DIY Questions: Rear Shock Replacement and CV Joint Issue
 

Hi Guys. I'm in the middle of a few maintenance projects on my 82SC and had a couple of questions. I'm replacing the rear shocks and was wondering how you keep the upper shock sleeve from rotating while you loosen the top nut? Also, how the hell do you access the passenger side top nut?
While I was poking around under the car I discovered that my inner CV boot had come loose and there was a healthy splattering of bearing grease around the area. Should I be concerned about this (see pic below) other than to fix the boot back in to place assuming it is not torn. I also assume I would need to pack some more grease in there. Thx for any advice.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1471757598.jpg
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That boot needs to be replaced, not just put back in. You do need to remove it from the car, clean it up, replace the boot, repack the grease and clean up the starter.

Depending on your type of shock, there is either a recess for an allen key, or flat edges for a small wrench to keep the shaft from turning while you use a larger wrench to turn the nut. Access to the passenger side can be gotten by removing enough stuff on the top of the engine to reach back with the wrenches and do it by feel.

Hi 997AT.

I have an 89 but recently did these jobs.

To stop the outer shaft of the rear shock from rotating, I either used my hand while I undid the shock nut up top with a socket wrench (this was hard and felt like I was bear hugging the car), or a channel lock wrench to hold it steady. I like this guy's solution for this issue if you have the equipment for it: Porsche 911 Rear Shock Remove And Replace | RVB Precision

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1471779897.jpg

For the passenger shock nut, I had to take out my entire air filter and MAF metal box assembly to get to it. I know your engine is different - you may have to take out your giant airbox thing (?) to get to yours.

With that much grease gone on the CV joint, I would be thinking about a wholesale replacement of the inner joint or the axle. When I got my car from my dad a couple of years ago, his inner boot was torn, but without that much grease splatter. I had no idea how long it had been like that. Given that Dad hadn't replaced spark plugs or tuned it up in 20 yrs, I figured it had been a while, & elected to replace the whole axle. If you don't know how long yours has been like that you might consider the same.

Cheers and good luck,
Frank

You could do it this way but there is a reason there is an allen hole at the top of the rear shock. You will most likely have to remove multiple components in order to make enough room for access in there.
As far as the boot it concerned, looking at the photo, you can see the clamp is still intact on the mounting plate to the gear box, I suspect the boot is completely split around the entire CV. Unless you are hearing a clicking or grinding noise as the axle shaft rotates, you probably will be okay just replacing new boots. The will definitely be the cheaper route and if you decide the is the best option for you, do yourself and your car a huge favor, buy the correct pliers that are required for getting the clamp as tight as humanly possible. regular pliers will not crimp the band clamp tight enough to keep the boot on and protecting the CV. If you decide going after the axle shaft is your better choice, you will not have to worry about that because they come as a complete unit which really becomes bolt off, bolt back on.

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll be tackling the shocks today and then start clean up on the CV joint. It does look like the inner section of the boot tore completely around the flange. If I elect to replace just the boot I notice it comes as a unit with the flange so the inner boot clamp is already in place. Would I need the "special tool" to tighten a clamp on the shaft end? Also, can the inner boot be replaced without disconnecting the outer CV joint? I also see that a complete axle can be had for not too much more than a boot and the tool, but this is not a genuine Porsche part. Porsche wants $1100 for a complete axle. Is there that much of a difference in quality and fit?

This, plus my complete lack of knowledge in how to disassemble and reassemble a CV joint, was what led to me just replacing the whole axle. I bought a GKN Loebro for mine for less than 300. GKN I believe was/is OEM supplier to Porsche. Mine fit perfectly. Have had no issues installed 9mos ago or so.

+1

I think of the countless hours on the bench trying to get the new CV joint to fit. Fit meaning so the balls do not bind.

It's my hobby, but man, there needs to be a limit. On CV was under $100 from Pelican but 12 years ago.

Disgusting, greasy job. Old grease, new grease, everywhere grease.

If you go through all the trouble of getting the axle shaft out to replace one boot, replace both. Believe me, you'll be under the car one day and see the outer is tearing...think about how bad that will make you feel knowing that you will have to go through that all over again. If you are doing one side, you might as well do both sides.

A $30 crimp pliers, $10 boot kit, and $10 tub of grease are a hell of a lot cheaper than a full axle.

Agreed, but I had no idea what to do with those items, and no confidence in self that Self could take it apart & put it back together right, or if the CV joint with ripped boot had been damaged with dirt/debris (not knowing what damage looks like in a CV joint). And no time either (2 boys under 7), excepting the hour to myself I maybe get in a day from 9pm-10pm when boys fall asleep. It became a time-value of money issue for me: spend 10 hours on such a project incl learning time & maybe not have it done right after all that, or get a new pre-assembled axle knowing it's done right after just 2 hours?

A very fair and valid point about lack of time. I can totally respect that. But don't sell yourself short. I had never done this type of work before either when I discovered my torn boot and grease spattered all over my starter. With the help of people and posts on this forum I removed my cv joint, cleaned it, inspected it, took pics asking for opinions on reuse or replace based on wear, and went for it. Repacked the joint, packed it with new grease, and assembled it (no grease on threads is one of the biggest things to look out for). Torque to factory specs, check torque after a couple hundred miles.

Trust me - if I can do it, you can do it.

Its a greasy job either way. The horrible part doesn't go away with new hardware.
The disassembly/assembly of a cv-joint is a 5 minute job when you understand how it goes together.