I'm thinking wheel bearing installation is on my short list of things I'll be replacing. I think I have the humming sound narrowed down to that. You hear a hum and feel a very slight vibration when it occurs. Thanks in advance for any input. |
pretty sure any vehicle moving forward will use more front brake than rear brake. If your rear brake temp is higher it could be due to less efficient cooling or grabbing or any number of reasons. If your brakes are properly adjusted, they should grab evenly front and back
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Make sure parking brake isn't dragging to much.
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The bias is around 62/38 front the rear on a standard set up
116 - I assume Degrees Fahrenheit isn't very hot and the difference between front and rear is likely to be affected by airflow. At higher temperatures you may see a different result and a hard driven car I would expect rotor temps to be at least 3-400 degF. In the extreme on a hard driven rally car with the right pads discs will glow red hot. |
I would also check for sticking caliper pistons as this causes the pads to drag on the rotors and THAT will account for higher rotor temps.
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What year is your car?
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For those implying stuck calipers, they would have to be stuck very evenly since both fronts were the exact same temp and both rears were the exact same temp. I think the brakes are likely working as they should. My lines are SS braided. |
Us 3.2's have a proportioning valve in the frunk inline to the the rears. If anything, if that leaks, you will have less braking all around.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1216740803.jpg You may want to consider rebuilding the caliper seals and check condition of the pistons, if pitted it could be sticking. BTW they are 42MM and NLA in the US. Must get from UK, a member here Chris Seven makes titanium coated ones or SS from Bigg Reds. Very reasonable including shipping. Mine are pitted and not holding pressure well at all, Swapped front pistons, totally changed my braking. 3 out of 4 were pitted and leaking. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...ps6lq09p84.jpg Lesson here is changed brake fluid regularly. |
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Things that can cause any rotor to run warmer than usual are frozen pistons, internally swollen lines, different pads, time related heating/cooling curves for different rotor sizes |
My rear pads definitely wear out faster if that means anything...
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I go through the rears at almost a 2 to 1 ratio on my 87 911 track car. It seems that the Carreras wear our rears faster especially on the track for most people I've talked to
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The pad area will have a significant impact on wear rates and you can be certain that any road car has a front brake bias as this will provide much more stability than a rear bias. |
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We have been using Pagid Black on the rear for a few years now and they wear and stop just fine. Also, we use Raybestos 43 on the front . . . along with slotted rotors. Regards, |
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^^^ if you do not mind the race car squeel.
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I thought you might be using stock pads . . . and my thought was that you will need to test some different pads to see what works for you . . . Regards, |
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Regards, |
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How do the raybestos compare to PFC? I just bought this set of 08 but I might give those a try as they are priced better next time around |
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