HELP - '73 911 Door Latch Broken

[RSBob]

Locked the car at the stereo shop. Checked out some speakers, came out and found the driver's side outside latch lever hiding in the door handle. Came in through the other side and the door won't unlock, or open from inside either. Any BTDT? What piece/s need to be replaced, and any tips on pulling the door panel with a seat partially in the way?

You help is greatly appreciated,

[marc weintraub]

Hi Bob,

I have a 73 also and although this never happened to me, I have removed the panels and replaced many of the pieces. OK... if you move your seat all the way to the back, you can (if you have both door pockets still on it) unscrew the pockets and remove them. There is one really pesky one on the front pocket closest to the front of the back (larger) pocket you will then have to remove the arm rest and that screw is underneath on the bottom of the rest. There is another one, but it is very obvious. You will have to disconnect a plastic ball/socket that actuates the door handle. This is what sounds like it went bad. If you have the window crank as opposed to electric windows, remove the screw on the crank and pull it off.

At this point, if I remember correctly (I am doing this from memory) everything should be off of the door. Take something flat and slowly pry the door panel away from the door. The attachments are very simple and it does sound like the plastic ball/socket part went bad.

Please contact me if I can be of any help. I have tons of parts laying around for 73 cars and ironically, I have a door handle with a good ball/socket laying around in my mess.

Hope this helps...

Marc

[RSBob]

Marc,

Thanks for the reply. I did a test run on the door which opens, but couldn't figure out where the bolt was securing the back piece of the front pocket to the frame. I was able to pry enough of the door panel to try to take a look at the mechanisms, that's when the arm which attaches the interior lock to a pivoting mechanism, at the back of the door fell off. After figuring out the PO had it on backwards and the little plastic piece which fits into this mechanism (sleave with probably a hole in it for the curved piece of the arm to secure) was missing. I faked it out by placing some foam against the inside of the door to keep the arm's hook in the pivot. The missing part is speculation at this point - since I am going to tear into the other side and see what it has. I will keep you posted - but if you know how to remove the back part of the front pocket from the door, that would help.

Regards,

[marc weintraub]

Hi Bob,

That was the one fastener I was afraid you would have a problem with. Here's the deal with that...it is a blind nut... I think it was a 10mm one and I got it with a closed ended wrench. A socket will not work... at least I couldn't get it to work, but I was able to do it with the wrench. you can also try an open ended adjectable wrench, but this is a very hard one to get to.

Put your hand on it and it will be very obvious to you. I wish I had pictures of it to show you, but that is the last piece holding the front pocket on the door before you get to unscrew the four screws at the bottom hinge.

When you get it off, follow the line form the door to the handle and make sure it is still attached. this mechanism goes all the way to the inner door and could have just been disconnected when you shut the door.

Let me know.

Marc

[stew]

just removed drivers side sat to put on rs door panels. you can reach that 10mm nut with a1/4 drive socket and ratchet. reach in with your hand and locate it.

[RSBob]

Mi Marc,

So the blind nut is on the inside of the sheet metal? Can't get to the 4 bottom screws of the back pocket because it hits the sill - also the arm rest appears to be riveted in one place in the back (removed the 2 allen bolts so the rest of it is free. Wondering if I should just get a pry bar, since I can't reach it with a drill. Isn' the front pocket attached to the bottom of door frame by rivets? Also is the inside sheet metal piece smaller than the door where it touches the door frame? This is key, because, even if I get the other pieces off, I will be stuck.

Appreciate the help,
Bob

[RSBob]

SUCCESS!!! The blind nut was the key to getting the panel off. All Ihad to do was get the wires off the window switches and boom, it just about fell off. I reached in by the door latch and flipped a "Y" shaped lever/pivot and it unlatched the door and the dam thing opened. Years of accumulated grit must have gummed up everything - because there were no broken parts or anything lying in the door. (the door latch was always sticky and turning the key to open the door was tough). I WD-40'd the holly begeeberz out of all the moving parts, cleaned what I could reach and shot in more. Now the latches, key turning the tumbler, works like new. Fantastic. And cosidering it was just grunge (Seattle you know), it would have been two hours labor at the shop - and now I can install a new door shield (plastic sheet) and can finally clean-up and fix the pockets. Thank you Marc for the great advice and hanging in there with me. (Now all I need is a PC in the garage).

Gracias amigo,

[marc weintraub]

Hi Bob,

I was going nuts last night trying to find any drawings or pictures I might have had to send to you, but I couldn't find a thing. I am so glad you got past that one nut. That had me confused the first time I had to remove the door panel, but I kept feeling around back there and found it.

Good job! Some the simplest looking jobs on early cars can end up taking the most time. Glad I could be of help. If you need help with anything else on your car, feel free to email me. I've owned 8 early ones and I have pulled too many things off of them.

All The Best,

marc